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Hello All,
Just figured that I would post a few pictures of the B out and about.
I added the "BENTLEY" to the bootlid, and the Union Jack to each wing, I purchased the "W12" for each wing, but I did not install them, I thought it was a bit much, I cut and filed the belt molding for the lower portion of the front bumper on both sides.
Also attached is my video with a cold start of the AWE Supersports exhaust system from back before I put the wings and the bumper on, in the video I ask about the 3 wires on the left front side, I have solved that mystery, they were for the fifth TPMS sensor/antenna.
It's an addictive sound isn't it. I have a Quicksilver Supersports fitted and it brings a smile to my face all the time.
I was going to give you a "like" on utube but cant find the widget thing???
It's an addictive sound isn't it. I have a Quicksilver Supersports fitted and it brings a smile to my face all the time.
I was going to give you a "like" on utube but cant find the widget thing???
Hello @Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
Sorry I missed this from back in January...
Yes, it is, maybe you could post a video of your Quick Silver Supersports for us.
Hello All,
I would like to ask if any of you have ever removed the AC compressor from the vehicle without removing the bumper and radiator support assembly, is it doable from the bottom, did it require dropping the engine assembly at all, even if just a few inches, OR, have you replaced the N280 valve while the compressor was in place ?
I think that I may look into to it this weekend, as the car with no AC lately has become unbearable at times, it was all working fine on my first trip to RI back in July 2021, and for one brief moment it shot out a warm humid air, for a few seconds, but then all was fine while driving around up there, but on the drive home in the pouring rain I lost all cold air, just ambient temperature, then when I got home and shut it down, the next day it was fine, I threw the gauges on and all looked well, good high pressure and good low pressure, plenty of variation between the two, then I drove through the winter and of course all was fine for quite a while, this year it did the same thing, and I admit that I didn't pay much attention as I should have to the pressure readings, I mean I do HVAC, I should have paid more attention, and I probably could have saved the compressor, that is if it is infact shot now, the pressure was a little high on the high side, and a little low on the low side, but I attributed that to the extremely hot day, and the roasting engine compartment, as when I checked again at cooler temperatures, all was OK, until they weren't, the air would be cool but not as cold as it was prior in hotter weather, I checked the gauges again, and now found the high side going off the scale, and the low side almost pulling a vacuum, just a hair below zero, which to me meant that the N280 valve was working as it allowed full suction of the low side, so I evacuated the system and pulled the orifice/screen/expansion valve, well, the pictures will show the cause, BUT, I can not figure out what this buildup is, is the the seals of the compressor, some form of dirt/substance that got into the system while stored all those years, the lines were taped up in my vehicle, as was the condensing coil in the radiator support assembly while stored in my house, the HVAC suitcase was also taped up, as I had blown some air through the evaporator coil prior to rebuilding the HVAC suitcase, that only leaves the AC compressor of the Supersports engine that wasn't sealed so good, one side was open, but it all looked clean to the eye, and the system worked extremely well for that long road trip...
So, my decision is to evacuate the system again, then pull the orifice tube again, if clear, then I will attempt to remove the N280 valve off of the compressor in place, if clogged, then either clean or replace it, as now the pressures of just shy of equal, sometimes greater, other times not, lately it has been if I start the engine and let it idle, the AC will blow cold, sometimes, but the second I touch the accelerator to bump up the rpms, the AC stops blowing cold, and the pressures go closer to equal, which is my problem, if the compressor can make good pressure at idle, it that the N280 valve clogged, or is the compressor wiped...
Would you all just bite the bullet and swap out the compressor, or would you attempt the N280 valve and recharge first ??
