Hello All! Ken here and new to this forum. I recently purchased a 2010 Supersports that only has 3000 miles on her. The "B" on the bonnet latch is not popping up when you pull the hood release lever from inside. It also is not aligning up properly. When I looked at the latch I see an adjustment screw that raises and lowers the "B" but then I noticed that there are only 2 screws (front ones) holding the latch in place. If I attach the two rear screws it really pulls the "B" **** down in the front. I have searched on the internet and this forum before posting but I can't find a solution. The latching mechanism doesn't seem to be bent or damaged. Whats going on here?? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Also, can anyone recommend a good repair manual? I see some downloadable ones available but no reviews. I like to work on my vehicles but I know nothing about Bentleys --Yet.

Kind Regards,

Ken

 

I've done this alignment a few times. The hinge assembly with the B popup has slotted holes so it will move around and can be adjusted. Second, the "wings" emblem has slotted holes too. Here is a pic of the grille w/o the emblem. Look as a closeup and you can see the slotted holes.


The method I like to use if the entire grille has been removed and disassembled - (probably what happened in your case).

1. Start with getting the grille remounted and aligned with the hood. Next is the hinge assembly. (it helps if this is pre-assembled and bolts left loose).
2. Start by getting the hinge in a position where the latch works freely and easily. This is an IMPORTANT first alignment step. Tighten the hinge bolts.
3. Then (and only then) assemble the "Wings" emblem, align and tighten. The emblem will find its center when the hinge is aligned and tightened.
4. Final hint on the emblem (because you'll frustrate yourself trying to get the two 6mm nuts installed and tightened on the emblem), install it too with LOOSENED hardware when you assemble the grille and before installing on the hood.

This is the fastest most successful way to get the hinge release working as it should. There are harder ways, but thought I'd just jump right to it.

 

Thank you for you response. I am not against trying this method if I can't get it sorted out with a little less disassembly. Everything else aligns very nicely and I don't know why the grille would have been removed before. I see no signs of any body work and not that it is 100% but the carfax is clean, 1 previous owner who is a collector and only 3k miles on it. I also don't see any indication that there were ever rear bolts in the latch mechanism as there is no paint damage at all around the holes in the latch and there is undamaged paint in the female bolt holes. Could it have been possible that they were never installed?? Odd I know but I get the feeling the previous owner probably never opened the bonnet. I will try and post pics later. Thanks again.

 

Can anyone tell if this latch may be bent more than it was originally designed? Also when I pull the B **** all the way out, the little roller bearing doesn't go all the way to the end of the opening which means the latch doesn't disengage as far as it could (please see the second pic, the **** is as far out as it will go and there is plenty of space in that triangle area). When the **** is aligned perfectly in the wings and bolted using only the front screws, the back of the bonnet release plate is about 1/2" from the hood where the 2 rear bolts go. I am only guessing but I think someone had a hard time getting the bonnet released and finagled it until they got it opened. Then they left the 2 rear bolts out of the latch. The only way I could get it to release was to push down hard on the B. Also the lever that makes the B pop up when the interior release is pulled was sticking and not allowing the **** to go up. I had to bend it slightly because the rivet on the other side of the bearing was catching on the other mechanism. Hopefully someone can decipher what I am trying to say! I really appreciate anyone who can (or at least tries). Regards,

 

It doesn't appear to be bent. Looks normal as much as can be determined in a pic.

Following the same theory in your last post, if there is no evidence the front has ever been disassembled and no evidence of any accidents, likely the same holds true the bracket is not bent.

Since you now have the mechanism in your hands, does it function properly when you move the latch? If there is no binding and the movement is good, then it could possible be the striker that meets latch when the hood is released that is misaligned.

 

The second picture shows the mechanism when I am pulling the **** all the way out. Note the location of the bearing. Is it supposed to go all the way? It is only going half way. It didn't work smoothly until I pried the 2 moving pieces apart slightly. My thought was that the bracket may have been bent after the fact the 2 back bolts were not in place and repeatedly being pushed down or however it was unlatched when it failed.

 

Ken,

I am doing this from recall as I do not have a bracket in hand. Thinking about the way the mechanism works in assembly, when you release the hood latch from the cabin, the hood normally releases the first latches. The center B pops up. To do the final safety release, you grasp the popup, lift it the rest of the way. So, from deduction, I am thinking what you are testing in hand is the B lifting half way when you exercise the mechanism just like it would mounted. then lifting the B the final half releases the last latch.

If you are not seeing the B lift on the initial release then look at how that striker is adjusted. This is all that is left I can think of without being there.

 

Ken, I had a chance to look at mine. On the hinge (with the B) there are two working mechanisms. One that is thicker stamped steel only moves the B halfway up. The thinner stamped steel hook, when moved, extends the B all the way. So, whether mounted or holding in your hand. One lever moves half way, the other all the way extended.

This is a functional hinge. If the B is not extending at all when you release the hood from the cabin, then it must be the striker that is mounted to the front frame member.

 

This is the way my hinge looks with hood opened.

 

Thank you very much for taking the time to send the picture. There is definitely something wrong with mine because when the **** is pulled up as far as it will possibly go, that little bearing is only going half way and therefore the secondary latch is not moving far enough to disengage. I suppose that's why they took the rear bolts off. Thanks again for your help!

 

Upon closer inspection of the pictures, My latch is much fatter around that triangular opening than yours??