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@BWings I will order another MAF for make sure it work..
the previous owner replace both MAF also... I don't know if it still keep the old one.
I am not one for replacing parts to solve problems, but with the limited view I have on my end, it would probably be a good thing to do. Make sure you get the correct MAF P/N. Don't use a generic one. I know the MAFs used in the W12 are a common VAG to other cars, but I don't have the p/n right now.
I saw rockauto has the Bosch one which is not that expensive... that is the reason I want to tried..
I will order it then put it in and see will it change the value...
in here we has problem with Clone part from chinese which is sometimes good some times not.. that why..hizz
today I borrow MAF from a car friend.. for double check and I m thinking it is not the MAF issued because his car doesn’t has any issue.. maybe my car has wiring issue some where because the problem is intermittent
specially on cold start
Good you checked without buying new parts to guess at a solution. At this point if you don't have an air leak somewhere in the leftside intake past the MAF or a wiring problem, then all that's left is the O2 sensor. O2 sensors can get lazy in places along the operating spectrum, or they can fail completely. They are really last on the list of solutions to P2190, but anything is possible in fueling and the path the ECU might chose to report a problem.
Past these ideas, I have no other suggestions. Wish you best of luck tracing this problem and I would like to hear the eventual solution you find.
I did one internet search. I do not like trying to solve P-codes on the internet because several sites look at any code and come up with different lists of possibilities. The one that caught my attention does list spark plugs and since that was a direction you were looking at anyway, maybe try that as a possibility. Again, if I keep searching P2190 on google, the list of possibilities grows longer and longer. So please take this as a small possibility only. Most of these on the list have already been mentioned or you have already explored. The worst of these on the list is O2 sensor and exhaust leak as either would be engine out.
Common Problems That Trigger the P2190 Code
Clogged air filter
Damaged or contaminated spark plug
Engine sensor failure
Exhaust leak
Fuel injector failure
Powertrain Control Module (PCM) software needs to be updated
The fuel does not meet the manufacturer's requirements
NG - I STRONGLY suggest, that if you replace spark plugs, or fuel injectors you only use OEM specification parts. This is especially true with fuel injectors. You might find an aftermarket injector with the same flow rate, but there is much much more to injectors than just flow. Injector data include ramp up, tip in ramp down, etc. Different injector manufacturers have different specs. You need access to the injector data in the EMS to change manufacturers and this is not available with most diagnostic equipment.
I thought of one more thing. This is a plausible theory, theory being the operative word because I can't recall or see any evidence this actually has caused a P2190 which is a very specific and isolated rich fuel condition.
The heater circuit on the leftside front O2 sensor could be bad (or failing) or defective wiring to it. The heater circuits warm up the O2 sensors so they can switch much faster than waiting for engine temps to do the job. This allows designers to set EMSs to close loop much sooner than full ECTs which makes all the EPAs of the world happy. In fact, they are designed to warm sensors up enough to close loop at 105*F ECT.
Now, in this case, POSSIBLY at 105*F the LS sensor is too cold to switch, but signals still get measured. Sensor might be incapable of any voltage output so it signals very rich conditions. The ECU is trying to CUT fuel. So if this theory is correct, you likely really have a lean condition on bank 2 for warmup, then the O2 sensor finally warms up from engine temps and switches normally. This could be why you are seeing no symptoms of poor running conditions, but the P2190 is already set leaving a CEL on the dash.
Unfortunately, this O2 sensor is impossible to reach. It's wiring too.
I just wanted to add this last thought. I know it might not be that helpful to you.
I thought of one more thing. This is a plausible theory, theory being the operative word because I can't recall or see any evidence this actually has caused a P2190 which is a very specific and isolated rich fuel condition.
The heater circuit on the leftside front O2 sensor could be bad (or failing) or defective wiring to it. The heater circuits warm up the O2 sensors so they can switch much faster than waiting for engine temps to do the job. This allows designers to set EMSs to close loop much sooner than full ECTs which makes all the EPAs of the world happy. In fact, they are designed to warm sensors up enough to close loop at 105*F ECT.
Now, in this case, POSSIBLY at 105*F the LS sensor is too cold to switch, but signals still get measured. Sensor might be incapable of any voltage output so it signals very rich conditions. The ECU is trying to CUT fuel. So if this theory is correct, you likely really have a lean condition on bank 2 for warmup, then the O2 sensor finally warms up from engine temps and switches normally. This could be why you are seeing no symptoms of poor running conditions, but the P2190 is already set leaving a CEL on the dash.
Unfortunately, this O2 sensor is impossible to reach. It's wiring too.
I just wanted to add this last thought. I know it might not be that helpful to you.
The continuity can be checked by unplugging the pigtail beneath the windshield wiper cowl. Perhaps Mr BWings can pass to you the wire layout in the pigtail. Just a suggestion.🤔😊
Some time ago I ran across a youtube of someone who claimed he could remove the exhaust (link past turbo and past the cat) without removing the engine. I can't recall all the tricks he used. I think at one point I saw a cutting torch lit. You'd have to search for the YT. At the time I didn't think it was important enough to save.
Today I run about 100 miles...
but the P2190 happen somes times and sometimes doesn't on the road...
If I'm going over the bump then the fuel trim change...Maybe I got loose wiring or some hose clamp some where?
Some time I hear Hissing sound when press Gas pedal at idle.. some times not... that is weirg
As I mention when I hear the hissing sound the fuel trim go all the way down.. then when the hissing disappear it back to normal...
At the rear of the engine remove the center plastic cover. There are small vacuum lines and sensors that control the fuel pressure and EGR. Check the wiring and the vacuum lines in this area.
@1eapplebaum would u please take a picture of it for me?
And I have a question, in your car at fully warm up.. when u idle it do u hear a Hissing noise bellow the Bentley Logo in the engine?
sound like a Vaccum leak but If I smoke test I didn't find any leak at all..
even if I turn the engine off completely I still here the hissing sound continue for about 1 min
@1eapplebaum would u please take a picture of it for me?
And I have a question, in your car at fully warm up.. when u idle it do u hear a Hissing noise bellow the Bentley Logo in the engine?
sound like a Vaccum leak but If I smoke test I didn't find any leak at all..
even if I turn the engine off completely I still here the hissing sound continue for about 1 min
This is the area I was referring to. The fuel pressure regulators are the silver round pieces. Then there are a couple of vacuum solenoids. Probably the best test is start the car and lightly spray starting fluid in the area and see if the engine changes RPM. If there is a noticeable change in RPM than that is the vacuum leak. Next run the car and move the pieces in there see if the problem occurs intermittently.
Where exactly is this vacuum noise after shutting off the car? The only noise my car makes after shut off is the fans in front of the engine, which is normal.
Using vcds output tests of the different modules can sometimes isolate a particular noise to a particular solenoid. This worked for me with a disconnected secondary air pump hose.
@1eapplebaum today the car running perfect... I check all the wiring seem like it all good .. I just want to double checking
the red area is the place I'm hearing the hissing noise...
can I actuataion the Vacuum pump so I can check for the issue?
08-21-2019 | 07:16 AM
