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I think you will find it very similar to the Cayenne in reliability, quirks, serviceability and crazy parts costs. Maybe 2x when you’re doing things like plugs/coil packs.(since there’s 12)
On the parts costs, expect sticker shock when it’s not a filter or replaceable and there’s no after market support.
As with any luxury good, expect a big ticket item every few years when the job exceeds your toolset, ability or desire and you have to relent to the dealer for help.
Finally there’s the ‘badge tax’ that servicers will charge.
in all, however somewhat reasonable for a splurge and fairly typical of VAG cars of that era, in my opinion. And of course insurance costs.
This is very grounded advice/ I like it! Funny enough, and specific to insurance costs, I just recently insured my 2011 Supersports...it was 20% cheaper (with the same coverages) as my 2018 C63S
Hi there, just new here. Bought a 2006 GT with 150.000 km in Spain. I am planning to do stuff like you say in the car to cut costs down. Don,t you have by any chance the xreferences with vw / audi of the parts ( filters,spark plugs and the control arms, bushes and all that go wrong due to the weight. )
much appreciated. David
Hi, in my experience with Bentley most of the parts are sourced from Audi A8 W12 or VW Phaeton W12, for example, the oil filter is the same for the 3 models, you can go to an auto parts store and ask for a 2006 Audi A8 W12 oil filter, it will work in you Bentley, all the front suspension control arms, sway bar link kits and rack and pinion rods are the same in Audi A8 and VW Phaeton so they will fit your Bentley.
The tricky thing is that not all parts are interchangeable, for example, the wheel hub bearings are unique in the Bentley so an Audi A8 bearing will not fit as far as i know, the front CV Axles can be sourced from the Audi A8 W12 but not the Phaeton W12 since the overall compressed lenght of the axles are different, but the Audi CV axles rod are thiner by 2 milimeters but the lenght, the splines, and the base is all the same as Bentley (ask me how i know).
The engine air filters are unique for Bentley CGT, the sparkplugs seems to be unique also, but i will try NGK PZFR6J11 the number is almost identical to PZFR6Q11 which are the originals, and both are laser, and they're 1/3rd the price.
The coilpacks are interchangeable in the 3 cars.
If you have questions send me a email jurgeenh@hotmail.com i also speak spanish.
Belt + tensioner every 10 yrs or sooner if the tensioner squeaks a lot at start up then rumbles , or the rubber is visually cracking up .
Its possible to wrestle with it as Is .
A better preferred option around 10 yr is to remove the rad , or a least swing it to service position for better access .
Removal is better as replace the hoses .Better still replace the rad itself as it a semi consumable VAG alloy / dissimilar metal jobbie .
Toss in U.K. salted roads leave to fester a few years and wham bam slam they corrode away and burst = leak .Inside lower area out of sight until you remove it .
Its not if but when !
Do the Alternator o rings at the back of the water cooled VAG alternator......they perish and weep over the electrics = inevitable alternator failings.
Do the Alternator o rings at the back of the water cooled VAG alternator......they perish and weep over the electrics = inevitable alternator failings.
I'm about to pull my engine out in a couple of weeks, and the alternator o-rings are on the list to change.
The part number N90783402 resolves to size 13.1 x 1.6 is readily available in a variety of materials.
Do you have an opinion on whether it might be sensible to use something like Viton rather than whatever VW chose, presumably the cheapest available, originally?
I'm about to pull my engine out in a couple of weeks, and the alternator o-rings are on the list to change.
The part number N90783402 resolves to size 13.1 x 1.6 is readily available in a variety of materials.
Do you have an opinion on whether it might be sensible to use something like Viton rather than whatever VW chose, presumably the cheapest available, originally?
Hi DG ,
Sorry no , my tech a Indy in Leeds U.K. did them while changing a weepy rad + belt .
I asked for the belt as the tensioner was annoyingly squeaky / rumble when cold but “ once in .......” the rest followed .
They run cooler as well ...guess eventually rads must clogg up or fins distort , fill up with dead incests or corrode = basically loose efficiency after a decade or so .
Top + bottom hoses come in a Bentley rad pack worth doing .
The maths work out £180 K new + no bills .But still potential warranty down time / hassle
Or £20-25 K and a few £ K later replacing semi consumables you are still up .
I'm about to pull my engine out in a couple of weeks, and the alternator o-rings are on the list to change.
The part number N90783402 resolves to size 13.1 x 1.6 is readily available in a variety of materials.
Do you have an opinion on whether it might be sensible to use something like Viton rather than whatever VW chose, presumably the cheapest available, originally?
you doing the job yourself? Wow. I was more thinking of maintenance around belt and pulley’s. Do you have to change all pulleys? Also the Rad, is it unique to Bentley or is it linked with other W12 VW brand? Do you have part number please? Thanks
you doing the job yourself? Wow. I was more thinking of maintenance around belt and pulley’s. Do you have to change all pulleys? Also the Rad, is it unique to Bentley or is it linked with other W12 VW brand? Do you have part number please? Thanks
Sorry, I'm being thick, but I can't think of a reason to change all the pulleys. Certainly if the tensioner pulley bearing feels at all rough or loose then I would change it, but I wouldn't contemplate changing the others unless they had suffered physical damage, and if they had, then there would be other, bigger, issues to consider.
The radiator is Bentley only with part number 3W0198115B for the kit with all the hoses (£900) or 4W0121253 as the bare radiator (£500). I might be tempted to get a quote for having it re-cored.
Thanks DG and JF. I currently have a mechanic friend look at it, said my belt is slightly cracked so he suggests that I change belt with the 3 pulleys. DG let me know about Rad as I think a re-core would be pocket friendly with new hoses. Oh I forgot need to get some new TPMS also. Seen good ones on AliExpress.
Thanks DG and JF. I currently have a mechanic friend look at it, said my belt is slightly cracked so he suggests that I change belt with the 3 pulleys. DG let me know about Rad as I think a re-core would be pocket friendly with new hoses. Oh I forgot need to get some new TPMS also. Seen good ones on AliExpress.
Here's a picture of the front of the W12 which I have shamelessly pinched from elsewhere on the forum. As you can see, there are far more than three pulleys, which is why I remain confused as to which three of those, other than the tensioner, one might choose to change.
If anyone else is reading this and thinks I'm being terminally thick then please do chime in and explain what I'm missing.
I'll chip in as it's the only way to learn! I *think* I see three idlers. One either side of the crank pulley and one top right. No idea if they *are* idlers, but seems plausible.
I think the confusion is the use of the terms "all" and "pulleys", of course one would NOT change out the following pulleys, such as, water pump, A/C compressor, power steering, alternator, and the crankshaft pulley, unless they had an issue with either of these pulleys, although one would change out the two serpentine belt idlers with their built in pulleys, and the serpentine belt tensioner and it's idler/pulley as @CatmanV2 stated, and as your indy stated @H-M3 .
Here is a picture of my 2014 engine showing said pulleys in red to change.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 05-03-2021 at 07:16 AM.
Reason: Add picture
01-27-2020 | 10:36 AM
