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It will not let you go to channel 5 until you have successfully finished 123 and four. Perhaps the measurement you are putting in at channel 4 is too large. You could also look at the measurement block area to verify you are actually getting data from channel 4.
Every time you failed to reach channel 5 and Store a 1 you have to start completely over
It took me two days to figure out mine. My problem turned out to be that the soft code number was missing the proper digit for my car "flying Spur" I could not enter the soft code reference in the article on this chat room
However my version of V--- Provided a drop-down window that explained the function of each digit in the soft code once I corrected the next to the last digit (changed the 5 to 3)
Then I got channel 5 to function. And I was able enter 1for channel 5 to store my calibration results. Critical to verify you were actually getting data from channel 4
GOOD LUCK
Each channel will have the tire I’m inputting the values in the second block in the middle of the screen if that’s what your referring to. I’m stuck and I need to get it going so I can go to work tomorrow (wife’s car is in for service so she’s using my truck)
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 10-01-2019 at 07:35 AM.
I'm not sure what kind of unit you are using to do your calibration. I used the one reference in the article. Which requires calibration via adaptation section.
Which followed the article step by step.
It only allowed me to put in my measurement at one place then when I hit test it finished it's cycle then I hit save. This allowed me to go to the next channel for the next wheel until I finished all four wheels and went to channel 5 as mentioned in the article.
FYI I drove the car a couple hundred miles when is it completely out of calibration. The right rear was 3 inches higher than the left .
The car looked dumb but it drove OK the ride was a little rough but that was the only issue.
I got up early to try it again. Same problem so I took a few pictures hoping someone can help me out. The jack mode car symbol is on and can’t get it off. Hopefully it’s ok to drive to work like this. It’s like the last wheel has a bad sensor. The only reason I’m now obsessed with this is my car Never use to scrap my driveway when I pulled out or in but know it does. I have to come in at an angle now. And it’s. Pretty low hump.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 04-29-2019 at 07:55 AM.
Try changing the next to last digit to match your car as shown on the pop down screen
The code when I started was 0005551
Yours has a six in the next to last spot which does not match anything in the pop-up explanation of each digit position. If you have a flying spur you need to put a 3 in the next to the last position. Only change that one digit. It should except it then everything else should start working
4779643]Try changing the next to last digit to match your car as shown on the pop down screen
The code when I started was 0005551
Yours has a six in the next to last spot which does not match anything in the pop-up explanation of each digit position. If you have a flying spur you need to put a 3 in the next to the last position. Only change that one digit. It should except it then everything else should start working
Will do. Even tho I’m in the states? Give me 10 mins and I’ll be right back.
EDIT:
No go. Still gives me a code rejected error.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 10-01-2019 at 07:35 AM.
No don't mess with the last digit your new number should look like 0005511 if it is a GT or 0005531 if it is a flying spur.
I'm in Texas I left the last digit as a 1
Well can anyone help me get this jack mode symbol to turn off? Using the two buttons won’t help as that way actually puts it in jack mode( it says it on the cluster)
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 10-01-2019 at 07:34 AM.
I don't know if this will prove or fix anything. Try to adjust the ride height, pressing the ride height button? How about changeing the air shock performance in the informant system does that respond? If not sure what I mean look in your owner's manual. These are just operator standard adjustments.
Just drive it around the block - should turn itself off if you go over like 10 mph....
Didn’t work. I drove to work and had it up to 65mph yesterday. Still there.
Originally Posted by 1eapplebaum
I don't know if this will prove or fix anything. Try to adjust the ride height, pressing the ride height button? How about changeing the air shock performance in the informant system does that respond? If not sure what I mean look in your owner's manual. These are just operator standard adjustments.
When I first start it up, I get the visit Workshop warning. I’ll try that once I get up to get ready for work. Thanks
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 10-01-2019 at 07:34 AM.
You might have a physical fault in the suspension system? If this is the case the adaptation won't work. I think you need to clear all the trouble codes and rescan the suspension.
You might have a physical fault in the suspension system? If this is the case the adaptation won't work. I think you need to clear all the trouble codes and rescan the suspension.
Yea your right. I was leaning towards that. I cleared the fault 3 times and it instantly comes back. Calling now to schedule an appointment. I bet it’s that rear left wheel that keeps saying invalid.
I’m new at all this stuff so I appreciate everyone with my ignorance on the subject.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 10-01-2019 at 07:33 AM.
Yea your right. I was leaning towards that. I cleared the fault 3 times and it instantly comes back. Calling now to schedule al appointment. I bet it’s that rear left wheel that keeps saying invalid.
I’m new at all this stuff so I appreciate everyone with my ignorance on the subject.
That is good info to put out there: the trouble codes that keep coming back.
Yea your right. I was leaning towards that. I cleared the fault 3 times and it instantly comes back. Calling now to schedule an appointment. I bet it’s that rear left wheel that keeps saying invalid.
I’m new at all this stuff so I appreciate everyone with my ignorance on the subject.
Late to this party:
If I missed it, what is the code that instantly comes back?
When you say instantly, is it with an ignition cycle? Ign off then back on and the code reappears? Or, does it take an engine start, gear in drive and some distance to reproduce the code?
Asking BC with a CanBus system, ign cycles (ign off to on, but in Bentley's case, key inserted too) wakes up all the pertinent modules and they handshake on the bus. If the code is coming up on ignition cycle without starting/driving the car, then the module is not waking up, or it is and then faults with its startup checks.
Sorry if this is too windy, but can you list the code and clarify at what point the fault reappears?
No doubt if you're seeing a failure (fault) at the left rear wheel it could be a hard fault at the wheel, but if the fault comes back at ign cycle, it might be the module that should be reporting all four wheels "check in" but fails at that wheel.
The wheel height sensors have a little arm lever connected to a suspension arm at all four corners. Sometimes the lever arm will physically break, and the sensor will be unable to accurately measure the ride height resulting in a fault code. You may want to check them to see if any have broken. Ones in the front are a pretty easy swap out. Never done one on the rear suspension.
04-28-2019 | 07:52 PM
