Great news Patos,

Where did you weld the pipes and how did you keep it from stripping the coil/spring inside the pipes?

 

Ah, got it. So, if I have this right, you got the cable immovable past the top spoiler position, such that the motor had to learn the stop, and kept it from stripping the end cap.

In my case the gear that engages the two cables in the pipes just keeps turning and stripping against the cable. Gear isn’t damaged, but wonder if I need new cables. They feel stiff, look fine, though, so don’t think that’s it.

However, whenever I’ve done a reinstall, I’ve started with the spoiler in the down position. Wondering if I start in the up position and there was an immediate amp draw increase it would turn back. Will try that out now!

Thanks so much for posting, as at least I know how it works and can better examine the circuit board under no load, load and stall conditions for the motor.

 

I was thinking the same as you regarding starting in upper position so I did that first.
I then took the motor off again and tested it just hanging in the wiring so it ran until it stopped. Then I installed it in the lower position again. Now the motor had lost it initialization and would run until amp draw in top position.
I was a bit sceptic before pressing the button , but I needed to know if the right way was to install it in top position or if it didn't matter.
It doesn't matter.

 

Which two wires do you bridge?

 

Just want to inform that since I welded the pipes it has worked flawlessly.

 

Hi A5kyt,

I'm away from home so can't remember exactly, but can check when I'm back next week. I vaguely recall using a 220K 1/2 watt resistor on a 2 pin connector going to power the motor. As I understand, the warning system is looking for a load on the motor for the startup test, and the resistor causes an amp drop, fooling the computer. Please don't take that as gospel as I suffer from CRS (can't remember s...)

Will check when I get back next week and feel free to PM me if my CRS kicks in and I forget.

Sam

 

I have a similar problem with my spoiler. But in my case I think it’s the mechanism which sits in the wells below the spoiler itself that needs a good degrease and freeing up. How do I go about removing the mechanism? I have located the 8 small screws that appear to hold the mechanism in position inside the trunk lid but the spoiler mechanism don’t appear to come away when giving it a gentle tug. Do I need to get a little more heavy with it, or am I missing some additional securing method? Cheers guys

 

Hi A5kyt, thanks for your patience, back in town today and I'll remove the cover and take a picture right after work. (about 3hrs from now)

Should also state that I got the information from a thread on here, so credit is due to another forum member, but couldn't find the thread with the details.

--- edit --- found the source; ExoticCarDriver provided the solution in 2014 --- Post # 74 here https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4033357

Going to try and follow Patos solution (letting the motor run out and forget it's stop settings. Mine kept running for for a minute or so, so I stopped it by unplugging. Hoping that perhaps I didn't let it run long enough) and give this another go.

 

Ok, if anything, this proves how faulty my memory is. For those looking for a temp workaround to the dash error for a disconnected spoiler motor.

There's no resistor, just a jumper between pins 4 and 10. Glad to take more pics, as I'm leaving it apart to try and fix it in earnest.

Pics below:

 

Hi Guys
Sorry to break into this thread with something that is not completely on this topic, but I am pretty sure that someone in this group can help me........

I have a 2010 GT Speed with a water leak in the trunk / boot - I have been following various other threads looking for a solution

I have had the trunk liner off 4 x times now in my quest to stop the leak - I have had both drain pipes off and cleaned them - they were silted up but not totally blocked

I re-attached the plastic pipes to the bottom drains using superglue & tie wraps as both connections were a bit loose, but the leak still persisted

In reading through this thread, I noticed that on some pics, a couple of people had some sort of sealant around the unit where the top drain hose connects - the Spoiler pipe goes through this unit there also

Both my LHS & RHS units are loose and I cannot get them clipped back in ? - is adding sealer around these units the answer to my leak issue ??

Thanks for your help

 

Yes .

 

As John said above, yes.
Sealant is what you need to use, my left side is nice and tight in place, the right side however was loose, the white gasket and upper clips were loose from the trunk lid, it turned out that the upper clips on the black plastic drain piece had broken off, most likely from the tubes separating and pulling and pushing on this piece, not sure on that, but how else would the clips brake, so I replaced it with the spare from the parts vehicle and used a blue Sealant for added seal and retention.

EDIT: February 15th 2023.
To correct my information as to my previous comment of double sided tape, my memory wasn't to clear that day, there was no double sided tape, it is a white rubber gasket that was somewhat sticky, the black drain piece also had both upper clips broken as stated above, I will also add the pictures of said broken (missing) clips and the white gasket.

Johnny

.

 

Johnny
Thank you for the quick feedback and great pics - your sealing skills look very professional !!

I will try out your idea sometime this week and let you know the outcome

Thanks
Camaz

 

Hi all
As posted earlier in this thread, I stripped out the trunk lid carpet liner (again !!) and tried to seal up what I suspected were the leaking connectors
The sealing job is not as good as Johnny's and neither was the result !! - I still have the leak (see attached pics)

My next thought was to completely remove the trunk liner, cover the main trunk carpet with kitchen roll, close the trunk and go through my "leak detection process" again (leak detection process is) .....
Switch on the engine
Raise the Spoiler
Switch off the engine
Use a watering can to pour water directly into the LH & RH holes under the spoiler

When removing the Trunk lid carpet cover up to now, I have not been disconnecting the "Trunk Open" handle wires - this time I did, and once disconnected, the Trunk would not close. I then "Bridged the Trunk Open handle wires but the trunk would still not close

Next step is to remove the Trunk Open handle from the carpet and try again

I will keep you all posted

Thanks
Camaz

After Sealing - the gaps are filled

After Sealing - the gaps are filled

Before Sealing - You can see the gaps

Before sealing - you can see the gaps

​​​​​​​

 

Thought I'd add to the forum since it's been so much help to me.

I too had a spoiler fault on a GT I just bought. I fixed it for $3.

What you'll need:

4 small hose clamps.
A wire coat hangar.

Symptoms:

Spoiler stuck in the up position.
Warning in the cluster.
Button did nothing.
Reset you could hear the motor running but no movement, eventually it would stop and the fault light returned.

It seems whenever the left battery goes flat, the system has to re calibrate wing position.

It does this by extending the wing. When the wing hits the "stop" the electrical load increases. This takes a few seconds of the motor applying full force to the cable.
Once complete, it should retract in 4 steps.

What happened to mine (and seemingly many others) is the plastic retainer cannot hold the force of the motor and they pop off the cable. The cable then cannot "load" the motor with a resistive force, causing the fault.

Remove the trunk lid lining. (Boot for you Brits)

So here is what the plastic retainer should look like all the time:



If your spoiler is not working and the clip and metal cable housings look like this, stop. This fix will not work for you.

If your cable housings (the metal tubing) are separated and the white nylon covered cable is exposed, this might just work!

The arrows point to two ridges that the clip uses to keep the two cable housings together.

The motor side of the cable housing slides over the wing side.

Here's how I fixed it:

Unplug and remove the motor. 3 torx heads.
Push/thread the cable back in to the tubing. Bend the tubes so the wing side and motor side tubes are mated back together.
Push the wing down manually.
It should basically look like the picture but without the cheap plastic clip.

Tighten two hose clamps, one above and one below leaving it loose as shown:



Now, cut a piece of coat hangar about 2 inches long and bend a U in one end and insert as shown:




Now slide the bottom clamp up to the tubing lip and tighten.

Next slide the top clamp down to the tubing lip and tighten, then bend the hangar over like so:





Now repeat for the other side.

Reinstall the motor, plug it in. Start the car and select the spoiler up position. It should recalibrate.

Worked like a charm!

Probably the last time I'll fix this car for $3.