Hi

I have a 2005 Bentley GT with 86k Miles. Current problems: TPMS Sensors need to be replaced, parking brake doesn't work so I have a P symbol with a line thru it constantly. New Problems: Electronic Stability Program light and check engine light is on and idle is not normal.

Course of events:

Monday: Was Driving back from LA to the Bay Area and the low oil light came on and the closed place to get oil was 40 miles away and it made the drive but when I got close just the ESP light came on and it started idling weird like it was going to shut off but made it to the store. I ended up filling it up with 2.5 quarts of oil. The low oil light went away obviously but the ESP light was still there and check engine light was on but it was running and idling normal.

Tuesday: I take it to the shop to get the codes checked and the code came back to a sensor on the engine that tells how much air is in the engine? (I forgot what he said exactly but he said thats what the code is for and that sensor does cause the car to idle weird. So he resets it and I go home and the car is driving normal no lights but the transmission is switching gears at high rpms but I assumed it was because it was resetting itself. I make it home

Wednesday: I wake up and go straight to my car to turn it on and notice that both lights are on again (the ESP and check engine light) but the car is idling normal and I drove it around the block everything was normal except the two lights.

Thursday: I once again tested the car out again lights were still on and it is running perfect but the idle at stop is rough.

So my question is what might be wrong and has anyone had this problem before

 

Sounds like widely known false air. Basically, take the engine out and redo the air line. Figure $4k or so.

 

was this caused by me driving so long on the low oil light?

 

No, not at all, the engine holds about 13.5 quarts or so, let's hope it is not the failing vacuum lines that run over the transmission, but I must ask, how are you batteries, with the ESP, trans, engine roughness, ETC. You could have a low voltage problem causing all these sudden faults.

 

See my rebuild thread for visual on the vacuum lines that run over the transmission, best to start at post #1....

But if you want to jump right to the lines, that would be around post #80

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ictures-6.html

.

 

I replaced both batteries with new ones about a year ago..But about a few months ago I left the lights on and the battery died but after jump starting it I never had any low voltage issues.

 

Which battery died, left or right ?
There is a reason, but I want your answer first....

 

lol uhm I believe it was the left but I'm not sure I wasn't watching the car when the mechanic was jump starting it. First since the trunk wasn't going to open because of the dead batteries we had to give it some juice from the front then we unlocked the trunk and then he connected the cables to the left side closest to the tail light. Im sorry if this doesn't help.

 

That does help, now I am only asking that you have the left "House battery" checked for voltage level, along with a load test on same, as the left battery being the house battery which supplies juice to everything even running of the engine electronics, and all the computers, where the right-hand battery is just the starter battery, for future reference when you couldn't get anything to work in the car you would put the key in the ignition and turn it counterclockwise and hold it, then clockwise to start, so then it would have taken the juice from the starter battery on the right hand side and put it over to the left hand side so then you could operate the trunk opening, and what have you, now I am not saying that this is definitely your problem, but it is a place to start, as a battery that has been sucked dry of its charge, may never really come back to a full charge capacity, and your faults are common with a low voltage scenario, meaning you have all those faults just pop up in one to two days.

 

That makes a lot of sense. When my car is idling rough the lights are also dimming on the dash!

 

and I wish I new that trick then lol thanks I will def rmmr that in the future!

 

I agree with all that has been said prior to my comments. I might suggest the following additional considerations:

1. I am assuming you checked your gas cap to ensure it is snugly closed.

2. It is too bad you don't know the specific nature of the codes your dealer discovered. If they related to "O2 below threshold on bank "n", you may have a bad catalytic converter. The rough idle symptom can be caused not only by a vacuum leak, but also by a bad cat. If your diagnostics suggest a bad cat, it is NOT necessary to remove the engine (if the cat is on bank 2) to r/r it.

3. Do you hear a pump running in the left inner fender well? This vacuum pump should come on when you apply the brakes and stop shortly after you release the brakes. If you suspect a vacuum leak, the simplest diagnostic is to have a smoke test performed. There are several videos on youtube showing how this is done. Your car should idle at 500 RPMs exactly.

4. I don't believe there is any connection between the CEL and the ESP (other than a low battery condition). I have found it best to keep my car plugged into a CTEK charger when the car is sitting for a few days. These cars EAT batteries and when they are low on charge, you will get MANY strange DTCs.

5. I am assuming you are not the original owner of the car. If I am correct, do you have access to the service records? Any Bentley OEM dealer has access to your dealer-performed service records. Carfax might have other records. There was an early recall on ignition coils that should have been replaced on your vehicle, but it is worth checking.

6. In my experience, it is unusual for a Bentley to consume oil. Are there any signs of exhaust smoke.

7. You REALLY need to spend some time with a deep-level diagnostic system (not just OBDII, but DTCs specifically related to Bentley. I own a VAS5054a system and it has proven to be invaluable in resolving issues.

Please let us know how you address these issues so we may all learn.

 

Thanks for the reply

1. Gas cap is on tight

2 and 6. The code was definitely not for the cat and there is no smoke coming from the car.

3. Yes there is a noise in the front fender wall area of a buzzing noise that appears when I start the car but goes away after a few mins.

4. Low voltage might be the issue hear and that is where I am going to begin from. I will be keeping it plugged in the CTEK charger after fixed since I do go weeks without driving it sometimes.

5. Yes you are right I am not the original owner but I have a complete list of services done and they did not replace the ignition coils. Is that something I can still get done?

7. I am investing in one soon

I will keep everyone updated on the progress. Thanks again PMS and Johnny Hotspur GT and stevenrmusic for the quick help.

 

"2 and 6. The code was definitely not for the cat".

You won't get a code for the cat per se. There are two 02 sensors on each bank. One is ahead of the cat and the other is behind it. The ECUs compare the readings of the two O2 sensors and if the delta is not within spec, you will get a "O2 sensor below threshold" DTC. This indicates either a bad sensor or a bad cat.

"they did not replace the ignition coils". If the original coils have not been replaced, I believe you will be eligible for a free replacement. Any OEM Bentley dealer can confirm if your car has had the update.

 

UPDATE: So the issue was a few vacuum leaks. The mechanic said he fixed couple of them from the outside but for one he has to drop the engine and tranny to get to and he is saying its going to cost 8000! Is there any cheaper solution to this?