Bentley gt smells like a rotten egg and battery low sign on
#17
I finally got the batteries for about $475 but most of the mechanics are very reluctant to help change the batteries for the fear of electrical damage, one says he would charge me $495 just to change the batteries . However Bentley wants to charge a arm and a leg for parts and labor. Any advice on the batteries besides taking it to the dealership?
#18
I finally got the batteries for about $475 but most of the mechanics are very reluctant to help change the batteries for the fear of electrical damage, one says he would charge me $495 just to change the batteries . However Bentley wants to charge a arm and a leg for parts and labor. Any advice on the batteries besides taking it to the dealership?
#19
Please read the following attachment which is the procedure for removing and installation of the batterys. This is a repeat of the attachment from an earlier comment on this post. [The header says removal, it's also the installation]. Additionally removing the stored trouble code is necessary. Volkswagen and Audi dealers can perform the scan and deletion of the trouble codes. Have them give you the printout of the codes, should you decide to go in this direction.
As Mr. Rico stated it's not a hard procedure to change the batteries. There is a bit of arm and leg work based on tight quarters.
Last edited by 1eapplebaum; 09-18-2019 at 08:28 AM.
#20
I will agree. This is not a hard job. On a scale of 1-10 I’ll give it a 4. I did mines and didn’t know anything about the sequence on which they had to be taken out. I did mines in less then an hour. And that was only because I had no instructions and had to figure out what to unscrew.
#21
I will agree. This is not a hard job. On a scale of 1-10 I’ll give it a 4. I did mines and didn’t know anything about the sequence on which they had to be taken out. I did mines in less then an hour. And that was only because I had no instructions and had to figure out what to unscrew.
#22
I have two Cteks 7002 that I use. After I finish the audio I just might add another battery and Ctek because of the way these cars eat them up so that the system is not more taxing on the stock ones.
#23
Yes it is. Hook up a battery charger/tender then take it out. (I forget which side holds the power for control mods but hook up that side). I would say use a tender because the cables are much smaller and you can manage to get around them. Take them off one at a time then maybe wrap a towel around the positive side so it can not touch any metal. (This is just how I would no it if I had to do it over again).
I have two Cteks 7002 that I use. After I finish the audio I just might add another battery and Ctek because of the way these cars eat them up so that the system is not more taxing on the stock ones.
I have two Cteks 7002 that I use. After I finish the audio I just might add another battery and Ctek because of the way these cars eat them up so that the system is not more taxing on the stock ones.
The AMG runs all the modules the other is the starter battery.
It's not a bad idea adding a 3rd battery, work out how many amps your new system will need, maybe you won't need to add one, then theres the issue of where to stick it, I have a pretty large system the battery is fine ...
#24
Yes that is one way, most of us have 2 chargers it's the best way.
The AMG runs all the modules the other is the starter battery.
It's not a bad idea adding a 3rd battery, work out how many amps your new system will need, maybe you won't need to add one, then theres the issue of where to stick it, I have a pretty large system the battery is fine ...
The AMG runs all the modules the other is the starter battery.
It's not a bad idea adding a 3rd battery, work out how many amps your new system will need, maybe you won't need to add one, then theres the issue of where to stick it, I have a pretty large system the battery is fine ...
Not to take over the thread tho 😂
OP have you figured out the egg smell?
#25
Yes that is one way, most of us have 2 chargers it's the best way.
The AMG runs all the modules the other is the starter battery.
It's not a bad idea adding a 3rd battery, work out how many amps your new system will need, maybe you won't need to add one, then theres the issue of where to stick it, I have a pretty large system the battery is fine ...
The AMG runs all the modules the other is the starter battery.
It's not a bad idea adding a 3rd battery, work out how many amps your new system will need, maybe you won't need to add one, then theres the issue of where to stick it, I have a pretty large system the battery is fine ...
Not to take over the thread tho
OP have you figured out the egg smell? I’m thinking it’s the non AMG battery. Just might be too old.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 09-24-2019 at 04:35 PM.
#26
Oh I’m taking that thing where a normal spare tire would go and sound deaden the entire trunk. Then have a shop build something to secure a battery and isolator in that space.
Not to take over the thread tho ��
OP have you figured out the egg smell? I’m thinking it’s the non AMG battery. Just might be too old.
Not to take over the thread tho ��
OP have you figured out the egg smell? I’m thinking it’s the non AMG battery. Just might be too old.
Yes the head unit in our Bentley's is powered by the AMG but thats all it powers up, Its the Amp/s that take most of the power directly from the battery, its worth looking into, I may just do that on my next project, still working on the dash (clocks) & the total alarm closer for the windows ...
Last edited by Rico.Adams; 09-18-2019 at 11:56 AM.