I got a quick response from VelocityAP late yesterday. Apparently you have to trim the locator tabs on the the green connectors (under the intake manifolds) and connect. (NOT the clips that hold it in place, just the locator tabs.
I'm traveling this week so it will be another week or so before I make any progress. Too bad so many hours were wasted on this!! (I suggested that they post a video, include instructions, etc.. for the next DIY'er.)

Jim

 

Well...DUHHH! Of course you gotta trim the tab! (kidding).. You've got a set of brass ones dude! I have taken on a lot (I thought), but this has been the one I have been afraid to move forward with. I would LOVE a set of those headers and we all know that it's something that can't be ignored very long. This project should be considered a TSB regarding the V12 cars. It's like the clock ticking for a belt change on an early Ferrari. Living dangerously every time ya fire it up. I'd love to come down and see the finished project. Congrats on having the courage to bite this off!

 

@speedracer800 , you are welcome to come visit ANYTIME! I'm a believer that this is an issue to be dealt with at some point for every DB9 owner. It is a BIG project but most of the difficulty so far lies in access to the vital organs. Everything is very tightly packaged in these cars as you well know.

Jim

 

Some progress made tonight......

I forgot to order the wiring harness cover that sits above the manifolds. https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/part-finder/astonmartin/db9/oe/151/668/23906?h=181500
When I disassembled the OEM's the tabs broke apart by just breathing on them! VERY Brittle. I was worried that I would not be able to access them without removing the intake manifolds, but I have plenty of room to get them in with the headers in place.
Once I figured that out, I set the headers in place and finger tightened all the nuts. The new headers leave very little space on a couple of the nuts to get a socket of any type on them. It's going to be a challenge to get all 12 per side torqued down to spec, but that is tomorrows challenge!

 

Big progress tonight......

As I posted earlier in this thread, 2 of the frame bolts snapped on removal. They were in the same location on the R & L sides. We began on the right side of the car and step-drilled out the old bolt and re-tapped the threads. On the left side, we step-drilled out the old bolt and the threads came out in pieces. Once we got to the maximum sized bit I ran the tap straight up and cleaned out the old thread debris. 2.5 hrs for the right side and about 35 minutes for the left.

Tomorrow will be all about securing the headers and beginning the process of putting everything back together.

Jim

 

Jim, I understood that the original manifolds could more easily be removed if you cut them up in a couple of smaller chunks to allow for the pieces to pass down through the cross member, and then lowering the sub frame/cross member to remove wouldn't be necessary? Do you think that is accurate? Would you need to drop it regardless to acquire the room needed to tighten the new headers?

You've inspired me to take this on over the winter months. There's not much value to the original manifolds beyond the scrap value of the primary cats, so if cutting them to save a bunch of hours of work is possible.. Why not?

 

@speedracer800 Unfortunately, that would not be possible. You'll need the subframe out of the way to do your install work. Cutting things up would be a MAJOR PITA as well and I would not want to run the risk of damaging things by cutting either by torch or tool. Either remove the subframe or do what @GB9Garage is doing and drop the engine/torque tube/rear frame off the body. The subframe is not really difficult if you have a 2Post lift. (I'll loan you the screw jack and 10x10 piece of white oak to support the engine!)
The WSM recommends removing the steering shaft.....you DO NOT need to do that. Once the subframe is out, you'll have plenty of space to work. The only (minor) issue is that you have to step around/over it as you work but that is a non-issue for me.

My Wife asked me why I didn't start this project in Nov/Dec......I waited until VelocityAP had their annual sale around Xmas to save some $$$. (Every bit helps!). By the time they processed the orders, it was late Feb/early March before everything arrived. FYI....

Jim

 

This is awesome. I would love to hear a sound clip.

I dropped the subframe also to get my manifolds out and installed. Completed Headers, 200 cell cats, xpipe, and found a Vantage S backbox. Although I was debating a VAP Xpipe Back box. Curious to hear this on the V12.

 

I'm anticipating having the Headers back together this weekend. Not sure I'll get it started as Im waiting on some heat wrap for the O2 Sensor wires. You have to get creative in routing the wire extensions for the 02 Sensors. . (How did you handle that @V8Vdrew?)

Sound clip will be coming for sure!

Jim

 

Nice work tackling this project on your own! Looking forward to hearing how it sounds. I have the same vap setup on my dbs (minus their new style muffler) and have now paired with 6 different setups (quicksilver muffler, old version vap muffler, oem dbs muffler, oem dbs muffler plus x pipe mid section, muffler delete with the x pipe, quicksilver muffler with x pipe mid section) and have landed on keeping it with oem dbs muffler with the x pipe mid section (with a cc charger valve remote). The others were either too loud or too quiet, look forward to hearing how you make out with this new style muffler

 

Thanks! I"m very excited about it. Hoping to have it all together very soon!

As I asked above, how did you handle the O2 sensor extensions? Where did you route them?
Jim

 

I have tried every combination from the headers back I could think of. I had Stuart build me a custom Hpipe (already tried the X pipe) because I was very curious what that would do to the sound.. Long story short.. Sounded EXACTLY the same as the Xpipe. I also had custom silencer delete pipes and a custom dual silencer set up. FYI.. Lots of this stuff still in boxes laying around here if anyone wants a screaming deal.

Settled on a modified Tubi back box with straight pipes. I then built my own remote controlled bypass set up fit to the Tubi box. I was able to use the OEM vacuum set up to activate the aftermarket valves and I was FINALLY "satisfied" with the sound.

I'm so glad you have shared the details of the header install experience with all of us Jim! you're thread has giving me the little nudge I need. This is just something I know I can't "not" have. This is also one of a few modifications that will "feel good" and be good for you! (failing OEM primary cat time bomb). I'm going to do it!

I have this new single post lift that's been really fantastic. Do you think it would work in place of the 2 post lift you used? The supports in the photo are not necessary, as I just use them to help with any unnerving bounce that may occur with the car way up there. This thing is rated at 6600 pounds and amazingly secure.

Please let me know when you get your car finished and I'll cruise down to you with my new Ferrari 458. I'd love to hear that bad boy man!
Forgive me for blowing up your thread.. I'm excited for you and I think those headers are going to be a real game changer in sound and performance.




The area where the yellow line passes was the portion I built and added to completely bypass the muffler / "silencer" (whatever utilizing the OEM vacuum system that operates the OEM valves via a remote control set up I worked out.

 

I’m not sure unfortunately as I had a shop install the headers and secondary cats.

 

Things never seem to qo quite as easy as we envision them. It appears that the 200 Cell Cats from VelocityAP are a bit too short for the stock set up. I left them a message last week to see if perhaps I've been sent the wrong ones or if I'm missing something here since there are no notes/instructions of any kind.
On the positive side, the headers are bolted in and I'll be putting the subframe back in place shortly so I can begin to address the timing cover leak.

Jim

 

A buddy who has a machine shop swung over today and we looked closely at this. The gap as it stands is .875in on both sides. I can take up about 1/2 that in the slack that is in the exhaust pipes back to the muffler just in the play that is in there. He is going to fabricate 2 spacers that will fill this void and we should be good to go.

The sub-frame is back in place and I"ll start connecting the suspension bits back up tomorrow.