can you give details on how you did it?
remove exhaust pipes?
how removed the crimp fittings, etc
thanks

 

Tools/Supplies:
11-inch side cutters (Snap-On)
Shop lamp (Harbor freight)
Drain pan (Amazon)
Brake clean (BMW)
4 ramps (Harbor freight)
2 jacks (Harbor freight - Daytona Rapid pump)
3/8 Sockets (Milwaukee)
1/4 inch sockets (Milwaukee)
1/4 inch hex impact driver with 3/8 adapter (Milwaukee)
New hoses and clamps (https://www.sequparts.com/product-ca...ge-sportshift/)
4 wheel chocks (Amazon)
Harbor freight hand pump (Orange set)
3 bottles of CHF 11S Long-Life Synthetic Hydraulic Fluid (Amazon)
Scan tool optional (Foxwell diag)


Steps:
1. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Jack the front up evenly with a jack on the front passenger and front driver side. Go back and forth to both jacks and do a few pumps on each side. Do not jack up the car from only one point (officially from Aston-the car must be jacked up evenly)
1a. Set the front wheels down on the ramps (One ramp facing forward and one facing the rear, this way the car cannot move in either direction. This is not required but added piece of mind being under the car)

2. Place wheel chocks behind each front wheel on the ramps. Jack the rear up evenly with a jack on the rear passenger and rear driver side. Go back and forth to both jacks and do a few pumps each side. Do not jack up the car from one point (officially from Aston-the car must be jacked up evenly)
2a. Set the rear wheels down on the ramps (One ramp facing forward and one facing the rear, this way the car cannot move is either direction. This is not required but added piece of mind being under the car) Put the rear wheel chocks back behind the wheels on the ramps.

3. Remove rear under shield (recommended: clean the bolts on a wire wheel before reinstalling if they appear crusty)I used my impact to save time but I'm sure the neighbors didn't enjoy that at 1am

4. Locate all 4 ends of the hoses and begin on the bottom line (the most straight hose) Place your drain pan under the hose you are about the work on. Cut both clamps off with sharp side cutters. I used a new Snap-On set. Remove hose and set aside. Most of the fluid will drain out.

5. Use the 11 inch side cutters to carefully reach up to the top most clamp and cut it (It takes longer if you have dull cutters or weak fingers because with how far up the clamp is, you don't have much handle length left on the cutters to squeeze.

6. Place new hoses in place for a dry fit, then begin tightening the clamps, I did the hard to reach ones first to get them out of the way. (Do not over tighten them, these are metal clamps tightening on plastic, you can crack the reservoir which will cost over $300 in the part alone.

7. Fill the reservoir with CHF 11S until full and replace cap, then either start the car or use a scan tool to initiate a bleed procedure. If using the car running method, only open the bleed screw for a second and close it then check the reservoir, it drains quickly using this method. Fill as needed and bleed it again then check the level and replace the cap.

8. Clean everything with brake clean that got dirty and wipe dirt as necessary.

9. Reinstall rear under shield.

10. Lower the back of the car first and put the wheel chocks back behind the rear wheels.

11. Lower the front of the car, Done. If your car leaks like mine did, you filled the reservoir too much. Just clean the mess, check the level and don't stress.


Notes:
Do not remove the exhaust
Do not lower the transmission
Do not remove the rear subframe support bar, just work around it

 

much appreciated!
so there was room for the side cutters for the top connections...
and the exhaust did not prevent the job
did you use all 3 bottles?
did you use a scan tool to bleed?

 

Yes there is just enough room to get the cutters up top, but make sure you have new if not almost new cutters. The exhaust was annoying but I worked around it. You can fit both arms around it (like a bear hug). I used 2 bottles but it's always good to have an extra since my local stores don't carry any. I could not get my scan tool to actually bleed it. I heard the pump activate but nothing came out so I just started the car instead and bled it for a split second at a time.

I actually just finished changing the transmission fluid, it's a good idea to do it at the same time if you're under there and going through all this on the garage floor like me. For the trans you need a new o'ring for the filter and two washers. One for the fill plug and one for the drain plug. Redpants sells a kit but rarely does he have things in stock so I grabbed the part numbers and bought them elsewhere.
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NO sh*t!