@flyc2c ,
Thank you !
This worked perfectly, I meant to post on this last summer, I had the original black barrel retainers as seen in my post above, they popped off at least three times, I did your hose clamps and rod fix, and they haven't moved at all, I have had the spoiler up and down many many times without issue.

Thank you again.

@Pablen84 ,
See post number 30 by Flyc2c for a $3 fix.

Johnny

 

Sorry to jump on this thread but I have been having the same problems but haven’t been able to resolve them yet despite the excellent posts.

All my problems started when the battery died in the recent cold snap. I have had numerous issues since then, such as the boot not operating correctly, windows not operating correctly etc. etc. I have sorted some but not others but this is for the spoiler issues. The spoiler popped up ok but then wouldn’t go back down and the warning light came on. Having read through the threads I took the boot lining off and can see that the metal guid tubes had popped off. The the plastic tabs already had zip ties on them so obviously this has happened before. I have tried to zip them back up but as soon as I operate the spoiler it pops them off. I have operated the motor by hand and that also tries to pop them off. The motor itself is quite stiff to turn and at first would only turn one way but now will go both ways. With the motor removed the cables do run in the tubes and I can operate the spoiler by hand.

My questions are;

1 - how freely should the motor turn and how freely should the cable move in the pipes
2 - once the plastic clips are secured how do you recalibrate the motor so it does’t just break them again
3 - if the parts move independently by hand why is it forcing itself apart under power

Any help or suggestions welcome, thanks in advance.

 

Hello @Kpgall ,

1) The motor has a very high torque gearing ⚙️, and therefore is not that easy to turn the small gear with your fingers, more likely to use pliers to turn iirc, the cables on the other hand should move very freely through the tubes when the motor is not in place.

2) To be honest, those plastic clips appear to be weaker than the original black metal tube locking pieces that came original on the vehicle, hence, why people are putting zip ties on these plastic retainers.
I did the 4 hose clamps and pieces of rod as shown by @flyc2c above, it has worked flawlessly ever since, a hint to solving this issue was the tack welding done by @Patos on the tubes of his vehicle, he reported a year later as to still working flawlessly.
I would do the 4 clamps and rod procedure if I were you, it will also explain your question number 3.

3) Because the original tube retainer barrels are worn out, and the now used replacement plastic pieces, even with the zip ties are too weak to withstand the high torque gearing of the motor during the adaption period, and the tubes seperate and bend, sometimes feeding out the cord, because, and this is just my assumption and thinking, the original barrels and the replacement plastic retainers may work at the time of installation, and so many times after, so, I believe as discussed above, the motor stops are amp driven for adaption, because there is also discussion about the position sensors, so with good retainers and a first time of spoiler adaption, the retainers hold, and the motor's on-board control module learns the stops by amps for open and close, and then stores them for the position sensors, but, after a house battery loss of charge, or disconnection, the spoiler motor CM has lost it's memory of stops, and adaption must be learned again, now, depending on how many times this adaption has be performed automatically, the retainers have weakened, and fail.
I did not know this during my rebuild process, I would disconnect the batteries every time after working on the vehicle, even after I installed and test drove the engine transmission package, I would put the GT back in the shop and disconnect the batteries for safety reasons, because sometimes I wasn't there for a month, well, after the retainers popping off for the thrid time, I came to the conclusion that it was my constant disconnecting of the batteries, and for sake of them not popping off again, I did as FlyC2C did, and yes, I have had a dead house battery a few time since her first road trip, but never a spoiler failure since.

​​​​​​Hello @Camaz ,
I somehow missed your post from last April... Sorry

How did you make out with the leak, I see in one of your pictures that the bottom portion appears to be out from it's proper seating place, like it may have broken clips on the lower portion of the drain piece.


Johnny

 

Thanks Jonny, much appreciated feedback. I’m going to try the clamp replacement and see how that goes.

 

Anyone have a step by step to remover the trunk liner to get to the spoiler motor to assess? I get intermittent spoiler faults and tired of it. From whats detailed above, it looks like there is a fix.