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I've been looking at what would be needed to create a button for the driver to override the exhaust valves. It looks fairly easy, a three port valve and a radio controlled relay on 433mhz . The valve would be installed to make the vacuum line look at either the valves or a dead end. The valves would look at either the vacuum line or fresh air. The 3port valve would be controlled by a 12dc radio relay. The keyfob for this would be learned to one of the three garage buttons on the roof.
Already done.
Try these guys. Contact them, no reason why this wouldn't work for a Continental as the system operates the same way as the Corvette does:
Not sure they'll ship to the UK and I think this installs where the "brain" for the valves is .has anyone found this brain yet?
I believe you're overthinking it, and looking for something that doesn't exist. These exhaust systems are pretty common and simple. The reason the valves are operated by vacuum (and vacuum lines run all the way to the rear bumper) is because vacuum is a natural byproduct of a running internal combustion engine. The intake manifold is high vacuum at idle and progressively lower vacuum as RPM increase.
What they all try to create is a progressive airflow (lower back pressure) as rpms increase in range to redline. The louder exhaust sound is secondary to performance (but feeds the male ego too, so a good thing).
On Corvettes, it is as simple as a vacuum port at the back of the the intake manifold with a vacuum line run all the way back to the valves....THAT'S ALL. No reason this system is any more complex than that, with the addition of a one-way check valve in the vacuum lines because of the turbos and pressure at the intake after one atmosphere.
The switch WS I sent you is an aftermarket device because guys didn't want to wait for 4500 RPM or more to hear the noise, so the switch is a way to intervene and interrupt the vacuum at low RPM and idle to play with the sounds at will.
I know there is an electronic component to the system, and I shouldn't have described it so simply as to be just a vacuum line back to the manifold. I think it's simple though. like an electronic check valve. But as far as I can see, and that is looking at all the modules in the car using VCDS, I don't see any reference to a module for this.
In the Corvette application instructions, the device intervenes at a specific fuse. Some, in the Corvette world simply pull the fuse to allow full time open exhaust. They do not report a CEL, so the fuse doesn't power a complete Can-Bus module (or brain as you put it). Even if there was an external device processed through a can-bus module, let's say a body control module, the module would report a fault pulling the fuse to a device it controls.
Back to your idea. If the electronic device is simple, and if it works like the Corvette system, then that is all the device is doing - it is intervening at the fuse for the electronic valve by making/breaking the +v. Then they're using a simple rf circuit for remote controlling the on/off switch. I've looked at the fuse panels in the gen 1 GT and there are two fuses one for each dual mode exhaust bank located in the engine compartment fuse box. But unfortunately (and unlike the Corvette), the same two fuses (7+8) power several other components as well. So, maybe not as simple as intervening at a fuse(s), but maybe tracing the circuit and intervening at the +v feed to the dual mode devices.
I was asked in a private message how to bypass the quiet exhaust flaps. Thought it might help others so I am also posting my reply in the thread. This is a pretty old thread so might have been answered earlier too and I did not review the entire thread over again. Sorry if it is a duplicate:
Both flaps stay open until the engine starts. These flaps operate on system vacuum. At idle and midrange, vacuum exists closing the flaps. At higher RPM and redline, vacuum is low or gone, then flaps open.
If your flaps are open all the time with engine running idling, then yours are already disconnected.
I disconnected mine same as Corvettes as they use the very same system -
Take the rear plastic belly pan off. This exposes exhaust pipes/mufflers.
At the rear, by the exhaust tips you will see vacuum dashpots, one on each side.
Just remove the rubber hoses from the dashpots, plug them securely with a screw in the tube
Then tie them off with tiewraps so they are safely out of the way.
Replace the belly pan.
You are done.
I just replaced one of these. The car made a high-pitched whine every time I hit the gas, this was helpfully pointed out by a fellow poster here as an exhaust valve flapper valve.
On the ODB, I got that code, so it made sense. But that's why I'm writing this, there is some sort of Can Bus connection with these guys, because I got the error. I don't really care about the exhaust sound, the car already rumbles plenty for me, but the interior is so quiet, I absolutely had to get rid of that high tone every time I hit the gas. It was quiet enough I couldn't get a recording of, but loud enough to drive me batty.
11-11-2018 | 08:55 AM
