Year: 2001
Make: Porsche
Model: 911
Price: $69911
Mileage: 82911
Color: black
Private or Dealer Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): OH
Transmission: Manual
Drivetrain: 4WD & AWD

Up for sale is my clean title in hand 2001 Porsche 911 turbo / 6speed in Black/Black with 82,750 miles. The vin is WP0AB29991S686122. I have owned this car since April 4th, 2014 and has been an awesome experience but the time has come to move onto something else. This was my first Porsche and I’ve owned a dozen others since, so I’m very familiar with the brand and this platform. I bought the car near bone stock so all modifications have gone through me. I’m very detail oriented when it comes to my cars, and hope this FS ad gives the car proper justice, and to be very honest about the condition of the car.

























If you want the cliff notes, the car is a violently fast 996 turbo, making 800+ awhp, ready for track or street, turns heads everywhere, and is extremely sorted with lots of extra goodies. The car has a built engine (which was NOT cheap) so the next owner can rest assured they are not on the limit of the edge for safety. It has upgraded turbos, can run e85 or 93, and lots of suspension / brake / chassis upgrades throughout. The car has been garage kept since i’ve owned it, and in 6 years of ownership i’ve driven it less than 20,000 miles. If you are looking for a quiet, show car with some bolt ons, stop reading; this car is not for you. If you want a visceral analog driving experience, and are ok with stiff suspension / loud noises from turbos and exhaust, then keep reading. If you want MUCH more information, keep scrolling down.



My goal of this extremely detailed FS add, is so that anyone could purchase the car sight unseen and feel comfortable and confident that they know what they are getting into. I’ve purchased many cars sight unseen so I know the questions I would want to ask, so I’m just going to give you all of that information before you need to ask it. I’m an honest seller, so i’ll try to paint the car in an accurate light and represent it as it sits today…with the good, bad, and ugly (there really isn’t any ugly, but the car isn’t 100% perfect either). I’m going to break down the car into sections so it’s easier to digest the modifications and story of each. Strap in, here is everything I know about the car.



Engine / Transmission:

This is where I’ve spent most of my time, energy, and effort. If something popped up, was worn or needed, it was replaced immediately. This includes random 02 sensors, cam sensors, plugs, etc. The engine was built by Turn In Concepts in 2014-2015. There are many special tools and parts required to build, so it took about a year to build. The cost of the build was similar to the original price of the car and guaranteed to make you sick.

The car received a built engine in 2015 (at 69,500 miles) with upgraded rods, headstuds, head porting, and tons of new factory parts. A core engine was purchased, built, and later mine was removed (and sold) for the newer built engine. Larger turbos, improved intercoolers and all the accompanying mods were done at that time. The car was dyno’d in 2015 at 740 on 20psi with an older fuel system with e85 (and now since, older turbos). It has a 93 map, but the car lives on e85, and the 93 map is just used in case I get stuck out of town on a cruise, or to cycle through the winter. On 93 it easily made 600awhp (it can probably make more). Since then, the fuel system has been upgraded to dual walbro 485’s and the car lives around 25psi, which is easily over the 800 mark. At 30 PSI, the car is terrifying and requires R comp tires to hookup, even in AWD. I haven’t taken it to the dyno since. The car was originally built to do 1000whp, but after learning that i’d need to convert to RWD for the 1000whp mark, we stopped there (and let’s face it…I like my AWD for turbo cars). The car has been tuned by Johnson Tuning it’s entire life, and the car is smooth…until the boost kicks in. The coolant lines have been pinned and anytime a maintenance issue pops up it has been addressed. I have a gallery of images for the engine build here: https://dankinziephotography.smugmug.com/996-Turbo-Build-Pictures/n-hkRNpC

