2008 GT. The spoiler motor doesn't stop but continue to run even after the spoiler is at the top position.
That forces the wire to continue so that the clips that hold the wire pipes together come loose.
I guess there are some initialization that don't work?
Is it some mechanical system in the motor or amp draw that sense the end stop?
​​​​​​I tested various methods to learn it in, but no luck.
The clips just jumps off. Nothing wrong with the clips. The force is to much because of the motor doesn't learn end stop.
Anyone who has some knowledge about how to learn in the positions?
Is it micro switch controlled or amp draw....?

 

Hello Patos,
I will look tonight to see if I still have the old motor and module housing to see if it has any micro switch setup inside said module/motor unit.


EDIT: As I think about it, micro switches in the motor module housing would not work in any way, so it must be amp draw, as there is nothing else between the motor and the wing cables.. END EDIT.


From what I saw when I removed all items that pertain to the spoiler, there are no micro switches which would lead me to believe that it is done by amp draw, just like the windows and seats.

Here are some pics from my rebuild thread.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html

Johnny


...

 

Amps driven .
Part 13 is ever so brittle and just up to the job .
If the mechanisms under the spoiler , hinges , brackets etc that move dry out of lub it becomes stiff and jerky .Forces are transmitted along the line so to speak and the weakest link ...pops !
Those parts 13 jump off or fracture before it detects it’s amps stop rise .Once they bust it’s a viscous circle .
Sometimes if a one off , a simple re fit and lub does the trick and away you go .

Does it close , stop running from the centre console switch .....you have not said ?

So the way out is to remove the motor , lub the track it’s cog sits on ( seen in JH pics ) That track is nylon kinda wide piece of cord with teeth on .If the teeth at the ends have worn then the motor will meet insufficient resistance as well in a mechanical way ( not electrical ) just keep grinding it cog into the plastic ! You need to inspect that rack .


Part 14 ( with the highlights red ring in your parts pic ) that fractures easy and with araldyte or something strong refix part 13 and beef it up by wrapping strength round it so does continue to pop off .

The whole thing should be free enough to pull up by hand and push back ( ignition off btw ) using you finger nails to get under the spoiler lip to get it up a bit to get your fingers under .It should then pull up easy and push down ........if it’s nice and lubricated .
If it’s stiff or you can’t move it by hand .....strip and lub inc the rack with the cog + nylon cord ......remove the motor it’s easy to do and grease that plastic / nylon rack .


Another Sunday hands on job ......literally in maintenance for these cars .
I know of no other car that’s so hands on .
They are not park up and forget .....esp outside .


While in there ......rear trunk trim removed .....check the drain tubes are well attached and test for patency . I use a strimmer ( bushwhacking) cord .
Those drain tubes have a habit of working loose = trunk turns into a bath ....your air suspension pump is in there waiting to fry .
The holes under the spoiler on the out side are tiny = get clogged easy . As said pull it up next time you wash the car to see the crap that’s accumulated under.Lub as much of the hinge mechanism as you can as well .

 

See one drain .....just pushed on waiting to in a Sod’s law kids way to pop off .....I used a smidge of glue when reassembling, both ends .Theres a second out of shot ,
You can see the black plastic bit that pops off behind the transparent drain Part 13 ..Its that that need carefully reattaching so does not come off .

The two tubes that go under the motor housing have the nylon cord in .
Under the cog ( see the circle on the housing ) the metal tubes are exposed to show a nylon toothed rack .Motor moves the rack , one way for up other for down .
You can put a hex key in the hole to manually turn it in situ ....gauge the stiffness .

Three other seen in the pic undo and remove the motor assembly to see the state of the teeth lub underneath .....the cog n rack .
While the motor is off manually move the spoiler up to see the extent of the teeth on the rack in the “ up “ position.

 

I for one want to thank you and Johnny HotSpur for this info. Although mines is not giving me problems at the moment, just these little nuggets of info on doing pms on certain things are very helpful.

I’m not mechanically in the know like that so whatever I do on this car and complete I run in the house and grab a cookie!! So what would be a good lube to use on these parts? Grease? Spray? Also I was about to start a new thread because I didn’t want to hijack this one but I’ll ask, does the trunk trim come off with taking out a few screws and using a nylon panel tool?

Thanks 🙏🏾

 

Thx .
There are ( from memory) two Philips screw under the bottom edge and I think a hex or two under the warning triangle ( EU spec have triangles ) .
You remove the triangle holder first .Then I think there’s one more hidden by the internal trunk release handle .

Once they are removed it sits a bit loose .
Its held on with those horrible Male / Female sliding plugs .Dont pull it otherwords they fracture .
slide it one way I think out towards you as the lid is open ,
It will drop .Hold it close as now from the inside you have to press our the two “ open illuminated “ lights .
once theses are out remove the trim panal ,
As you see on one my pics a light is just dangling .....once detached ,

Chances are first time you will fracture one of those Male / female sliding things so just use super glue to reattach it .
They have pretty good witness marks on there positions ....so no hassle aligning .

Then away you go “ service “ it all .

