I'm having an issue starting my 2013 V8V. A few symptoms:

• The starter has had a few problems turning, but up until this time has other otherwise started without issues especially after running for a while.
• At times the brake pedal has to be pressed very hard in order to start the car. That is currently occurring.
• The electrics do seem to be working and I've tried using a job pack. Also, I don't hear clicking when starting the car, but I do hear a bit of a hum. I can record the sound if needed.
• Strangely, and probably unrelated, opening the hood requires effort when using the interior latch. I have to pull up slightly on the front of the hood, then I can pull the latch. Even there, the click is very soft, which isn't typical.

Given these issues, I'm thinking the issue is either the starter motor, the cable leading to it, or something with the brake pedal. The brake pedal issue is typically inconsistent. My previous V8V would also at times have the issue with the brake pedal and it would be more difficult to start then as well.

First, is the brake pedal issue normal, or regardless of this, is a repair needed?
Second, if the car requires a new starter motor, are there good aftermarket motors that are drop in replacements? I'm seeing motors online (including one from Bosch) that seem to have the same overall configuration, but I'd like guidance as to what to get and feed to a mechanic I know.

Thanks

 

First thing, try a new battery How old is it? Multiple electrical issues can be directly related to the battery

 

I should mention that I've already ruled out the battery. I tried a jump pack and that didn't help, and in addition I had AAA come with their own jump battery and that didn't get it started. AAA had their battery tried hooking it up directly at the battery and at the jump points under the hood. I did just find something interesting out, and that is that to hook up a voltmeter to the jump points under the hood. It came back with 0 volts. I may need to do more to make the connectors work properly, but I'm doubtful. I'm wondering if there's a separation to the cables somewhere related to that. I did check the 25A fuse already and that still looks good. I should probably pull the fuse again and see if power is getting through there.

 

I'm with MRCW on this. Batteries and Astons use of them are finicky,,,, very! After I determined it's age I would have the battery tested under normal conditions and under a load. Many places test batteries free. One bad/weak cell is too many. If the battery check outs, then I might rule out the battery, Now look at connections. Do you live in a place where corrosion is a problem? So many variables, was the car stored, if so, how long, was it on a tender? Is the card driven weekly, monthly ? If the battery is over 2 years old I consider changing the battery anyway to make sure the source of the cars power is within spec's and stable. Did this starting issue slowly begin to happen slowly or did it happen all at once?

 

This does seem like three separate issues.

Regarding the starter, check the electrical connections at the starter. Another AM owner recently was ready to replace the starter owing to poor starting when they noticed the nut had fallen off, or never been installed, where the positive terminal is on the starter. Cleanup of the terminal and one nut later, problem solved.

You might just get that lucky.

Re the hard brake press required to start. Are you ever in the habit of testing the pedal before starting? I had a similar issue when I had done a brake fluid flush and with the engine off I was pumping the brakes hard to check for any weeping fluid at the nipples.

Shortly afterwards, I could not get the car to start. Alarmed, I tried a few things. The solution was to press really hard on the brakes while pressing in the ‘key’. Pumping up the brakes had altered the activation force required for the force-on-brake permission to enable start. Just a thought.

Philip

 

Brake pedal switch adjustment can be critical, you shouldn't have to press hard on the brake to start. Slowly press the brake pedal and watch for the brake lamps to illuminate in the rear view mirror with something behind you to see the reflection. Pedal should only have a few mm of travel to light up.

 

FWIW, on my DB9 I found the power lead connections to the starter motor had corrosion.

Additionally, and this was "key", the ground strap connections from the motor to the frame had corrosion. For the DB9 this return (negative/ground) lead comes from the torque tube to the frame on the RH side of the torque tube near the tube/motor mating surface. Made for weird electrical issues as everything "worked" but didn't work well. A long jumper lead from directly from the battery to the engine which made all my problems go away confirmed what I needed to fix.

There is a galvanic reaction between aluminum and steel which is why they recommend stainless steel bolts. I like to cover my electrical connections with dielectric grease to keep the air out, but I suspect it doesn't last long under the car!

 

I once had a 6-speed car with a finicky neutral safety switch - making it tough to start. I'd guess that's the most likely issue here - in your case the brake switch.

 

I had this problem. It was my floor mat interfering with the brake being depressed intermittently. Felt like an idiot after figuring it out...

 

So it turns out the issue is actually the clutch. Somehow this has also caused the oil to leak out. Anyway, given this, I'm looking for a good place to replace the clutch or preferably replace the clutch plate if only that is needed. I'd like any suggestions for places in Charlotte, Greenville, SC, or possibly Knoxville, TN or Columbia, SC. I've talked to a friend at the Aston Martin dealership in Charlotte and he gave a quote, but along with it insisted I go elsewhere. He didn't have any recommendations. Also, if anyone has any recommendations for 3rd party clutches and clutch plates, that would be awesome!

Thanks

 

Velocity ap for the clutch…

 

When the mechanic looked at the car, he noticed that the transmission fluid had all leaked out and that the oil canister was empty as well. The latter seems odd to me. The last time I drove the car, the car didn't show any warning lights at all and I'd driven it about a week before.

I have a crazy neighbor and I can't rule out her involvement as I've seen intentional damage to the drivers side door latch. I don't have a usable garage as the driveway that leads to it had a tall and steep curb cut and it would beach the car and the driveway is actually my neighbors up to a point.