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@blakecameron1! ,
Yes, you could remove the line at the valve block, but, it you are going to do that, I would suggest that you attach a schrader valve to the line to test both the line and the strut itself, this way you can inflate the strut on your own, that is if you have a compressor at home, if you can find a female schrader valve, you can screw it right onto the line feeding the strut, if no female to be found, get a male and a female by female union to fit.
As to your question of the lower side level sensor making the other side lower to be level, no, that is not how it works, the other (good) side is lowering because of the fault of the failing side, because the driver side is low, the suspension control module is opening the front axle valves, either one at a time, or both together, depending on if the vehicle is in motion running, or shutdown and parked, the actions of this one axle (front or rear) at a time, or each corner individually is not so clear as to when the vehicle is parked and the engine shutdown, I have read conflicting points online, but, the issue always is the same outcome, be it both front valves opening and closing simultaneously, or one at a time, because each time the suspension control module tells the valve block to fill the lowered strut, which it can not, because of a leak, the opposite side always lowers over time as it loses air because of the failing side, and most of the time the compressor temperature sensor shuts the compressor down due to overheating trying to fill a leaking strut, then the compressor wears out and can not produce the proper pressure to fill the accumulator tank, then when the good side has been pulled down by the bad side and it asks for more air, there is not enough in the accumulator tank, therefore it falls more and more, until the system shuts down because it is read as being way to low..
Sorry, but I have to ask, did you ask the seller of the struts if they retained the OEM original factory designed electronic variable active dampening valve inside the strut, or did they put a resistor on the other end of that plug inside the strut to fool the suspension control module into thinking that oem factory designed equipment is installed, because they used a non electronic fixed valve for dampening ?
Johnny
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Originally Posted by blakecameron1!
Here is the link to the ones I bought.
It was a brass fitting that screws in to a 0 ring.
Can I remove the line from the block valve and see if air is coming out? If I do this, this will tell me its not a level sensor or a valve block. Right now its in the position of wanting to left up the passenger front but not driver. This will allow me to narrow down its the strut or the line itself right? Also to be clear, if one side falls to the ground, the level sensor makes the other side fall so it will be level correct? Doesn't mean both have a leak. Only reason I'm asking to it this way, I wont have to Jack the car up/remove tire to see if air is coming out.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 05-22-2023 at 09:21 AM.
Reason: Spelling
Okay will do! im going to try and pump the driver side strut up and see if air is coming from the line, or the strut. So here is the kicker, the passenger strut works, however the connector for the electrical on the strut was cut and soldered on the old one. So I did the same thing with the new one, and the passenger works! Now on the driver side, it has the connectors. To see if it was a connection issue, I keep the replacement strut on but plugged the electrical to the old strut. The reason I did that, was to see if it would air up the replacement. It did nothing.
How can I tell if they put a resistor on?
struts if they retained the OEM original factory designed electronic variable active dampening valve inside the strut, or did they put a resistor on the other end of that plug inside the strut to fool the suspension control module into thinking that oem factory designed equipment is installed, because they used a non electronic fixed valve for dampening
Okay will do! im going to try and pump the driver side strut up and see if air is coming from the line, or the strut. So here is the kicker, the passenger strut works, however the connector for the electrical on the strut was cut and soldered on the old one. So I did the same thing with the new one, and the passenger works! Now on the driver side, it has the connectors. To see if it was a connection issue, I keep the replacement strut on but plugged the electrical to the old strut. The reason I did that, was to see if it would air up the replacement. It did nothing.
How can I tell if they put a resistor on?
struts if they retained the OEM original factory designed electronic variable active dampening valve inside the strut, or did they put a resistor on the other end of that plug inside the strut to fool the suspension control module into thinking that oem factory designed equipment is installed, because they used a non electronic fixed valve for dampening
@blakecameron1! ,
To be 100 % clear, the electrical plug on each strut has nothing to do at all with the strut air bladder filling up and raising the vehicle, the electronic connection is for the strut itself and how the ride reacts, which again, has nothing to do with the air in the bags/bladders, the air in the bags/bladders sets the ride height, the electronic variable dampening valve inside the strut sets the ride firmness or softness.
I still will never understand why people cut these wires and resolder them, when a simple pin removal tool would relieve the pins from the plug housing without any cutting of the wires...
@blakecameron1! ,
NO, these will not work, as these require you to cut the plastic line to shove it into the schrader valve assembly, you want a female schrader valve as I pictured previously, a female schrader valve will allow you to just thread your existing line and fitting into it.
For anyone interested, I recently had a remanufactured RMT strut on my Flying Spur ‘15 blowout while driving (luckily I was going 25mph drove approx. 250ft until I got on my driveway). This was after 11 months of use and incident came without any warnings or suspicious behavior in the vehicle’s operation. Looks like this is becoming a normal occurrence. I would categorize this as highly dangerous!
I am on my 4th replacement from RMT struts. All blowouts were while I was going over 65mph on the highway. The last time I ordered a replacement shock and bought a new compressor. Never made it home before it collapsed again at high speed. This time I will count my loss and purchased two new struts and a new distribution block. Has anyone else had this of a extreme encounter? Sitting on the springs
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 08-19-2024 at 09:31 AM.
Reason: Fix quote box
05-21-2023 | 01:23 PM