• Built Engine
  • Pauter Rods $2000
  • Head Porting and machining $1000
  • OEM piston rings and engine gasket set / headgaskets $1000
  • evoMS 10mm Headstuds $1000
  • Pinned coolant lines $500
  • Timing chain, valves, valve seals, spring set, retainers, rod bearings, thrust bearing, tensioners, ring gear etc $2000
  • Machining / Balancing / Assembly / Removal / Installation / Labor $30,000
• Precision 5558 Turbos $2000
• evoMS Intercoolers + 2.5″ silicone coupers + t bolts $2500
• evoMS headers $2000
• Tial BOV’s $500
• Tial 38mm External Wastegates w/ dumptubes $600
• Custom 3” resonated x-pipe exhaust $2000
• DRIVEN Y-pipe $500
• 1300CC ID injectors $1000 (cleaned 4/2021)
• Custom Dual Walbro 485 fuel pumps in basket w/ hobbs switch (can run 100% e85) $1000
• -6 AN Fuel lines $500
• Aeromotive Fuel Filter $150
• CSF Radiators / new lines / o-rings / flush $1000
• Cobb Access port with e85 / track / and 93 tunes $1000
• Johnson Tuning / Mafless / Filters on turbos $1000
• New 02 sensors
• New Beru 997 coil packs
• New plugs
• All new vacuum lines
• New checkvalve on plenum
• Tons of regular maintenance items replaced (starter, alternator, belts, etc)
• Mobil 1 0w-40 (street)
• Mobil 1 15w-50 (track)

*In April of 2021, I wanted more response and faster spooling so sold the previous turbos and upgraded some components. I haven’t had the car on the dyno, but expect it to be around 750-900awhp with much faster response and spool. These following mods were done at mileage 81,850. As of 10/14/2021, the e85 tune is complete and runs extremely smooth with very good idle / cold start properties. I am working with Corbin at Johnson Tuning currently to finalize the 93 tune as I realize the next owner may not have e85 everywhere around them.

• EFR 6758 Turbos w/ Porsche housings from SRM $5000
• Tial MVI 2.5 Internal Wastegate upgrades $400
• Water Line Kit $300
• Ported OEM Exhaust Manifolds $200
• New Oil Lines / Check Valves $200
• New 3″ resonated x pipe with anti-drone tubes + black tips from Lewis Speed Innovations$2000
• SRM Boost hoses $300
• K&N 3800rx filters $150
• Water Shields $100
• All new Vacuum lines
• New 3 port boost controller
• Cleaned Injectors
• 10m microglass fuel filter insert (better e85 filtering)
• Tial BOV blockoff plates (EFR turbos use internal diverter valves)
• Boost test confirmed no leaks which means almost instant turbo response (extremely important on these turbo engines).

CLIFFS: Built engine, refreshed OEM parts, Pauter rods, 10mm evoMS headstuds, EFR turbos, all supporting mods, plenty of fuel, e85 and 93 capable.









The dyno sheet listed below was from the old Precision 5558 turbos and made 743 on e85 on an old fuel setup at 22psi. A new fuel system was upgraded (what’s in the car currently) and we were able to run up to 30psi. The tuner’s virtual dyno (I know, I know, but was similar to the real dyno) estimated to have the power around 900-950. EFR turbo setup has not been dyno tuned yet, but at current 29psi levels he expects around 850-900.









Pinned and JB welded coolant lines are already completed. If you are shopping for a 996 or 997 turbo, please ensure this one simple maintenance mod is done, or it can cost you an engine. If this is new to you, feel free to google it, but the cliff notes are Porsche used a glue substance to hold these in place. After so many cycles the glue fails and these slip out and leak dumping coolant out of your engine at a rapid pace and all over the back tires (yikes). Some people have had these fail at 30,000 miles, while others have had no failures over 100,000 miles. It is a great safety net, and is an engine out process ($200 part, $2500 labor) to have this task completed.







These were the old ARP headstuds on the right which are prone to slip, so I upgraded to these evoMS headstuds after the initial build. You can see they have more threads, and have more grip / clamping force, so are extra safe. The evoMS 10mm are the best headstuds on the market without tapping and drilling the block for their upgraded 12mm setup. The 12mm setup is suggested for setups well over 1000whp, and the 10mm headstuds are good up to around 1200whp.







