Newer style seats retrofit
#1
Newer style seats retrofit
I have seats from a 2009 vantage. Looking to retrofit into a 2006 db9. I have removed the original to match up with the newer ones. It’s the same 4 electronic connections on both new and old. But the internals appear to be much different. Even the rails are different. So my question is if anyone knows if it will be a problem fitting these in. Will they need some coding or something to work. I’m going to attempt to install the new one and see how it goes.
Tan is old red is new. Pics attached.
Tan is old red is new. Pics attached.
#2
Where did you get those seats from? Be aware that there are several ebay sellers parting out flood salvaged Astons. From the look of the rust on the red seat, I'd say you got them one of those flooded cars. *Always* double check VINs from ebay listings when dealing with electronic modules. I got burned a few months ago on a used door module from ebay. I doubt the modules in those seats will function at all. If they do, they will most certainly require coding with AMDS to function.
#5
Passengers seat on the 2009 will have weight and position sensors for Passengers Airbag strategy, the SRS module may not recognize this so that function could bring up a light or simply not function.
#6
I found a single ebay seller with chancellor red door cards for sale that happened to also be a 2009 vantage. The VIN they list has water/flood as it's primary damage from what I could find. @trainwreck , Hopefully you got your seats from another seller or you're able to swap your existing frame/electronics to the seats. I'm not sure how compatible the old/new seats are.
#7
Or you can test the motors function by plugging the seat in.
The rear tilting has its motor inside the rear part - so check if that works before bolting things down.
To unbolt the base its best to have the seat in the high position, then you can access the rear bolts best.
You can see the bolt holes in the pic below.
Last edited by TR-Spider; 07-19-2024 at 04:32 PM.
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#8
I had to disassemble the entire seat. I’m going to attempt swapping in my original base/rail and harness. Having trouble getting to the air bag connection in the vantage seat tho. Any idea how to take apart the seat back. The base is pretty much apart had to take the leather off to get to the bolts that hold the rail in. Not a job for the faint of heart I’ll tell ya.
#9
From what I can remember it unclips from the bottom of the rear squab and pulls upwards, I left it attached to the airbag. there is a zip in the gap under the headrest to allow you to pull the head rest part off. It comes off quite easily.
The solenoids and wiring for the seat back release is in there - if you wouldn't mind sending me a picture of the solenoids as mine didn't have any solenoids nor wiring for heaters, back release or lumbar support, got the heating an d lumbar sorted easily enough but and I couldn't find any information on the solenoids so added my own but not really strong enough.
The solenoids and wiring for the seat back release is in there - if you wouldn't mind sending me a picture of the solenoids as mine didn't have any solenoids nor wiring for heaters, back release or lumbar support, got the heating an d lumbar sorted easily enough but and I couldn't find any information on the solenoids so added my own but not really strong enough.
#11
Got the cushion separated from the squab. Can’t figure how to remove the leather from the squab. I found the zipper under the headrest but can’t seem to figure where it begins or ends. Even with the previous pics posted.
Last edited by trainwreck; 07-22-2024 at 03:42 PM.
#12
The zipper goes all the way round-and was a real PITA to open and close again according to my upholsterer...
However, do you really need to remove it? if you just roll the leather upwards, you can access all the internals.
However, do you really need to remove it? if you just roll the leather upwards, you can access all the internals.
#15
Ok managed to get the squab opened up. Still a pita. But thanks to Paul from the uk. I was able to dive into it and get some of the leather up. Again not for the faint of heart. The map pockets are attached with 2 plastic clips and double sided tape. The side bolsters wrap around and are tucked in nicely and tight. So you have to dig them out. Almost seems like you’ll do some damage. Pics attached for anyone in the future needing this help.