Does anyone do their own maintenance on their Bentley?
#4
01-23-2020 | 09:10 AM
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 414
From: switzerland
Rep Power: 53
Not really if you take a helicopter view .
As said 1/2 is DIY er able some you need Bentley experience from guys seeing stuff as a day job with access to Specialist software.
A lot is just time / age related .Another lot is actually preventable, the electrical issues tend to revolve around drain hygiene.
The dice of continual hassle and expense is loaded against you if you keep it outside and don’t bother with a trickle charger .
This Question obviously pops up a lot on Bentley social media .
I have this copied in my notes to give you an idea .
A lot of the parts fortunately are found on the VW Faeton and Audi A8 , in some cases exact fit for 1/3 rd of the price .Its as if the black B winged box costs .eg Front lower control arm in the U.K. £105 + tax from Eurocar parts with Audi rings on ,comes in a poly bag .Or from say “ Flying Spares “ in a nice Bentley logo box for £350 ......and it too has Audi rings stamped on the arm .
Theses arms last 20/30 thousand miles tops due to the weight .Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “
Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .
Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .
Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.
Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .
Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.
Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .
Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .
Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.
Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.
A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .
EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.
Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .
Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .
Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history . To see where you are on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/...pur-2003-2012/
As said 1/2 is DIY er able some you need Bentley experience from guys seeing stuff as a day job with access to Specialist software.
A lot is just time / age related .Another lot is actually preventable, the electrical issues tend to revolve around drain hygiene.
The dice of continual hassle and expense is loaded against you if you keep it outside and don’t bother with a trickle charger .
This Question obviously pops up a lot on Bentley social media .
I have this copied in my notes to give you an idea .
A lot of the parts fortunately are found on the VW Faeton and Audi A8 , in some cases exact fit for 1/3 rd of the price .Its as if the black B winged box costs .eg Front lower control arm in the U.K. £105 + tax from Eurocar parts with Audi rings on ,comes in a poly bag .Or from say “ Flying Spares “ in a nice Bentley logo box for £350 ......and it too has Audi rings stamped on the arm .
Theses arms last 20/30 thousand miles tops due to the weight .Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “
Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .
Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .
Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.
Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .
Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.
Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .
Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .
Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.
Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.
A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .
EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.
Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .
Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .
Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history . To see where you are on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/...pur-2003-2012/
#5
01-23-2020 | 10:25 AM
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 513
From: nj
Rep Power: 39
I think you will find it very similar to the Cayenne in reliability, quirks, serviceability and crazy parts costs. Maybe 2x when you’re doing things like plugs/coil packs.(since there’s 12)
On the parts costs, expect sticker shock when it’s not a filter or replaceable and there’s no after market support.
As with any luxury good, expect a big ticket item every few years when the job exceeds your toolset, ability or desire and you have to relent to the dealer for help.
Finally there’s the ‘badge tax’ that servicers will charge.
in all, however somewhat reasonable for a splurge and fairly typical of VAG cars of that era, in my opinion. And of course insurance costs.
On the parts costs, expect sticker shock when it’s not a filter or replaceable and there’s no after market support.
As with any luxury good, expect a big ticket item every few years when the job exceeds your toolset, ability or desire and you have to relent to the dealer for help.
Finally there’s the ‘badge tax’ that servicers will charge.
in all, however somewhat reasonable for a splurge and fairly typical of VAG cars of that era, in my opinion. And of course insurance costs.
Last edited by sam08861; 01-23-2020 at 10:30 AM.
#7
01-23-2020 | 09:02 PM
Gone, But Not Forgotten.
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 575
From: Chicago
Rep Power: 40
Mine was well cared-for, but had 64,000 miles (2005). I needed a thermostat changed, and went ahead and did all 12 spark plugs then. My specialist is good about suggesting prophylactic part replacement on high-labor items, if he's in there, might as well change the wearable stuff out even if it's still working.