Old precision 5558 turbos shown below





New EFR turbos installed with oil lines and water lines as well as Lewis Speed Innovation catless 3″ resonated x pipe with anti-drone tubes.





















Exterior:



The car turns heads everywhere it goes, and is in classic black/black with carbon fiber accents. The car gets a yearly detail and has been garaged ever since I’ve owned it. It never sees snow / winter weather, I have a truck for those duties. The car was most recently corrected / detailed and ceramic coated in late 2019 with Cquartz UK and is routinely kept up with regular 2bucket washes and bead maker. Water runs off effortlessly with an air dryer and barely needs a drying towel. It has an aero kit front lip, carbon fiber dive plans (from Joe Toth), carbon fiber mirror caps, carbon fiber turbo vents, and a carbon fiber gt2 spoiler. The carbon on black is sleek but extremely sexy. The hood of the car looks to have been repainted before I purchased it and shows some light tiger striping under certain conditions, other times it’s unnoticeable. The front fenders do have some marks on them, so wouldn’t pass as a show car but from 5 feet isn’t noticeable. The passenger side fender does show some hazing on the top of the fender. The car cleans up extremely well but if you were a paint snob you would notice it once you start detailing. For the car to be perfect i’d recommend a front end re-spray or wrap (both i’ve considered) but it just hasn’t bothered me enough to go down that path. There is a ding in the roof somehow, a mark on the rear fender. I’ve taken detailed images of the car from multiple angles to show it’s true condition. The car has been tracked so does have some tire markings from the last event (since it’s been corrected and coated) but the car will receive another detail before it goes to it’s new owner…just realize pics may show some tire rubber that will come off with clay. The front radiator brackets have been modified with additional brackets to be able to run a 275 front tire *18×10 if desired…this was NOT an easy task! The rear wiper was removed many years ago (and the motor) and plugged for a cleaner look. Tailights were smoked by a professional auto body paint using 10% black paint / 90% clear. They look as good as the day I had them done. The sidemarkers were done darker, though headlights were left alone. The spoiler is fixed and locked into place though if removed can be lowered or changed. I haven’t been to the dealer yet to program it to tell the car it has a fixed spoiler so it will show a message when you hit 72 mph. A click of the stalk will make it go away. I have a gallery detailed images as the car sits, some exhaust videos, track videos, and more here : https://dankinziephotography.smugmug...96-FS/n-SfSgPZ





MODS:

• Aero front lip $100
• Carbon Fiber dive planes $300
• Carbon Fiber Turbo Vents $1000
• Carbon Fiber mirror caps $300
• Carbon Fiber gt2 spoiler $2000
• Rear wiper delete
• Smoke tailights / side markers $200
• LED front bumper lights
• Rolled Fenders $200
• Radiator Bracket mod (to run wider front fenders)
• Fixed rear spoiler $100

*As of 4/2021, the car was repolished with Essence Plus to rejuvinate the coating, and CarPro Reload was applied.



CLIFFS: Shines up incredibly well, ceramic coated, carbon fiber goodies, but shows some age, as it is an 01.





















Suspension / Brakes:

