mine are non soft close the boot lid pulls in as you close it but the doors dont.i might try the power down again and see if I can get lucky

 

Just an update I've got both door panels removed enough to access the locks but the plastic anti tamper covers are getting in the way.weve managed to get fingers in and operate the locks but still nothing does anyone know if there is a designated relay to this as there is a designated wire.the fuses are all good but still no operation in the deadlock.like Johnny has shown the deadlock should operate from the inner handle but it's not .I've ordered a endescope camera to have a good luck up there hopefully that will show something jamming the operation .I'm going to go quiet for a few days as we're of drag racing so hopefully when you hear from me next I will have good news thanks guys

 

Not sure if anyone could test this for me but hunting the problem my workmate replicated my problem on our work van.we sat inside turned engine off removed key then presses the lock button twice to cause it to deadlock,no matter what we did inside we could not get out.we tried the internal handles we tried the lock button we had windows open so tried outer handles and still nothing on inserting the key as soon as we started the van it unlocked this is leading us to believe that it is an electrical problem.if anyone's near their car could they try it and see what happens sit in your car dead lock the doors from key fob and try internal buttons and levers and see what happens that would be a great help.this is Puchong me to think that by leaving off the connector to the battery shown in earlier pics he's caused something to fault ie control module or relay etc thanks guys

 

Hello Y,
I do not know what to say as far as the work van, BUT, I just disassembled the door latch/lock mechanism and can say that I found nothing in the latching itself that has any electrical apparatus keeping it in what you are calling "deadlock", the two sets of wires you can see in the pictures are for the two micro switches, one MS being a door ajar switch riding on the latch to show the latch is fully closed, hence not ajar, the other MS is located on the outer door handle lever/cam, and is for when handle is pulled it rolls the door and quarter glasses down for door opening, I even tried to simulate if the outer door handle cable was stuck out would the latch still unlock with the inner cable, and it did, no matter how I tried, I could not get the inner cable form unlocking the lock or latch....

May I ask if you have tried the ole hip / thigh gently into the door while trying to unlock or open ?

Johnny


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Wow thankyou Johnny for the pictures amazing thankyou for taking the time to help.when I say dead lock I refer to the procedure of lol the van/far once with fob then press the lock button again this causes the van to dead lock.if you sit in your Bentley try it.take key out of ign press lock then lock again and try the inner handles it should be dead locked then because you have a working vehicle you can press fob and take it off and get out.the wiring diagram I have on my Bentley workshop manual says that the two wire plug into bottom of lock refers to it as deadlock control(or something similar) so was thinking because the plug I pictured at the start of the was was left off this caused some kind of electrical issue and that's when the locks shut as I was driving.

 

Okay, I am home from work now, I just went into the Bentley and sat in the driver's seat (LHD) had the key in the ignition in the on position, I tried many ways, key on lock doors, key off lock doors, key removed from ignition and lock the doors, once, twice, no matter what I did, pressing the lock button twice did nothing, I could only hear the locking mechanism on the first push of the button, also the lock buttons where illuminated yellow to show that they are locked, no matter what I did I was able to pull the inner handle to unlock and open the door, I even got out of the car with the window down and locked it, so with windows down I reached in to press door lock buttons simulating break-in to try to unlock the doors, nothing happened, but when I pulled the inner handle simulating smashing the glass and pulling inner handle to unlock and open the door, it unlocked and opened with one pull of said inner handle, BUT all the lights flashed and alarm sounded for break in, so again I do not understand where or whom is quoting "deadlock" scenario, I have not seen any information that supports deadlock, I see "CDL" which stands for central door locking, but that just has to do with standard door locking .

Also please confirm that you have physical pulled both the outer handle cable inside the door shell itself, also that you have pulled the inner handle cable at the latch area to confirm tension on said cables/ levers.

You have said that you can hear the locking mechanisms actually working, are you sure they are going the full travel to truly unlock, I would be ripping that plastic cover off of the lock/latch as it only has 3 pin/slot fasteners areas .

 

Hi Johnny I'm back from racing and have got straight back to the problem in hand.after looking with an edescope camera we've noticed that something isn't right with the way he has installed a certain part now all I need to do is to work out what it's operation is and how I could possibly sort it I've taken some pictures I hope they are clear enough

 

It should look something like this

 

Hello Y,
Just giving some thoughts here, I am a bit confused by the condition in your pictures, looks a little beat up, BUT, to remind you, the outer handle only is tied to the latch by way of the one single small cable, so the preloading of the handle I believe is only for returning the handle to it's normal position after each pull, and for setting the cable in it's notches after first pull, also, I do not think that you were able to remove the inner door panel as to access the inner door panel and remove same to gain access to the small cable and latch mechanism, if so, please inform us.

