Category: Drivetrain
Price: $1299
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Part fits: Porsche 911 996 Turbo, Porsche 911 996 Non-Turbo
Location (State): CA
Item Condition: Brand New
Shipping Information: Item can be shipped

This thing will be gone soon, a lot of guys are gathering funds at the moment and whoever comes up with $$ takes it.

 

I just had a Guard 40/60 installed along with a gearbox cooler. The install for the LSD was right at $700 (not including gearbox removal) and included a few odds and ends like longer diff bolts. It is definitely not a "bolt it in and go" or DIY project as it takes some know how and specialized equipment to properly set it up, adjust backlash, etc. Make sure you find someone that knows what they are doing. It's worth it though...

 

As mentioned in the op, you need longer M8 bolts to install this diff.
There are no other odds and ends for the Carbonetic diff. I don't know about the Guard diff.

The backlash has to be set following general diff adjustment procedure, that procedure has been around since cars started being made (give or take 30 years - only tolerances are specific to each car).

Generally I recommend doing the backlash adjustment, although the Carbonetic diffs I have installed on other vehicles have had perfect tolerance vs the OEM diff and backlash has been perfect using the same shims, after pressing on new bearings. This is increasingly important the higher the power of the car since too much play can give shock effects. Too tight will wear the gear teeth. So adjust according to manual.

If your trans was out and they charged you for $700 for the labor to install the diff you were severly shafted. If it included new bearings, oil and them doing the breaking in procedure that is alright, bc once the trans is out (which is not needed for the diff swap just to clarify), you have a 90 min job for a reasonably efficient amateur to remove the diff lid, grab the diff, move over crown gear, press new bearings on and reinstall and adjust backlash.

It's very very far from rocket science and a good indy Porsche shop should get it done in a forenoon with the gearbox still in the car.

I do not recommend someone to do this diy unless having prior wrenching experience and won't hesitate changing brakes, rotors, exhaust, coil-overs etc. It's 10 times easier than changing a clutch though but if you are concerned going further than changing oil or replacing bulbs, give the job to a shop.

 

I just looked it up. It was $635 for the labor which included having the gearbox and diff sent to one of the local race shops with the proper tools authorized by Matt to install the Guard Club diff. I was fine with that as that seemed fair to me. Maybe the Carbonetic is different and is one of those slap in and go LSDs that can be done in a couple of hours which is great as it will save some money for the install. An authorized Porsche dealer will only do it with the gearbox out of the car, overkill probably.

The following write up was written by "Basic" in following thread, post #9. I would pay attention to the last sentence.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ard-mechs.html

"I installed a LSD in my car last year.

Couple of comments regarding this work.

It can be done with the transmission in the car. You will want to borrow/buy the factory tools VW 521/4 c/w VW 382/10 to do the backlash measurement and the dial gauge mount VW 387, the actual backlash is scribed on the ring gear since they vary to each ring/pinion set. Mine was 0.005" (scribed in mm). Don't bother trying to remove the factory bearing, if you ever need to go back to stock you can just swap it back in.

Procedure I used was to buy two sets of differential bearings, I then ground the inner sleeve of the bearing on my lathe so it would just slip fit on the new diff.
I borrowed the factory tools from a friend who owns a porsche repair shop, along with his assortment of shims (critical to have a large selection).

Remove the factory differential, replace the bearing races and install the new LSD diff (without ring gear), with a 2.5mm worth of shims on each side (you want to ensure a loose fit to measure NO preload). Apply a bit of gear oil to the bearings.

Install the outer cover with ALL bolts torqued down, install a dial gauge to measure preload on the passenger side, place the factory tool inside the diff and tighten to clamp the inner portion of the output shaft on the diff. Zero the dial gauge and push the diff all the way towards the gauge. This number will be how much more shim you need to get to zero preload. Then add an extra 0.40mm for the preload.

Once the preload is figured out you need to then setup the backlash. To do this you install the ring gear from the original diff onto the new LSD. Add all of the shims(required based on the preload measurement above) to passenger side of the diff (between the diff and the bearing, leave the original 2.5mm on the drivers side). This might not work depending on your LSD, basically the idea is to have more space between the ring and pinion so you can begin with too much backlash. DO NOT tighten all cover bolts down if the diff binds as you will side load the pinion. Keep checking that it rotates while tightening down the cover.