The car received a suspension overhaul in 2019 when I started doing HPDE events. Fortune Auto 510 coilovers with 8/12k rates were installed which have jekyll / hyde type personality. On full soft it’s a hair stiffer than stock but can be cranked up for terrorizing back roads or track days. Eibach sway bars, thrust arm bushings, extended wheel studs, elephant racing lockout tabs, and an aggressive alignment makes this car stick like glue, especially on R comps. I typically run Michelins on the street and NT01 on the track. After picking up my 997 and 991, I felt what it was like to have better brakes so I focused some attention there. Upgrader/bigger 350mm rotors were added which helped with pedal feel and bite, but the GT3 master cylinder was a HUGE improvement…though tripped the ABS/PSM lights. Through the help of some friends, we were able to determine that one of the lines was bigger, so a proportioning valve was added which fixes this. This kit was made by a friend and I and sold to many in the 996 turbo market…one of my favorite mods! Carbotech XP12 pads are on the car currently which have a TON of bite and are amazing on the track, though they will squeal and dust on the street. Since I have other cars, this was a small price to pay. If you buy the car you’re welcome to put on some OEM/textar pads and get rid of the squeel and still have aggressive / upgrades braking. Stainless steel lines were added, and some of the factory hard lines looked a little sketch, so I replaced them and flushed the system with Castrol SRF. The front calipers showed age (when photographed) and were recently powdercoated acid green. (This was done in the winter so no pro-photos yet). An AP roll cage was added to the car with new gold hardware and powdercoated in a ruby red color. This helps stiffen the chassis of the car dramatically. Wheels currently on the car are volk te37 in staggered 19” on Michelin’s, though I will only be selling those if the asking price is paid. Since I’ve sold a car or two, I understand the desire to get the best price for a car, and for me, finding these rare wheels in a Porsche fitment would be an easy way to haggle with someone on price. If the asking price is not met, I’ll be selling the car on 3 piece 18” Forgeline wheels powdered in a two tone blue color wearing Nitto NT01 tires. The car has also worn 18” apex wheels with NT01s as well as 19” 997 carerra 2 wheels on Michelins.



Suspension MODS:

• Fortune Auto 510 Coilovers 8k/12k rates w/ Hyperco spring upgrade $2500
• Adjustable front end links $200
• Eibach front and rear sway bars $500
• Track ready alignment (-2.8 F / -1.8 R, 0 toe) $200
• Torque Solution thrust arm bushings $200
• Elephant Racing Eccentric lockout tabs $100
• Extended wheel studs $150 (ECS pictured, were updated to RennLine in 2021)
• Agency Roll Cage $1500
• New wheel hub, wheel bearing, lower control arms
• Axle boots replaced (both front sides) $1000

Brake MODS:

• 350mm brake rotor upgrade all around $800
• Carbotech XP12 pads $500
• Stainless steel brake lines $200
• Replaced hard brake lines $100
• GT3 Master Cylinder $100
• GT3 brake ducts $100
• Custom Proportioning valve to keep ABS/PSM $200
• Castrol SRF fluid $100
• Acid Green Powder Coating / rebuild / c5 wheel armor $600

*As of 4/2021, the brakes were rebuilt and powdercoated AcidGreen then coated with c5 wheel armor coating. The Volk te37s were coated in CQuartz UK 3.0 The wheel bearing was replaced on the drivers side as well as a newer lower control arm.



CLIFFS: Coilovers, sway bars, roll cage, stiff enough for the street, can be stiffened down more for the track, grips road like crazy, some nice brake upgrades help pedal feel, fade, and bite.

































Interior:

