Shop says there are a bunch of stored codes on P0247 (is that a thing? Once you clear it, does stuff stay stored?). I looked it up, it's in a very, very bad position to work on, probably have to disconnect engine and pull it up or drop it down.

I've noticed a loss of turbo power, at least I think I have. There's one other guy on here that had this exact issue, but he posted and hasn't been back in four years.

Any experts? Do I want to spend $4k to replace a $100 solenoid? Is there a workaround?

 

From a translated (Russian) site, sounds like the shop is right about the engine, 2006 they fixed it, I have a 2005

[font]"Electro-pneumatic valves often fail. [/font][font]The breakdown is not serious, but there is one thing, but until 2005 Bentley set the control valves of the turbines in a very inaccessible place, since 2006 they solved the problem and began to put the valves on the front of the engine. [/font][font]On this car, the valve is located above the automatic gearbox above the box. [/font][font]The W12 6.0 liter engine doesn’t even stick a hand from the side. [/font][font]The verdict is to remove the engine with automatic gearbox to get to the faulty element."[/font]

 

Geez the hits keep coming. I have no idea how we can troubleshoot the electrical connections without having to pull the motor to get at it. Do you have any suggestions? It's an independent shop, is this something for the Bentley dealer? Or will that just be worse?

 

@1eapplebaum my Bentley doesn't has that solenoid.. my turbo is completely mechanical...
do u think this car we can do a conversation

 

Even if a mechanical wastegate solenoid could be retrofitted the engine would still have to come out. Hopefully the problem is electronic and can be sorted out by a talented individual like yourself. As you discovered and demonstrated on your car it came down to a wire.

 

@1eapplebaum I think he can apply 12 volt to it with the engine off.. and here if it click or sound....
sent me the Vin I will look at the diagram and show u what to do...

 

Thanks, I shared this with them, will let you know.

 

Hopefully they get it. Now is a good time to change any of the vacuum control lines to metal. These are behind the steering rack and above the transmission.

There are two other turbo control solenoids one is called n75 the other n249. Although your turbo is focusd on n275 the other two solenoids are not expensive and easier to change now then pulling the engine again. Consider the O2 sensors to change out, they require engine out also.


By the way if time is available get some photographs of the engine while it's out. Get a good shot from above, right and left side, and above the transmission. Those photos are trophies.

In any event hope it goes well & no more bad news.

 

@1eapplebaum I did change both front O2 sensor in my friend car..
it is an easy job.. no need engine removal.. u just remove the Steering rack heat shield with the o2 sensor on top of that..
then u can remove it..

 

While they had the engine mostly disconnected, I had them do a bunch of preventative work, the vacuum hoses had already been done, but as suspected, they were done with the regular hose, so I had them replaced with stainless, actual Bentley part numbers (ouch, expensive), I replaced the other turbo solenoid (not expensive part so I just replaced both at the same time) and four O2 sensors (that was pricey). Lot's of work, but I'm glad I can afford to replace parts before they fail versus taking the engine out again. It's got 65k miles, so I've replaced most of the "can't get to" parts that usually fail on a GT. Bentley makes the "hard line" vacuum tubes but they're pricey too, probably could have gone the life of the car without replacing these, since the vacuum lines were new, but whatevs, I feel better about it.

When I was driving, before the repairs, I often felt a weird turbo hesitation, like the turbos weren't kicking in all the way, I suspect I'll have a much better acceleration experience with new boost controllers. Or, I won't be able to tell the difference, which is probably just as likely.

I had them adjust the driver's door; they didn't charge me for it, you guys told me it was a five-minute job. That will be nice, it was a little irritating for it to sag even the small amount it was.

I hope it's gone, I had a weird whine when I pressed the accelerator that I just could not identify. I thought it was an exhaust valve, but I fixed that and still the whine. Weird.

 

...By the way if time is available get some photographs of the engine while it's out. Get a good shot from above, right and left side, and above the transmission. Those photos are trophies.

 

How much does Bentley charge for the steel lines? I know Jason makes them for $200 last I checked with him and Audi was willing to install them no problem. I know I need to get this done, just kinda waiting on winter when I know I won’t be driving it.

 

Let us know if you're satisfied with FMU's work on your car. If mine needs this I'd like to know if FMU can handle it....

 

They charge a lot; I think around $1,200 for all, I wish I'd known about the $200 option. I asked if they'd just bend the line for me, but the technician wasn't into it, I could have twisted their arm, but he really wanted factory fittings since the engine would have to come out if a hand-built line failed, I totally understood that, I can't even flare brake lines without getting a spray of brake fluid when I pressure-check it.

I really threw a bunch of parts at this, I don't intend on ever pulling the engine again. Once is plenty.



I guess closer to $1,500 for factory hard lines.

 

The only part I had to change was $90.80

the rest was insurance.