WTB: internal engine and trans parts
#1
WTB: internal engine and trans parts
Category: Accessories
Price: $4000
Private or Vendor Listing: Private Listing
Location (State): WI
Item Condition: Used
Upgrading the car to 900whp and need some parts to start.
-billet connecting rods
-large plenum, ipd or similar.
-head gaskets
-engine gaskets
-1650cc injectors
Trans parts:
-gt2 main shaft with 1st/second gears.
-1 thru 3 syncros
-2 to 3 slider
-gt2 3rd gear
#3
http://www.ebsracing.com they have a complete gasket oring bearing kit for the 996 turbo. about 1650$
http://www.sillyrabbitmotorsport.com sean has turbos, i/c, fuel systems, 1400cc injectors and 2000 cc injectors fuel rails all built in house.
you likely won't find much in trans parts. they are either in the trans or broken. sun coast porsche can get what you want. be aware the pauter rods will hold up to 1000 hp but after that they don't have a lot of strength in the bolt seat area. carillo or LN engineering for the big hp builds which require oil pump clearancing
http://www.sillyrabbitmotorsport.com sean has turbos, i/c, fuel systems, 1400cc injectors and 2000 cc injectors fuel rails all built in house.
you likely won't find much in trans parts. they are either in the trans or broken. sun coast porsche can get what you want. be aware the pauter rods will hold up to 1000 hp but after that they don't have a lot of strength in the bolt seat area. carillo or LN engineering for the big hp builds which require oil pump clearancing
#4
I bought a set of Pauter, I'm only planning on roughly 900-1000 awhp with E85. From experience with other motors I've built, rod bolt area is not the big concern until your really revving the motor. I have run these rods in a small block Chevy over 8000rpms with 900hp on spray. I realize they are completely different motors, but same principle.
I already have a set of turbos too.
For the most part, I need all the little itty-bitty stuff. I need to see what the hot ticket for main bolts are too, Lol
I already have a set of turbos too.
For the most part, I need all the little itty-bitty stuff. I need to see what the hot ticket for main bolts are too, Lol
#5
I bought a set of Pauter, I'm only planning on roughly 900-1000 awhp with E85. From experience with other motors I've built, rod bolt area is not the big concern until your really revving the motor. I have run these rods in a small block Chevy over 8000rpms with 900hp on spray. I realize they are completely different motors, but same principle.
I already have a set of turbos too.
For the most part, I need all the little itty-bitty stuff. I need to see what the hot ticket for main bolts are too, Lol
I already have a set of turbos too.
For the most part, I need all the little itty-bitty stuff. I need to see what the hot ticket for main bolts are too, Lol
racewear require a retorque after 2 full heat cycles. with these many oring the liners with the 12mm its not needed . fwiw i have the pauter rods as well. the motor made 808 with no issues. if i had a choice i would use carillo but these were in the motor already
#6
I'm sure Pauter will handle much more then you are pushing, I wouldn't even sweat it.
I'm still trying to figure out the whole head studs thing, I'm not sure why these motors seem to have so many problems with head studs. I'm planning to use an mls, I've had great luck with these in the past with other builds.
Did you blow a gasket? Why changing studs?
I'm still trying to figure out the whole head studs thing, I'm not sure why these motors seem to have so many problems with head studs. I'm planning to use an mls, I've had great luck with these in the past with other builds.
Did you blow a gasket? Why changing studs?
i will have a set of racewear head studs coming out soon. going from 10mm to 12mm. sean will measure them and ensure all is good. if you want new the factory is the best price 700$ evoms 12mm are about 2000$ but huge and won't lift. stock torque is 45 ft/lbs racewear go to 60 ft/lbs evoms go to 90 ft/lbs
racewear require a retorque after 2 full heat cycles. with these many oring the liners with the 12mm its not needed . fwiw i have the pauter rods as well. the motor made 808 with no issues. if i had a choice i would use carillo but these were in the motor already
racewear require a retorque after 2 full heat cycles. with these many oring the liners with the 12mm its not needed . fwiw i have the pauter rods as well. the motor made 808 with no issues. if i had a choice i would use carillo but these were in the motor already
#7
I'm sure Pauter will handle much more then you are pushing, I wouldn't even sweat it.
I'm still trying to figure out the whole head studs thing, I'm not sure why these motors seem to have so many problems with head studs. I'm planning to use an mls, I've had great luck with these in the past with other builds.
Did you blow a gasket? Why changing studs?
I'm still trying to figure out the whole head studs thing, I'm not sure why these motors seem to have so many problems with head studs. I'm planning to use an mls, I've had great luck with these in the past with other builds.
Did you blow a gasket? Why changing studs?
i have to have faith in my engine builder. he says 12mm and i believe he has my best interests at heart. don't want to crack the motor again after this build so I'm building it as strong as i can afford
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#10
Thought about it, but really if you think about it, you only really need a 3.6 to support 900whp on e85.
Think ill just put some new bearings, rings, lifters, gaskets and rods. I'm hoping my turbos do what I want...
Think ill just put some new bearings, rings, lifters, gaskets and rods. I'm hoping my turbos do what I want...
#11
and you can't replace the rings unless the liners and pistons are sent off for recoating with the rings. its a close tolerance fit with nikasil
#12
Well, I will start tearing the motor down next month. I'm curious to see whats up with cylinder 2. All cylinders are 100%, but #2 has a 6% leakdown. Most seems to be coming from exhaust valves. Car ran perfect though.