Let’s face it, nobody buys a 996 for it’s interior but I’ve tried to enhance it as best I can. I should start by saying the AC and heat work great, in fact everything in the car works as it should (windows, sunroof tilt and slide, buttons, defrost, etc.) Most of the interior is function over form, but it still isn’t hateful. The carbon fiber steering wheel is probably my favorite addition as you’re always touching the wheel and it just has a great shape and feel. The surround / trim of the steering wheel was originally tan, so I painted it black and (now years later) there are some pieces of tan showing through. A dye job would solve this, and would be a great winter project. An extremely important tool to this car is the innovate ethanol / boost gauge which was added to constantly monitor boost (requires an additional 3 bar map sensor, since the factory Porsche one is only 2 bar) values in realtime, peak boost values, a shift light at your designated PSI, ethanol content, and AFR. The GM ethanol content analyzer is used to read ethanol content in real time and is plumbed in the frunk off the return line of the fuel system. The cobb access port stays plugged in to monitor AFR’s, IAT’s and any other essentials. A Radenso XP radar detector is hardwired with a mute switch (from escort, LOL) and is mounted under the stereo. In the cubby hole is a switch for the laser interceptor laser jammers as well as a green LED that’s tied to the hobbs switch for the 2nd Walbro 485 fuel pump. I’ve never had an issue, but it’s nice to know that the second fuel pump is kicking on for safety. I added Corbeau RRB seats, brackets and sliders, and opted for the heated seat option for both seats because why not. The switches are mounted under the radio to turn them on and off. I’m a stocky 200 pounds, 5’7, and wear a 34×30 in jeans, and these hug me nicely. If you’re a 300+ pound 6’5 dude, you may want to swap seats to something more comfortable, though most of my friends who are bigger than me they hold just fine. They do recline and are adjustable, but have great bolstering. I’ve driven multiple hours in these and are extremely comfortable, yet tight enough for the track. The previous owner added a custom 12” sub enclosure in the rear which is quite nice, as well as amps in the frunk for the speakers and the sub, as well as upgraded speakers. Not that it’s my thing, but the car does sound good. It had a super cheap headunit in it when I purchased it, so I put in a Sony Carplay doubledin which is a great sounding headunit, has a backup camera, etc. (Some pics show an older alpine single din unit, which has been upgraded to the Sony). A carbon fiber wrap was applied to a lot of interior parts which could stand to be re-done but I’m rarely looking at the interior in this thing so just haven’t gotten around to it. There is a bubble in the wrap on the main center console, though if I kept the car I think I would just have all of the interior trim pieces painted black. An AP roll cage was added and definitely helps in the twisties, though the rear seats / belts are still there. The cage does stiffen the chassis up, and vibrations and noises are a side result (google NVH). I do not have the factory front seats. A part of the dashboard is starting to bubble up near the front of the windshield, and a new windshield / seal was replaced in late 2019 due to a spreading rock chip. I really enjoyed the shifter in my 997s so I installed a a 997 OEM shifter as well. Shifting is crisp, has (what I consider to be) zero slop in each gear, and is a pleasant shifting experience. The car previously had an aftermarket short shifter and it made it difficult to know which gear you were in, the OEM 997 shifter is a great upgrade in my opinion.

• Carbon Fiber steering wheel $500
• Innovate boost/ ethanol analyzer gauge / 3bar map sensor ECB-1 $350
• Corbeau RRB heated seats / brackets / rails $1500
• AP roll cage $1500
• Laser interceptor laser jammers $500
• LED for second fuel pump
• Carbon fiber Interior wrap
• Sony AX3000 carplay headunit $400
• 12” subwoofer and custom enclosure $500
• Alpine amps and upgraded speakers $500
• 997 shifter $200
• New Battery at 82,451 5/27/2021

Transmission:

Normally I wouldn’t have a transmission section but there are a few things here that I think are important to note. The first being that this car has NO second gear issue. On many 996 turbo’s, it is common for the 2nd gear to pop out under load (I have a few friends with these cars and all of them have done it). I’m not sure if previous work was done to mine to fix this beforehand but I’ve NEVER (not one single time) had 2nd gear pop out on me, so that’s great. Next, the car has an extremely strong NEW Southbend clutch (installed at 76,555 miles) and single mass lightweight flywheel. Southbend, who I can’t say enough great things about, worked with me to make this custom clutch to have a streetable feel while also being strong enough to hold the power. I can get the specs on this if you’d like, but essentially I told them my whp and torque levels and they made me a one off clutch disc and pressure plate. The GT3RS single mass flywher is much lighter than OEM which makes down shifting and rev matching a breeze, though the chatters when in neutral. I also added the BBI gt2 style clutch slave to help modulate the pedal feel and delete the factory setup (which has a variable release point due to the clutch slave/accumulator setup and is super tricky to drive smoothly). This does increase pedal effort a hair, but the gt2 mod is very common on 996 turbos for anyone that knows HOW to drive a stick. There is a clutch stop, which stops the pedal from traveling too far, so please don’t remove this…it is common on high HP / strength clutches. If you don’t run one, you can over extend the clutch slave and destroy the clutch (ask me and my $3,000 how I know). I replaced the oem clutch master cylinder, and did a gt3 throwout bearing, gt3 fork tube, and pilot bearing when I was in there, so everything is damn near brand new and no issues. This is not my favorite car to drive in traffic, but on backroads / track / spirited drives the downshifting and rev matching is effortless and the clutch is consistent and strong to hold the power.