Hello All,
I can not figure out what this buildup is, is the the seals of the compressor, some form of dirt/substance that got into the system while stored all those years, the lines were taped up in my vehicle, as was the condensing coil in the radiator support assembly while stored in my house, the HVAC suitcase was also taped up,
So, my decision is to evacuate the system again, then pull the orifice tube again, if clear, then I will attempt to remove the N280 valve off of the compressor in place, if clogged, then either clean or replace it, as now the pressures of just shy of equal, sometimes greater, other times not, lately it has been if I start the engine and let it idle, the AC will blow cold, sometimes, but the second I touch the accelerator to bump up the rpms, the AC stops blowing cold, and the pressures go closer to equal, which is my problem, if the compressor can make good pressure at idle, it that the N280 valve clogged, or is the compressor wiped...
Would you all just bite the bullet and swap out the compressor, or would you attempt the N280 valve and recharge first ??
Johnny
Hello Johnny,
I'll throw my hat in for what it's worth. The build up might be aluminum from a scored compressor. The PAG oil quantity is critical for proper function and lubrication. The evacuation process looses PAG oil. Also the system was assembled with parts not knowing how much oil was in the system. The receiver dryer should've been replaced too. In my opinion. The system may..probably needs a compressor, definitely a receiver/ dryer (same as VW and Audi) and a complete commercial flush. An inline filter should be fitted to catch any future particulate. Then the appropriate PAG 46 quantity and 134A refrigerant.
Hope this helps from a far.🙂
Eric
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; 08-17-2023 at 05:31 AM.
Hello @1eapplebaum ,
Thank you for your response !
I should have mentioned that when I first assembled the AC system, I evacuated it with my own evacuation pump down to below 200 microns, and let it sit to verify no leaks, I also had purged the system with nitrogen, then I had the system professional charged prior to any use, he released my vacuum and pulled it again, as that is the way his machine did its procedure, I also watched him add the oil via the machine, and then weight in the proper gram/oz of required 134A, but as you mention the oil, could it be to much oil, the compressor definitely still had oil in it upon assembly, but I think not, as it would then have plenty of lubrication, as to the inline filter being fitted, do you mean an aftermarket add on filter, or the factory inline screen/orifice I pictured above, that I replaced ?
As to the receiver/dryer, my vehicle had 10K miles on it, and the Supersports engine with it's compressor only had 11K miles on it, so, both like new miles and use wise, so why would there be a need for any replacement, especially since the system was sealed for years, then when I did disassemble the lines, I rubber plugged and taped them for no inlet of debris or moisture.
I must say, just as you just said (no disrespect intended at all), so many people go to the dryer can, or the condensing coil, and or bad compressor on our Bentley's, as quite a few members here have done, replacing the condensing coil, and or the dryer can together or seperate, only to find it was a bad compressor, I have sent 3 compressors to members here after they were told it was one of the other items, only to find that they wasted money on parts not needed, I guess what I am trying to say is, what is with these compressors on the Bentley's, in my years of having many Audi vehicles with the same exact compressor, I have never had a compressor fail, and they have had refrigerant leaks via pressure sensor switch, or bad condensing coil over time, but all parts replaced and all in working order, with the original compressor and dryer can, just as my 05 A8L W12 is now, I had a leak, it was the pressure sensor on the high side leaking through the wiring pins of the sensor itself, I replaced the sensor, purged with nitrogen, vacuumed the system to lower than 200 microns with my own tools, and refilled with 134A cans from the local auto zone, and all has been great for many thousands of miles, ice cold, zero issues, and I am talking 3+ years now, yet the Bentley, not good.
I fully understand replacement of the dryer can in a lineset when replacing a failed compressor, or the whole condensing unit in the residential/commercial application, I have done it for years, but, on a vehicle with all good functioning parts, I don't know, I mean the Bentley was working 100% as it should, maybe too many high RPM shifts 😉 😜 .
I will add, that the debris was not hard like aluminum shavings, it was pliable like rubber, but also a mix of a gritty sand feeling, that would brake up in your fingers, and it wasn't sand from the hurricane, as the system was still fully charged when I received the vehicle.