Engine light came on again, so I had to sort this thing out, spent a fortune. If I could have lived with it glaring at me, I could have kept driving without noticing the difference, but I can't. Got both turbo controllers changed (one was bad the was the check engine light), while they had the engine out, I had them change the O2 sensors and some related part, then put in the steel vacuum lines even though my vacuum lines were still good, but they were plastic and doomed to fail. That was a solid $8,000 bill, but since then, not a single burble or problem. I've only driven a couple thousand of miles (I don't drive it much) but absolutely nothing is wrong, everything works perfectly.
I think the advice above is good. Most of the horror stories seem to be water-related. I keep mine garaged, but without a trickle charger and I've gotten away with that so far. I am planning on being proactive about the battery change, I think I'll do it right before next winter, just to make sure the gremlins stay away. I had a "Gasp!" experience when my stereo installer (who kept my car outside in the pouring rain) opened my trunk and showed me the standing water, maybe 2" in the spare wheel well. Ends up that the trunk foam seal was loose, I bought some glue and glued it on and no more water. But I know that water in the wheel well can cause all sorts of terrible things to happen.
None of the work, other than perhaps the spark plugs, could I have done on my own. Pulling the engine is scary complicated (see Johnny's "rebuild" thread).
Engine light came on again, so I had to sort this thing out, spent a fortune. If I could have lived with it glaring at me, I could have kept driving without noticing the difference, but I can't. Got both turbo controllers changed (one was bad the was the check engine light), while they had the engine out, I had them change the O2 sensors and some related part, then put in the steel vacuum lines even though my vacuum lines were still good, but they were plastic and doomed to fail. That was a solid $8,000 bill, but since then, not a single burble or problem. I've only driven a couple thousand of miles (I don't drive it much) but absolutely nothing is wrong, everything works perfectly.
I think the advice above is good. Most of the horror stories seem to be water-related. I keep mine garaged, but without a trickle charger and I've gotten away with that so far. I am planning on being proactive about the battery change, I think I'll do it right before next winter, just to make sure the gremlins stay away. I had a "Gasp!" experience when my stereo installer (who kept my car outside in the pouring rain) opened my trunk and showed me the standing water, maybe 2" in the spare wheel well. Ends up that the trunk foam seal was loose, I bought some glue and glued it on and no more water. But I know that water in the wheel well can cause all sorts of terrible things to happen.
None of the work, other than perhaps the spark plugs, could I have done on my own. Pulling the engine is scary complicated (see Johnny's "rebuild" thread).
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#8
01-24-2020 | 03:59 AM
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1
From: barcelona
Rep Power: 0
Hi there, just new here. Bought a 2006 GT with 150.000 km in Spain. I am planning to do stuff like you say in the car to cut costs down. Don,t you have by any chance the xreferences with vw / audi of the parts ( filters,spark plugs and the control arms, bushes and all that go wrong due to the weight. )
much appreciated. David
much appreciated. David
#10
01-24-2020 | 08:42 AM
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 887
From: Indianapolis
Rep Power: 56
Hell post what your looking for in here. You never know with members from all around who may see something that fits your liking. If your in the US I would probably stay in the south, no salt to eat at the car. But it’s good to keep your options open. But remember, you’ll have this forum to fall back on.
Last edited by TeamJones1962; 01-24-2020 at 02:31 PM.
#13
01-25-2020 | 04:08 PM
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 3,431
From: Montgomery NJ
Rep Power: 1002
Johnny
#14
01-26-2020 | 06:19 AM
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 35
From: England
Rep Power: 0
Not really if you take a helicopter view .
As said 1/2 is DIY er able some you need Bentley experience from guys seeing stuff as a day job with access to Specialist software.
A lot is just time / age related .Another lot is actually preventable, the electrical issues tend to revolve around drain hygiene.
The dice of continual hassle and expense is loaded against you if you keep it outside and don’t bother with a trickle charger .
This Question obviously pops up a lot on Bentley social media .
I have this copied in my notes to give you an idea .
A lot of the parts fortunately are found on the VW Faeton and Audi A8 , in some cases exact fit for 1/3 rd of the price .Its as if the black B winged box costs .eg Front lower control arm in the U.K. £105 + tax from Eurocar parts with Audi rings on ,comes in a poly bag .Or from say “ Flying Spares “ in a nice Bentley logo box for £350 ......and it too has Audi rings stamped on the arm .