• Southbend Clutch $2000
• GT3RS Single mass Flywheel $1100
• BBI GT2 Clutch Slave $1300
• GT3 Clutch master cylinder $300
• GT3 throwout bearing $100
• GT3 clutch guide tube $100
• OEM pilot bearing $100
• RRS Clutch Stop $100
• New OEM Guibo $150

CLIFFS: No trans issues, car shifts smoothly, clutch pedal is strong to hold all the powers, not amazing to drive in traffic, GT3RS SMF is chattery in neutral but helps rev matching and speed.











SUMMARY:

I sadly have over $100,000 in this car (hold your cackling laughs, I know I know) but have truly enjoyed it the past 6 years. I trust that whoever picks this car up will have a blast with this vehicle with many years of enjoyment to come for pennies on the dollar. This car is not for the faint of heart, at the end of the day it’s a very high horsepower 911 turbo, that is very stiff and sticks like glue. It will not drive like a camry, or be silent like a camry. You will hear road noise, you will hear turbos, you will hear EWG’s, BOV’s, and exhaust noises. If those things bother you this is not the car for you. If you want raw power with an analog connection to the road and are ok with a ‘driver’, this car may be for you. I’m happy to take any additional photos or videos for anyone interested, and will work with anyone on shipping or airport arrangements. I’m halfway in between the CVG Cincinnati airport and the DAY Dayton airport, about 40 mins from either.


Engine build pics here: https://dankinziephotography.smugmug...ures/n-hkRNpC/

Glamour shots and track videos here: https://dankinziephotography.smugmug...6-FS/n-SfSgPZ/

Regular shots / progression shots / walk around / cold start videos here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fcsEUSCssdtyS1xk7











The other stuff :

Ok, so is this car perfect? Probably not. Is it an amazing machine that has tons of power, reliability, upgraded suspension / brakes / interior / audio / and everything else? Yes…but it’s still a 2001. All the mechanics are in excellent shape and are ready to go, but there are a few things I’d want someone to be transparent about if I was buying the car from them sight unseen:

• Spoiler light: The hydraulic rams failed many moons ago and the spoiler was converted to a fixed / locked position. The spoiler can be lowered manually (takes two people), but since it doesn’t have the rams, at 72mph the dash will throw a ‘spoiler warning light’. You can pull the stock back and click it one time and it goes away. This can be coded out at the dealer (with a PIWIS), or can swap in a GT2 harness ($100) or can research the micro switches are there are some DIYs to fix that…I just haven’t gotten around to it.
• Paint: There is a very light burn on the clear on the passenger side fender, some rock chips on the front bumper and hood, and a light scuff on the drivers side fender. They are very hard to see, but they are there under close inspection.
• Fender liners: The front fender liners are a little scuffed and beat up. The drivers side is cut to allow for the radiator bracket mod. $100 puts new fender liners in, but you can’t run wider tires with them (nature of the beast on these cars). The car came with 225 tires from the factory, and i’m running 245 on the street and 275 on the track. Fitting 275’s up front was a HARD challenge but very worth it if you are after more performance. On full lock, the back side of the tire rubs in the fender well too, but this only happens if you turn the wheel 100% left or right (basically while parked).
• Clunks: With the car having solid engine mounts, trans mounts, stiff coil overs, and solid thrust arm bushings, the car does make some clunks occasionally. I’ve had it inspected and everything is good to go, but there are still some clunks and noises occasionally. If you hate this, i'd remove the roll cage, I feel like most are from this.
• Door sills: One says Turbo, one says Carerra. They both have CF wrap on them (I know I know), but they don’t match. $100 fix i’m sure, just never bothered me
• Wheel studs are starting to rust, thanks Rennline
• Steering wheel: it was originally tan, and I painted it black a few years ago. It has some paint scuffs so some tan shows through. A great winter project would be to re-paint it or ACTUALLY dye it black.