Install the diff again and torque down the cover with all bolts. Install the VW 521/4 tool and setup the dial gauge as per the manual (need to adjust the length of the measuring ball on the 382/10 tool to 91mm).

With a wrench on the 521/4 tool rock all the way back and set the zero on the dial gauge, then rock forward and note the backlash. If it is too high then you need to move some shims from the passenger side to the drivers side and repeat. Too low and move the some shims from the driver side to the passenger side. How much to move depends on how out it is, try 1mm at a time till your close. (which is why you need a ton of selection)."

Also why I made my install bearings a tight slip fit, I ended up taking ~15 in/out to get mine right, the last 0.001" was the hardest.

Once the backlash is correct, take diff out and press on new bearing, reinstall and re-check backlash. Mine was exactly the same.

Do not cut corner, this isnt a pickup truck where close is good enough. I set my preload exactly to spec and my backlash as well, car has been on the track 10+ times since and lots of street miles with zero issue. The LSD is probably the best mod I've done to my car.

You can not do this correctly without the factory tool, don't even try. The tool clamps on the output shaft of the diff, if you attempt to do it some other way you will introduce the spider gear lash and your setup will end badly.

 

It really goes w/o saying to use correct torque specs and to set the backlash according to specs as well... Maybe I should have posted that, but it's so obvious that I didn't write it out. Maybe I should have because not everyone thinks the same way. Main point is, the diff goes in the same way an OEM LSD goes in, no modifications or alterations needed, just regular diff install work + 2 x longer flange bolts.

Regardless, the above is excellent diy info, thanks for posting.

 

Hate to ask a noob Q - my 997TT came with the LSD option .. how does this differ and or is better ..2 friends (Orbel and Turbo Mike -both socal) have done this same diff but their cars did not come with the LSD mine did and they love it .. is the stock one weaker ? or is it a whole different concept ?
THX in advance

 

Do a search.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rential-4.html

Where the Carbonetic diff excels vs ALL other traditional metal disc clutch type diffs, is that it has carbon discs instead of metal discs, and carbon gives a higher friction. This means, as posted in the sales post, that the Carbonetic diiff needs lower pre-tension, and with lower pre-tension you get a smoother engagement and less noise in street type of driving, parking etc.

Most metal diffs engage with a kind of "clank" that is extremely annoying while driving at the limit as it comes through as a yank in the car. Metal diffs also tend to make clatter type noise in street type driving, because the pre-tension has to be set high to reach a sufficient lockup ability.

If you set a metal disc pre-tension low to make it more silent, instead it's extremely difficult to reach a high level of lockup, whereas the carbon discs have friction enough to transfer close to 100% of the power to the wheel that still has grip.

In addition, the carbon discs have anywhere between 10-70 times longer life than metal discs. So where with a metal disc diff you need to remove, tear down and service the diff frequently if you track the car a lot, the carbon diff you can run and run and run and run, just being diligent about tranny oil changes.

 

Any further questions just ask.

This got sold but I can hook up another one for a really interested buyer.

 

Hi there

Will these fit a 997.1 C2S 6 speed? Big improvement?

Does this diff work on both acceleration and braking?

 

Yes
Yes
Yes

 

Ygpm

 

Responded to PMs

 

Great pricing on brand new Carbon disc LSD.
It's a must have for 2WD, a great improvement for 4WD.

"Real men don't drive cars without LSD."

 

Couple of things:

First:
I own the same diff in my car and it's night and day difference from open to the Carbonetics unit. Best way to describe for those non track users. My 315's were all over the palace with the open diff, once the diff went in I had stock size rubber and it was hooking up way way nicer and more predictable. Same tire brand so do not blame it on that.

Second:
Mr. White is a stand up guy and sets an example what a perfect 6-speed private seller should be. I purchased form him before and will do it again!

Also, for those with a bit bigger power, this diff holds over 800whp on R compound tires with ease. Good luck.

 

Do u got another one for sale I also need the longer bolt too mr.white shipped to 70560