And yes it cookie time moment when done

 

Mine goes up and down at the push of the spoiler button but then the warning light on the dash comes on it allows me to operate it once more (going through the three stages ) then locks.out. if I drive away as well get to about 10-15 mph the spoiler raises and lowers and that's it .I changed the motor on the mech as it was very similar to a BMW sunroof motor I inspected original motor and there doesn't seem to be any magnetic pick ups etc on it it's purely a motor same voltages etc it just makes the spoiler raise and lower.and ideas ??

 

I'm having the exact same problem as you Patos. Lubed, cleaned and replaced a number of parts for the mechanism and the mechanism is like a new rolex movement, so I suspect the problem is in the electronics. Some have suggested wear in the umbilical that comes into the trunk, below the spare tire.

Since I'm rarely over 100 when it deploys, I removed the motor and put a resistor on the cable that plugs into it to suppress the dash warning for the spoiler.

Looking forward to see if it's the motor, as I'd like to have this feature back, since it's the sole fault with my car right now.

FYI... there's an updated part for the item that secure the cables https://www.scuderiacarparts.com/par...ning-clip.html which is supposed to be better.

Best of luck.

 

Ouch, sorry to hear that Patos.

I've searched high and low for a pinout with enough detail as to understand the function, but couldn't find one to try and bench test the motor. My suspicion is one of the logic chips (if any) or components on the circuit board attached to the motor is fried and not reacting to the stops. Had the same experience is you, having gone through several sets of clips and listening to that wonderful sound of the metal gear, first pushing and then grinding on the actuator spring.

I've got the part out, so will take a look this weekend to see if I can find something.

 

I have taken the white / cream cover off the mechanism and there is a board it’s green btw under the lid .
How ever I’ve been thinking.
We know there’s a switch on the centre console and a speed sensor somewhere.This speed sensor might have other functions of which one is to send a signal to a module .We know there’s a dash light connected in somewhere as well , which illuminates if there’s a problem , any problem !
The console switch needs to send signals too ...one tap type .
If the “ module “ ( guessing ) is the board inside the motor gear mechanism then it’s needs to communicate with the outside world through wires .
Theses wires are in umbilicals.I think the main one is the LHS as you look at it from the back of the car .

So because everything needs to see and talk to each other , I suspect the module does a quick check of its outside world when you start the car , the light , the sensor , the switch etc .So if a umbilical wire has fractured it can’t do that throws a light .

Spurious symptoms that don’t add up or figure then manifest.

So trace and check continuity of the umbilicals......my money is there is a fractured wire near the trunk hinge(s) .

Motor won’t stop running once it’s started because it’s lost communication with something outside the trunk lid because a wire in a umbilical have broken .It will need a signal from what ever to function correctly.

Or the “ one tap “ function of the console switch has become faulty and jammed on ........has anyone actually changed that or disconnect it to test it out .
unplug it ( ok dash light comes on ) then go for a run over 90 mph and see the spoiler deploys and retracts in the normal way ?

 

Thanks John,

I’ll take a look there 1st. (trunk wires) you may be onto something as this started after being parked outside in the rain and having water ingress into the trunk via clogged trunk drains. Water was in wheel well and trunk lid insulation wet, which is why I thought it may have been corrosion to the umbilical in trunk wheel well but didn’t think to check the wires on the trunk lid, which would have also been wet.

was hoping to find a pin out and logic there, So that I could check the function of those with a multimeter.

eitis has the wiring diagram, but not the logic of function of the leads. Switch itself appears to be momentary, so didn’t think there could be a logic problem.

my experience was the car does a ‘self test’ on startup (since I am disconnecting the battery to remove the motor) , the motor overruns, strips the clips and Keeps running until I disconnect.

haven’t tried a switch disconnect yet, so can try that.

 

Ps,

dash error when the motor is disconnected, but bridging two of the pins to the lead going into the motor with a resistor stops that, so I suspect that the dash error isn’t ‘data’ driven and more of a continuity check.

no errors when the motor is attached, just ‘rip and strip’ with incredible torque.

 

Further to my post #12 .....found these pics .
As you can see the control module is part of the assembly.
I checked the PCB for burnt out components....seemed ok .
My fault was a broken wire in the trunk umbilical.I think later modals did a revision of the black plastic sleeves at the corners to reduce chaffing .
Well that what my tech informs me .He sees a lot of wire fractures .

Of course getting this wet ain’t gonna do it any good either ......blocked drains water seeping were it shouldn’t etc .












“Position sensors “ are under the arm .Look like magnets of some sort .They each have two wires coming out .The arm sits on between the motor and worm gear.
As the motor rotates that square metal thing will change its distance from the senors and they presume count how many times it’s signals .
It will be pre programmed for say ( guess ) 4 or 5 complete revolutions etc then stop .

So maybe ( if there’s no evidence of it burnt out due to water ingress ) attempt to clean it up both the sensor and the metal hub thingy ?

 

After driving a few weeks with the warning lamp I was fed up. I just welded the pipes together to test my theory regarding amp draw would learn the end stop.
I was waiting for the wire to get destroyed since it had broken all the new and improved retaining clips/holders.
Guess what. It's working flawlessly now. It started lerning after on push at the up button and worked since. I just leave it welded.

 

could you show pictures of what you have done I'd be interested in looking into fixing mine soon