 

Great well loved car here! great for somebody to get into P car world without waiting and great price! Is the current ECU have the flex fuel (e85/pump) capability or requires a laptop to change parameters?

 

Thank you. I have different maps in the Cobb Access port. It's not 'flex fuel' as the maps don't change based off of octane, but I have a flex fuel monitor to tell you ethanol content. I have a few different e85 maps (low / medium / high boost) and a 93 map. Flashing takes about 30 seconds with the car off, so can be done quickly at gas stations if necessary.

You can see in the top right hand of the innovate guage it shows 83% ethanol (so e83).

 

Thank you that's awesome!

 

Good evening Dan, I am not able to PM yet but would like to get in contact to discuss purchasing the car. If you could PM me your email or phone number that would be great. Thank you.

 

I have a very similar build. Did Todd at Protomotive do your 93 & E85 maps?

I was told not to push past 26psi with the 10mm head studs. I too have upgraded rods, bearings, pistons, studs etc. 26+ you are definitely in the 800+ territory with your mods with a good tune.

 

he can’t pm you either…you are too new to send or receive pm…use visitor messaging…if unsure how check site FAQ’s

 

Ton of car for the money. GLWS!

 

Thank you GT3 Chuck, I left a visitor message.

 

Nope, Corbin at Johnson Tuning. He's been tuning the car since I started modifying it in 2014 and I can't say enough good things about him. There are a ton of tuners out there doing great things and everyone has a different opinion.

My builder suggested stay under 30psi, and i've ran it at 22psi on the old turbo setup for 99% of it's life (Precision 5558s). I'm now on EFRs and have redone the fuel system to handle a bit more headroom. I'm still on Cobb so can't do boost by gear, so 3rd/4th will heat a peak of 29psi, but second or regular driving is usually around 25ish. Everyone has a different opinion on what's safe, and while i've encouraged my tuner to play it OVERLY safe as the build is not cheap, I also didn't put $40k into an engine build to drive it like a grandma. So...it kinda goes both ways.

I know Todd (blackhorse turbo) had Todd (protomotive) build his 996 turbo and he also had the 10mm studs. Todd (protomotive) was never worried about the headstuds stretching but told Todd (BHT) to keep it under 30psi. He ran the car for 5 years and crept it up every year at Texas 2k events doing hundreds and hundreds of pulls and races. He slowly crept it to 35psi for the last 2.5 years and finally lost a rod...but the headstuds were never the issue.

Everyone is going to have a different comfort level on PSI and build. I'm comfortable at 29 peak where real world is in the 25-27 range, but also have maps that run less boost too.

 

Very nice build, and a remarkably thorough ad. GLWS!

Curious about your thoughts/experiences with the FA 510 coilovers. Those aren’t too common, but they’re on my list now that Ohlins are nearly $5k. How’ve they been on the 996?

 

I'd absolutely buy them again... in fact I have a set of the 510's on my 996 turbo, and my 997 c4s... I also just purchased a set of their Muller (touring setup) for the 997 C2 with much softer spring rates but haven't gotten around to installing them. My favorite setup though is the DSC sport controller with PASM and Eibach springs on my 991.

Feel free to PM me and I can give you my number to chat, or read my long review here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-reviewed.html

 

^Good read. Thanks for putting together such a thorough review. I’ll definitely reach out if/when I decide to make the plunge. Im currently torn between these and PSS10’s, which are still reasonably priced for the time being. The digressive pistons and custom spring rates in these are super appealing, compared to the OTS nature of the Bilsteins.

Anyway, I appreciate the response and info!

Sorry for derailing your FS thread. Good luck

 

Sold.

 

Congrats to the new owner! and yes built 996 tt engine is robust and can handle over 30 lbs of boost when tuned right.