I will get some pictures tonight of the complete outer handle setup along with latch and lock, I may even insert same into one of the black GT door shells I have.

Next, I think we may or should look at another way to get the doors open, as you can see by the shape of the doors and the rear quarters that one could never access the latch strikers from inside or outside, SO, how about removing the rear seats (very easy) and removing the side panels along with the rear window lift motors to gain access to the strikers from behind, I am not sure right now if I have my passenger rear panel off, I will see tonight, if so, I will take a few pics of the inside of the area to see if maybe you grinding the striker bolts off and easy outing them out to release said striker to get your doors open, if you follow my meaning.


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Okay, the installer fouled up the button head lock cylinder retainer clamp, which I just simulated on the bench, if that clamp is not seated properly, a piece of the clamp on the other side keeps the handle from traveling its proper distance when pulled, as in only moving about 3/8 of an inch instead of 5/8 to 3/4 travel, therefore not operating the door from the outer handle, that still does not explain the inner handle not opening the door, as I have already simulated the outer handle stuck halfway and fully pulled, and the inner handle still opens the door, that leads me to think that the installer fouled up the inner cable also.

What amount of travel do you have on the outer handles ?

Here are many pictures of the door handle, lock, and latch, the brass colored button screw gets sandwiched between the two ears of the lock cylinder retainer clamp, the other small screw locks the cylinder and the inner section of the door handle together.

With some luck maybe the installer left the smaller screw loose, being the clamp is in the open position, maybe try pulling the lock cylinder out by inserting the key, turning left or right and pulling on it, then you can see the cable in the lock cylinder hole.

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My inner rear panel is in place, but the seats are out, I have a blown tweeter so I have to remove it anyway, but no time tonight, but here are pictures of the striker from the parts car.


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Ok guys I have to say thank you very much for the great support on this one and the amount of detail you have provided it's very much appreciated.
RIGHT!!! After speaking to a Bentley master technician he seems to think I am in the %1 he said he has come across this before but it is very rare.now with his description,your pics and some logical thinking this is what were thinking.
Because the lever on the door has not been set up properly and not allowing the handle to reset to it's normal position or not doing its full movement from open to close the mechanism is in limbo.the Bentley tech described it as imagine a staple gun,you press the handle to fire a staple but if it's not able to open fully it will not be able to operate again.he said he's known a handle to be ok for 4 or 5 operations and then the cable has tightened so it won't allow it to do a full sweep causing the problem I have.as the cable from the door handle to the mech is only £5 and it's almost impossible to remove in the situation we have we were thinking cut the cable release mech so it can fully open.it should then pick up the door latch and we can open it using the interior handle .also how does the door lock on the driver's side remove as I have limited access if I could get that out I could try and pick the cable out of the handle via the hole where the door lock sits

 

Hello Y,
Did you read my last four posts numbers 36, 39, 40, and 41, especially number 40 ?

You will see that what your Bentley Master Tech is saying does not fly, I have simulated the outer handle lever seated in many different positions, fully at rest, fully pulled out, halfway pulled out, and in between halfway out and halfway in, no matter where the outer handle lever is seated on the latch mechanism the inner handle cable always opens the door, as I previously stated, if the installer fouled up the inner handle cable also and the lock cylinder retainer clamp is like yours is, then the outer handle will NOT pull out far enough to open the door, so as I asked earlier, please tell me about the travel of the outer handle, and give it a good yank if it only has short throw at the moment, also I explained how the lock cylinder is installed in my post showing the button head bolt that retains the lock cylinder clamp, and the small screw that retains the lock cylinder to the inner section of the handle, you can not get to these two as their access is in the door jam as pictured earlier, BUT as I said, being that your installer left the lock cylinder retainer clamp and button head bolt loose, maybe he left the small screw loose also, so insert the key into the lock and turn and try to pull it out.

 

Hi Johnny just back at car now both handles pull out about 15mm both sides and cable looks tight that's not to say that the retainer clip isn't fouling something and stopping further travel.do you think this is the normal length .I think he has done up bottom screw so it's going to be hard to remove barrel.deoending how hard it is to remove seats and rear quarter trim that might be a possibility is it easy with door still shut?

 

Looking at the manual I have in my laptop and it looks as if you don't have (deadlock) in the US it's just a European thing stupid idea!!