Fluid Types and Capacities?
#1
Fluid Types and Capacities?
Unlike most car Owner Manuals, the CGT manual does not have a listing of fluid types and capacities.
Is that info available somewhere on line? I'm specifically looking to know what type of fluid to add to my power steering reservoir. It is currently showing in the MIN area of the dip stick on the cap.
Also, is fluid level checked with the engine running or switched off?
Much thanks.
Is that info available somewhere on line? I'm specifically looking to know what type of fluid to add to my power steering reservoir. It is currently showing in the MIN area of the dip stick on the cap.
Also, is fluid level checked with the engine running or switched off?
Much thanks.
#2
Should have two manuals in the book pack .
The leather bound owners ....how to operate, switches etc and a thinner technical book with the fuse diagrams , changing spare , bulbs and fluids type / vol etc .
I,ll have a look in the morning and take a pic of the relevant page .iirc it’s a special green hydraulic fluid called CHF - Central Hydraulic Fluid .
That’s why the cap is green on the reservoir btw .
, NOT the regular red PAS .
Mine started to need to topping up say a bit every 6 months ......the PAS pipes corrode .Theres one in particular accessed under a wheel well, the side with the reservoir that goes first .Three in all , best to get all three done while in .Unfortunately one usually requires heat to loosen off , 50 % loosen the other half do not and necessities removal of the rack .Mine came off ok + some heat on the worst one of the three .
If the bad weepy one is real stuck even with the rack out on the bench it’s easy to knacker the threads ,or snap off the alloy nipple and basically bust the rack beyond repair.
So find a tech that’s done a few and knows the work arounds , or swallow a big “ brave pill “ and have a go yourself ?
The leather bound owners ....how to operate, switches etc and a thinner technical book with the fuse diagrams , changing spare , bulbs and fluids type / vol etc .
I,ll have a look in the morning and take a pic of the relevant page .iirc it’s a special green hydraulic fluid called CHF - Central Hydraulic Fluid .
That’s why the cap is green on the reservoir btw .
, NOT the regular red PAS .
Mine started to need to topping up say a bit every 6 months ......the PAS pipes corrode .Theres one in particular accessed under a wheel well, the side with the reservoir that goes first .Three in all , best to get all three done while in .Unfortunately one usually requires heat to loosen off , 50 % loosen the other half do not and necessities removal of the rack .Mine came off ok + some heat on the worst one of the three .
If the bad weepy one is real stuck even with the rack out on the bench it’s easy to knacker the threads ,or snap off the alloy nipple and basically bust the rack beyond repair.
So find a tech that’s done a few and knows the work arounds , or swallow a big “ brave pill “ and have a go yourself ?
Last edited by John Fiammetta; 03-01-2020 at 10:50 PM.
#4
Greatly appreciated John! I'm guessing I can't find that at a regular auto parts store?
I recently bought the car from the original owner who was on death's door. It was sold for him by a friend.
Due to the circumstances I was unable to acquire any other documentation besides the owner manual. I was lucky to get that plus the extra full function key.
I recently bought the car from the original owner who was on death's door. It was sold for him by a friend.
Due to the circumstances I was unable to acquire any other documentation besides the owner manual. I was lucky to get that plus the extra full function key.
#7
I take mine ( uk reg ) to a Bentley / RR specialist for its MOT and effectively throw in its annual oil change as a sort of lost leader for them .
They make a point of the Mobile 0W40W .
I have a piece of paper annually in the file ( techs invoice) with the correct spec .....woefully hopefully one day from a residual POV it my help sell it ??
I know it’s expensive but it’s the 0 bit the low temp cold start that’s important on one hand to lub up the turbo bearings and others and the 40 for when it’s gets hot .
It’s pretty tight in there and the heat dissipation management looks critical.
I know I cruise around 2000 rpm with the odd foray north of 3500 , so my car I hope gets an easy life .
Having said all this you never hear of actual engine + turbo trouble with theses and there will be some running round with different oil , super extended change times, and as thrashed as you can get .
Would have thought the most vulnerable parts are the twin turbos , there bearings will fry first if the oil is not up to the job .
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#8
Ah and oil thread about erupt !
I take mine ( uk reg ) to a Bentley / RR specialist for its MOT and effectively throw in its annual oil change as a sort of lost leader for them .
They make a point of the Mobile 0W40W .
I have a piece of paper annually in the file ( techs invoice) with the correct spec .....woefully hopefully one day from a residual POV it my help sell it ??
I know it’s expensive but it’s the 0 bit the low temp cold start that’s important on one hand to lub up the turbo bearings and others and the 40 for when it’s gets hot .
It’s pretty tight in there and the heat dissipation management looks critical.
I know I cruise around 2000 rpm with the odd foray north of 3500 , so my car I hope gets an easy life .
Having said all this you never hear of actual engine + turbo trouble with theses and there will be some running round with different oil , super extended change times, and as thrashed as you can get .
Would have thought the most vulnerable parts are the twin turbos , there bearings will fry first if the oil is not up to the job .
I take mine ( uk reg ) to a Bentley / RR specialist for its MOT and effectively throw in its annual oil change as a sort of lost leader for them .
They make a point of the Mobile 0W40W .
I have a piece of paper annually in the file ( techs invoice) with the correct spec .....woefully hopefully one day from a residual POV it my help sell it ??
I know it’s expensive but it’s the 0 bit the low temp cold start that’s important on one hand to lub up the turbo bearings and others and the 40 for when it’s gets hot .
It’s pretty tight in there and the heat dissipation management looks critical.
I know I cruise around 2000 rpm with the odd foray north of 3500 , so my car I hope gets an easy life .
Having said all this you never hear of actual engine + turbo trouble with theses and there will be some running round with different oil , super extended change times, and as thrashed as you can get .
Would have thought the most vulnerable parts are the twin turbos , there bearings will fry first if the oil is not up to the job .
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