I have kept quiet till now but I hate to see others with similar problems. I had major issues with mine as we'll. Box had to come out 3 times to solve it. We had to solve it ourselves with no input from supplier. Lucky I have a switched on mechanic mate that is great with diagnostic. The issue I had was the hub with circa 24fingers was expanding with heat and picking up on the plates. They replaced it with less fingers and a different material hub. I see you had the same hub I had. I believe this could be the same issue. Credit where it is due, they did replace it with different hub and plates within a few weeks but I was out of pocket a lot for the box in and out 3 times and the time to solve their issue.

 

One in my 996 still works on point, after 2 years of abuse. I know ERP constantly updates the design in an effort to make it better, I also know that they never leave anyone high and dry. ERP stands behind their clutches and suspension products. Instead of contacting them right away GT996 chose to bash them for weeks first and than contact ERP asking for help. Smooth move.

 

Pardon? I didn't bash them. I have politely asked for help since this clutch has a good reputation here and this place was the reason why I bought it. I am happy for you if your experience is different, but again: I have a totally different experience for the same money or probably a bit more than you paid and before contacting ERP for a non working clutch I wanted to know what you all say.

In fact I wrote this:

So please, don't put me in a light that I am bashing a product like just for fun. I have what I call a serious problem with the expensive clutch and I think it is legit to name it here, no?

 

You most certainly can "name it here" and ask for help. Thats what the forum is for. I think at one point few pages ago it becomes clear that there is something wrong with your clutch or the way it was installed as Tim said. At which point this thread turned into a complain-train reiteraing the same point over and over and over again instead of an effort to get your clutch inspected and replaced.

I am sure they will help you resolve the issue whether it was their mistake or installer mistake. Get your clutch back to them.

 

I second all that above. The clutch in my car works wonderfully, its modulation is great with only the slightest bit of jutteryness when reversing slowly. The customers I have installed for all love there's too.


The break in proceedure described by some to smooth out operation has never been needed in any of the clutches I have seen. Infact I think it could cause problems. That is because the one area ERP clutch has had some issues is in the contamination from carbon build up. That is the main reasons for several of the redesigns since the clutch came out. What happens is some carbon dust builds up on the splined shaft and stops the floater spindle from traveling 100% smoothly. Then the clutch does not disengauge 100% which causes real quick shifters to miss the odd gear (which could granade a tranny from grinding) and the car becomes hard to get in gear from Neutral while at a stand still, especially when the car is cold! That is usually not an issue right off the bat, it usually developed after several thousand miles after some use in the older versions of the clutch.


Well sorry to hear of your issues GT996 but one thing I have seen from Carey and ERP --> I am sure he will take care of you as he does really stand behind his product.


I am one of the first people on here that started promoting this product and I still think it is one of the best clutches out there for driveability and durability. My 70 year old mom has driven my car and the only thing she complained about is the pedel pressure was to stiff for her liking.

 

You have one hell of a 70 year old mother! My GT2 slave conversion/ ERP clutch setup bruised my 30 year old foot.
Give her Kudos!


Friction point on my 08 turbo is about a 1/2 an inch.


My question is, what is the "on and off" distance that one should expect?


Stock is definitely much more.


Once moving, this clutch is great (i.E. track use.) This clutch feels great once moving. Stop and Go, not so great. I still have a challenge getting the car moving unless I slip the clutch.


"Sayjin" a 6speed 997 member, had stated that slipping this clutch could damage the clutch. I understand carbon but, he was told this from ERP.
Maybe, a new employee that day?


Another member on the 997 forum, slips the hell out of the clutch and absolutely loves it. I am waiting for his removal check point on the disc since the abuse though.

 

My mom is a brave and hearty old bird... She would smack me for calling her that I had her at 170mph for a high speed run last year and all she did was look at me and sternly say "Why are you going so fast".


I would say that the modulation range is normally about 1" of pedel travel for the clutch and stock is about 2". So yes it is less.


You will not hurt the clutch slipping it from the lights during stop and go traffic. It is not like you are sliiping it for long distances with high RPM. Heck the things will even take countless drag launches where you slip it with some RPM. I drive my own car like it is stolen and my clutch has taken all the abuse I have given it --> Not one issue. Early on in its life I had a pedel stop in my car and after some miles were on the clutch it would always drag some while the clutch was cold, that made it hard to get into gear from neutral. I removed my clutch stop and no problem since.


I will say that these clutches are not as plush as stock; especially with a GT2 slave conversion. But a stock clutch just will not stand up to a pumped up engine. It is my opinion there is no better afermarket clutch out there for both ability to take power and feel.


I do believe they guys that have had issues with them are truthful, but I do not know first hand why some people have such issues and most others do not!

 

I had half of that, like elite1 has. If it would have been 1" I probably would have adjusted to the clutch, but 1/2 inch is damn hard to drive in traffic.

I wonder why you have 100% more travel. elite1 has the GT2 mod and I have not. We both have a very high friction point and only 1/2 inch of travel, so what's the difference?

Prodigymb's car doesn't seem to have problems with that clutch, as far as I can tell from the video of his dyno run.

 

send it in, get the latest version and yours will be mint like other. problem solved.

 

so which one did you end up with?

p.s. if you said it and i missed it i apologize.

-Jose

 

Hi,

I went with a 2 disc clutch from 9ff that they build to their specs. 2 980 Nm discs with a floater and LWFW. Really drives like stock. You don't even notice a difference except that the LWFW chatters a little, like they all do. The ERP was worse.

Proven to hold 1400 Nm (1032 ftlb) and my car throws 1000 Nm (737 ftlb) at it all day at only 1.4 bar. I will be raising boost now and torque will climb up. We will see what happens.

I currently have at least 800 Nm (590 ftlb) between 2800 and 6000 rpm with 1000 Nm (737 ftlb) at 4200 rpm. My 62-99.4 mph (100-160 km/h) time in 4th is 2.36s, so the car is moving.

That reminds me that I have that ERP clutch still sitting here. They offered to look at it and update to the latest specs. I should send it now. Thanks for reminding me. I never looked back

Andreas

 

I had an RPS twin disc carbon clutch 12 years ago. The thing was perfect. Much easier to drive than a high clamp load pressure plate on an aggressive disc, and the hotter it got the more it grabbed. I'm not really sure why people are complaining about these now, it is a very well sorted out product. They have been making them for over 15 years. What's the real deal from people running them? The Corvette guys I talk to seem happy too.

 

Not sure how your 12 year old experience relates to what my experience was, but anyways: you want mine? Will go for a reasonable price.

 

You're not the only person in here posting about this. My comments weren't directed at you specifically. Some people seem to have trouble with them, and others don't. Some people say you can slip them a LOT, some people say any slipping will ruin it. That is supposed to be the point of a carbon clutch, tons of slip without hurting the clutch. It's just a lot of conflicting information.

I guess I was thinking out loud as much as anything else - just wondering how this is so complicated. I have had one from the same company (RPS makes them for ERP?) in the past, and it was great. That was the relevance.

I might very well be interested if you want to give me a good price. I was not in the market but you never know.

 

Has anyone tried the twin version? Mine will be in a week or so