When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Only need jack mode if a wheels going to be off the ground and hanging free on there struts .
Theres is a risk of the internal bags rupturing if the strut is left to fully extend by not activating “ jack mode “
Many cars have air suspension, Range rovers , Cayennes etc etc .Its not a unique Bentley thing .Most reputable shops / car garages are aware of the bag rupture risk .
No sure how many times it can be done .....fully hung wheel and extended strut before a rupture , Suggest you don’t try and find out .A rather expensive exercise .
How ever having said that I have the page in the handbook photocopied and leave it on the centre console AND verbally always remind any mechanic who works on the car .
Vehicles needs to be flat and level for all the oil to drain out of the sump .
I can’t see how that can be done running the front up a pair of ramps . If you want to run one end up some ramps , answering your Q , it does not need “ jack mode “ as weight is still on all four corners .
So without a lift
jack mode and place 4 axis stands under it keeping it level .
or an inspection pit .
I've changed the oil on ramps, no problem, no jack mode needed. The drain hole is near the rear of the reservoir and looks to be the lowest point in the system, so I don't think there's too much risk of old oil lagging behind, but that's just my opinion. The oil filter, like the drain is also one of the lowest points in the system.
If you're really worried about it, you can use a half a quart to flush, before capping the plug and refilling. Perhaps a bit may remain, but I suspect it will be negligible and if there are any metal particulates, they should be heavier and have made their way to the bottom. Not sure if the bentley oil pan or filter has magnets or not. (only helps if key moving parts are steel, as opposed to aluminum or titanium)
Here's a video (this person has opted for jacks and is using jackmode) but you can get a good sense of where the drain plug is on the sump lower housing at the 5:28 mark. Front end raised might even be an advantage if I'm seeing that correctly.
I am going to disagree here (agree with Sam). There is nothing wrong with changing oil on the W12 with just the front wheels off the ground. And, it will be safer over putting the entire car up on jack stands. I've changed oil a couple of times this way.
I'll go further. Given the design of the W12 pan, the drain plug is rearward so draining oil with car on a slight incline (nose up) actually aids in draining the pan completely. Keeping the car completely level you'll leave old oil in the pan. Here is a depiction of the W12 oil pan layout. The drain plug (#19) is placed at the rear of the pan.
Thanks guys, I think I will give it a shot with the ramps. Harbor Freight has 6500 LBS capacity ramps with either a 6" or 8" lift height for around $50. I would assume the 8" would make life a little easier.
The challenge with the plastic ramps is getting them to stand still while you're driving onto them. They want to "scoot" out when the wheel makes contact. You'll probably discover you'll have to be creative with some solid stops. Same thing with driving off. Make sure no one is standing in front of the car when you drive off as these can shoot out.
I've tried all of these back in my Corvette/Cobra days. Finally got fed up, especially when I was building my FF Cobra and bit the bullet and went this way. I'm not discouraging you. Go for it and good to see you're not uncomfortable trying.
The challenge with the plastic ramps is getting them to stand still while you're driving onto them. They want to "scoot" out when the wheel makes contact. You'll probably discover you'll have to be creative with some solid stops. Same thing with driving off. Make sure no one is standing in front of the car when you drive off as these can shoot out.
I've tried all of these back in my Corvette/Cobra days. Finally got fed up, especially when I was building my FF Cobra and bit the bullet and went this way. I'm not discouraging you. Go for it and good to see you're not uncomfortable trying.
Nice Atlas 4 post lift BWings! Been thinking about one of these as they look much safer than the 2 posters, and I might be able to get another car or at least a tractor underneath. Will have to have my garage door converted to a vertical lift though.
Nice! Hadn't realized that you could use the drive on platforms to jack things up from there.
Nice job on the factory five! Love the color combo, matching wheel trim and black sidepipes. Had a backdraft rt3 (grey w/ white stripes) with their vms 427x clone, that I bough used with 3k miles on it, but sold it a few years ago for what I paid for it having put 7k miles on it. Low milers seem to make the rounds on ebay pretty often.
I am going to disagree here (agree with Sam). There is nothing wrong with changing oil on the W12 with just the front wheels off the ground. And, it will be safer over putting the entire car up on jack stands. I've changed oil a couple of times this way.
I'll go further. Given the design of the W12 pan, the drain plug is rearward so draining oil with car on a slight incline (nose up) actually aids in draining the pan completely. Keeping the car completely level you'll leave old oil in the pan. Here is a depiction of the W12 oil pan layout. The drain plug (#19) is placed at the rear of the pan.
hello, i am planning to use two race ramp to drain the oil, witha rapide, what do you suggest i do to avoid oil inside the undertray, how it was for you, it seems good no?
hello, i am planning to use two race ramp to drain the oil, witha rapide, what do you suggest i do to avoid oil inside the undertray, how it was for you, it seems good no?
10-25-2019 | 09:27 AM