Maybe the shock from the accident of the Supersports did something to the compressor, but that car was hit in the rear.. or the seller (salvage yard) got dirt in the compressor and or return line that came with it, that I failed to see, and said dirt mixed with the oil in the compressor and failed to be extracted during evacuation or nitrogen purge.
I will pull the charge again and check the screen/orifice for debris, then onto the N280 valve, SO, if anyone has done the N280 valve while the compressor is in the vehicle, please let me know.
Thank you,
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 08-17-2023 at 07:59 AM.
Hello @1eapplebaum ,
Thank you for your response !
I should have mentioned that when I first assembled the AC system, I evacuated it with my own evacuation pump down to below 200 microns, and let it sit to verify no leaks, I also had purged the system with nitrogen, then I had the system professional charged prior to any use, he released my vacuum and pulled it again, as that is the way his machine did its procedure, I also watched him add the oil via the machine, and then weight in the proper gram/oz of required 134A, but as you mention the oil, could it be to much oil, the compressor definitely still had oil in it upon assembly, but I think not, as it would then have plenty of lubrication, as to the inline filter being fitted, do you mean an aftermarket add on filter, or the factory inline screen/orifice I pictured above, that I replaced ?
As to the receiver/dryer, my vehicle had 10K miles on it, and the Supersports engine with it's compressor only had 11K miles on it, so, both like new miles and use wise, so why would there be a need for any replacement, especially since the system was sealed for years, then when I did disassemble the lines, I rubber plugged and taped them for no inlet of debris or moisture.
I must say, just as you just said (no disrespect intended at all), so many people go to the dryer can, or the condensing coil, and or bad compressor on our Bentley's, as quite a few members here have done, replacing the condensing coil, and or the dryer can together or seperate, only to find it was a bad compressor, I have sent 3 compressors to members here after they were told it was one of the other items, only to find that they wasted money on parts not needed, I guess what I am trying to say is, what is with these compressors on the Bentley's, in my years of having many Audi vehicles with the same exact compressor, I have never had a compressor fail, and they have had refrigerant leaks via pressure sensor switch, or bad condensing coil over time, but all parts replaced and all in working order, with the original compressor and dryer can, just as my 05 A8L W12 is now, I had a leak, it was the pressure sensor on the high side leaking through the wiring pins of the sensor itself, I replaced the sensor, purged with nitrogen, vacuumed the system to lower than 200 microns with my own tools, and refilled with 134A cans from the local auto zone, and all has been great for many thousands of miles, ice cold, zero issues, and I am talking 3+ years now, yet the Bentley, not good.
I fully understand replacement of the dryer can in a lineset when replacing a failed compressor, or the whole condensing unit in the residential/commercial application, I have done it for years, but, on a vehicle with all good functioning parts, I don't know, I mean the Bentley was working 100% as it should, maybe too many high RPM shifts 😉 😜 .
I will add, that the debris was not hard like aluminum shavings, it was pliable like rubber, but also a mix of a gritty sand feeling, that would brake up in your fingers, and it wasn't sand from the hurricane, as the system was still fully charged when I received the vehicle.
Maybe the shock from the accident of the Supersports did something to the compressor, but that car was hit in the rear.. or the seller (salvage yard) got dirt in the compressor and or return line that came with it, that I failed to see, and said dirt mixed with the oil in the compressor and failed to be extracted during evacuation or nitrogen purge.
I will pull the charge again and check the screen/orifice for debris, then onto the N280 valve, SO, if anyone has done the N280 valve while the compressor is in the vehicle, please let me know.
Thank you,
Johnny
All good points well taken. The receiver dryer is like changing an oil filter. The desiccant within is depleted and once exposed to ambient air is considered expended. Just good measure and practice to change. The inline filter is aftermarket. The nitrogen purge is sage. Your A/C guy seems capable.
@Johnny Hotspur GT Wow im going through your journey bro and what a trip
how on earth did you remember how it all went back together bro ?
And who tinted your lights ?
Scrinja
01-27-2023 | 04:34 AM
