Notorious Air Suspension
#16
They are not trained to diagnose down to the root cause level. In case of the air suspension, they might spend time looking for a line leak, but these would be exceptional techs and ones with lots of hands on experience with a given system. This is just the way it is with dealer techs, and the name on the door doesn't make a difference. If it were an electrical issue, and bad wiring, they'll replace a lot of parts before giving up. Usually the real serious problems come with older cars and dealer techs usually don't like taking repairs on those for that reason.
On the air compressor, you don't want to attempt the repair for $40? over $250? If you're willing to take on the work, I'll be glad to walk you through the rebuild.
#17
The thing about dealer techs, they are trained to diagnose at the parts level, so they replace parts. There is no shame with them to keep replacing more and more parts until the problem is solved. Either you or the factory is paying for the parts.
They are not trained to diagnose down to the root cause level. In case of the air suspension, they might spend time looking for a line leak, but these would be exceptional techs and ones with lots of hands on experience with a given system. This is just the way it is with dealer techs, and the name on the door doesn't make a difference. If it were an electrical issue, and bad wiring, they'll replace a lot of parts before giving up. Usually the real serious problems come with older cars and dealer techs usually don't like taking repairs on those for that reason.
On the air compressor, you don't want to attempt the repair for $40? over $250? If you're willing to take on the work, I'll be glad to walk you through the rebuild.
They are not trained to diagnose down to the root cause level. In case of the air suspension, they might spend time looking for a line leak, but these would be exceptional techs and ones with lots of hands on experience with a given system. This is just the way it is with dealer techs, and the name on the door doesn't make a difference. If it were an electrical issue, and bad wiring, they'll replace a lot of parts before giving up. Usually the real serious problems come with older cars and dealer techs usually don't like taking repairs on those for that reason.
On the air compressor, you don't want to attempt the repair for $40? over $250? If you're willing to take on the work, I'll be glad to walk you through the rebuild.
#19
Answered in the other thread.
#20
Ok I purchased the rebuild kit and just got done installing it. Car is coming up in all corners except for the front left. I’m assuming it is the strut itself. I really can’t spray it down much with the wheel in the way but I can see it come up maybe a 1/4 of an inch and just gives up. Are the actual lines known to crack or break anywhere? Cause if not I will just buy a new front strut
#21
Both lines and struts can leak. Yeah, it's now important you find it. Lines BTW, tend to leak more at junctions, but being plastic, rubs can eventually break through. Kinks too. One test you might be able to pull off, disconnect the line at the LH air spring. Block the line. Start up see if everything fills up, compressor shuts off. If so, the air spring is bad. If the compressor still runs then line leak.
Compressor worked out OK? You rebuilt it using the new piston ring? If so, for $40 some bucks you now have the equivalent of a new compressor.
Compressor worked out OK? You rebuilt it using the new piston ring? If so, for $40 some bucks you now have the equivalent of a new compressor.
Last edited by BWings; 09-07-2019 at 10:11 AM.
#22
Jay,
Let me add, you'll have to trick the LF height sensor if you try disconnecting the line at the air spring to test. Just use a floor jack at that corner. keep the height of the LF the same as the Right side. Measure from the center of the fender well to the floor. It might take a few tries filling up and balancing fronts left to right.
Let me add, you'll have to trick the LF height sensor if you try disconnecting the line at the air spring to test. Just use a floor jack at that corner. keep the height of the LF the same as the Right side. Measure from the center of the fender well to the floor. It might take a few tries filling up and balancing fronts left to right.
#23
Bwings
Ok so after thinking after a while on how to test the line itself, I disconnected it from the distribution block and strut. I connected a fitting to my air blow nozzle that fit snug on the line, connected to my air tool compressor and had someone verify that all the air was making it through the other end. I capped one end with a gauge to create a seal and It held 5-7 psi without bleeding off so I now know the line is not the issue now. I will be replacing the strut.
the rebuild process was easy. I can Definetly tell a difference with how quick the other sides came up. Definently worth the 45 bucks!
Ok so after thinking after a while on how to test the line itself, I disconnected it from the distribution block and strut. I connected a fitting to my air blow nozzle that fit snug on the line, connected to my air tool compressor and had someone verify that all the air was making it through the other end. I capped one end with a gauge to create a seal and It held 5-7 psi without bleeding off so I now know the line is not the issue now. I will be replacing the strut.
the rebuild process was easy. I can Definetly tell a difference with how quick the other sides came up. Definently worth the 45 bucks!
#24
Don’t want to sound.....bossy, but please replace both fronts even if nothing is wrong with the other side. I just see you keep saying strut as if your going to replace just the one. Trust me, you’ll love yourself later for it.
#25
Bwings
Ok so after thinking after a while on how to test the line itself, I disconnected it from the distribution block and strut. I connected a fitting to my air blow nozzle that fit snug on the line, connected to my air tool compressor and had someone verify that all the air was making it through the other end. I capped one end with a gauge to create a seal and It held 5-7 psi without bleeding off so I now know the line is not the issue now. I will be replacing the strut.
the rebuild process was easy. I can Definetly tell a difference with how quick the other sides came up. Definently worth the 45 bucks!
Ok so after thinking after a while on how to test the line itself, I disconnected it from the distribution block and strut. I connected a fitting to my air blow nozzle that fit snug on the line, connected to my air tool compressor and had someone verify that all the air was making it through the other end. I capped one end with a gauge to create a seal and It held 5-7 psi without bleeding off so I now know the line is not the issue now. I will be replacing the strut.
the rebuild process was easy. I can Definetly tell a difference with how quick the other sides came up. Definently worth the 45 bucks!
Keep in mind what TJ said. unless you know how old the RS is, sage advice to match these air springs side to side.
You got this Jay, and now a forum smart guy!
#26
I still have my old ones sitting in the garage. I know they only have about 65,000 on them. I wish I knew of a place to send them in and have them completely done and they send me back MY exact struts.
#27
Strut rebuild kit from Germany. This would be interesting if it is compatible with our systems and if durable.
VV Phaeton Bentley Continental Air Suspension Air Bellows Front New Repair Kit | eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/VV-Phaeton-...4383.l4275.c10
#28
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Moss1st
Cayenne 958
4
12-19-2013 10:26 AM