Theses arms last 20/30 thousand miles tops due to the weight .Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “
Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .
Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .
Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.
Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .
Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.
Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .
Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .
Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.
Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.
A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .
EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.
Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .
Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .
Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history . To see where you are on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/...pur-2003-2012/
As said 1/2 is DIY er able some you need Bentley experience from guys seeing stuff as a day job with access to Specialist software.
A lot is just time / age related .Another lot is actually preventable, the electrical issues tend to revolve around drain hygiene.
The dice of continual hassle and expense is loaded against you if you keep it outside and don’t bother with a trickle charger .
This Question obviously pops up a lot on Bentley social media .
I have this copied in my notes to give you an idea .
A lot of the parts fortunately are found on the VW Faeton and Audi A8 , in some cases exact fit for 1/3 rd of the price .Its as if the black B winged box costs .eg Front lower control arm in the U.K. £105 + tax from Eurocar parts with Audi rings on ,comes in a poly bag .Or from say “ Flying Spares “ in a nice Bentley logo box for £350 ......and it too has Audi rings stamped on the arm .
Theses arms last 20/30 thousand miles tops due to the weight .Heavy cars with a lot of weight up front + age so figure most of this ....Suspension bushes , lower arm and both upper , have short lives compared to “ normal “
Power steering pipes corrode there are three , two fairly easy one may need heat .If that fails a new rack .Track rod ends .Geometry ....absolutely important the difference between correct set up and a little off is huge in terms of steering feed back and overall feel of the car. Alloy radiator in a salted road environment has a life it will corrode and leak .Poly bent is life d for 10 years .Its tensioners too ought to be replaced at the same time ....this is a front end + rad off job .Alternator coolant pipes £2 gasket perishes at about 10 + years onwards ....leaks and kills it - another front end “ off “ job .
Exhaust gas temp sensors - actually it’s the wiring that heat degrades .
Scuttle drains blockage = complete engine ECU destruction.
Aircon drip tray drains blockage = wet relay box under the front passenger foot well and damp key less go relays = burnt out starter motor ( amongst other things ) .New starter motor requires engine out @ £5 k + mostly labour .
Blocked rear boot lid or loose drain tubes = boot fills up with water = knackered suspension air pump = dropped wheels making recovery v difficult.
Various aircon HVAC micro motors control flaps not working = poor temp control.Rear spoiler wires in the umbilical fracturing = rear spoiler packing up .
Front hood latch miss alignment = broken micro switch in the sensors .
Chartwells body shop has a steady steam of repairs to the A pillar when bonets fly up inadvertently.
Inner front disk corrosion as the inner pistons cease and don’t press hard enough = mot hassles.Head light washer inoperable due to coagulation of dissimilar fluids restricting the pipe diameter and insufficient pressure to operate.
A host of check engine lights due to low voltage “ house battery “ and stuff like widows dropping when ECU s run low on volts .
EPB hassle like any other VAG car —- Mostly a water ingress issue.
Seat back locked micro switches fracturing , Front hood closed micro switch failure .
Some historic stuff ( as most will have had it repaired by now ) 3 rd brake light water ingress = fails .Headlining drops glue deteriorated.I guess all older inc 04 /05 will be on @ least the 2nd set of vac pipes .The replacement part is same plastic ......so a 12/14 plater is maturing nicely waiting to start leaking .
Apart from ^^^^^ . They are great .
Keep it undercover and on a trickle charger .
Oh mileage .....irrelevant as the W12 is bomb proof ...it’s the rest of the car so buy on history ....a deep detailed history . To see where you are on the perpetual merry go round of replace / repair .
https://differentcarreview.com/2019/...pur-2003-2012/
so driving the car was an ordeal. 3. The boot stopped closing so I couldn't lock the car. I ordered a £20 battery tender, left it on overnight and in the morning the airbag light went off and the boot closed and locked. I now put the GT on charge a couple of times a week.Very thankful for all the excellent advice on this forum ......
I am NOT that much of a DIYer!!!! Lol!