Hi,

I have a 2004 CGT. I have an outdoor extension cord going into the trunk to charge the battery during covid. I left the trunk in down position but not latched.

My GF went to drive the car and didn't see the extension cord. She forced the trunk down and closed the trunk and jamming the extension cord.

Here is the situation:

1. Battery OK
2. Dashboard indicate trunk is open light
3. Remote button to open trunk - nothing
4. Driver side switch to open trunk - nothing
5. Trunk emergency latch switch on interior trunk lid - nothing
6. Emergency latch behind passenger rear seat cable seems to be broken. I see broken strands of metal wires. The latch move from left to right freely. Not sure if it was broken previously or due to this incident

I managed to cut the extension cord and use a catch pole to remove the pinched extension cord but the trunk light is still on.

I think somehow the car think the trunk is open so it won't react to any electronic open command.

Any idea on how to proceed? I have the RossTech vagcom and also the dealer diagnostic tool. Any way to trick the car into thinking the trunk is closed so the electronic switch might work?

 

Perhaps pushing down hard on the lid while someone operates the interior switch or presses the B logo? Might just be enough to make it seem closed. BTW, I use a flat extension cable like this one https://amzn.to/31mH45T which allows me to completely close the lid without damage to the cable or gasket.

 

Thanks BruceR. Will Try

 

Just tried. No dice.

Any other ideas?

 

That was just a shot in the dark. If you don't hear a click when pressing the button you might want to verify the fuse didn't blow.

 

Looks like the fuse for the bootlid is also located in the trunk.

When I press the remote open, no motor moving. Just tail light blinking twice.

 

Not sure if you found this thread. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...bad-trunk.html. There seems to be a way to get VCDS/Vagcom to cycle the boot lock, but I have no idea how, just got my car a few weeks ago and still figuring thing out.

As a last resort you can pull out the rear tail lights, $2000 problem if it goes wrong though.

 

Thanks. I'll hook up my VCDS and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the thread.

He seems to have the same issue like I do.

Before going to reach my toilet plunger, I wonder if anyone can take a look at my emergency release cable and see if it is still salvagable.

 

But of course! You didn't mention if you tried pressing the B emblem on the lid so just reminding to try that too while pressing down.
I don't know if it's part of the same broken cable but there's also a pull tab if one were to be locked in the trunk but I don't know ho you'd reach it.

 

I would give it a try with a pair of vicegrips - nothing to lose now.

 

As Iain stated, use a pair of visegrips, but with either visegrips or pliers first gently pull the cable out as far as you can to get to a solid section of the cable instead of clamping on those few strands.

As Bruce stated, did you try a broomstick approach on the electrical emergency release lever on the inside of the bootlid, by going through the trunk access between the rear seats ?

The two emergency release options are completely separate from each other, your broken cable being a manual device, whereas the locked in trunk plastic glowing lever is a electrical release, meaning no cable, just a microswitch.

So, as others have suggested, have someone with great strength apply heavy force down on the bootlid while another tries all of the electrical release options, door switch, "B" on boot, key-fob, and lastly the broomstick approach for the electrical side of release, if all fails then go to the manual release, BUT PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL,
I almost took out my front teeth when I was doing the same with a broken cable just as you have, the visegrips slipped off and I punched myself in the mouth, lots of cursing, I then went out and gave the bootlid a few shots (palm of hands) then pulled the cable more, the latch started to move so a few more taps on the bootlid and a last pull on the cable and it popped, now mind you, if I had someone else pushing on the bootlid while I pulled the cable, it would have been much easier, when you are pulling the cable you are actually pulling the latch off of the catch, so any downward force will help in reducing the friction between the two.

Good luck !

Johnny

 

Thanks Johnny, Ian, and Bruce.

I tried the broomstick with emergency release switch at the interior of trunk. No dice.

I will try the pressing boot down with weight (maybe I'll sit on it) and try the switches.

If that doesn't work, I'll do your manual method with a face shield.


From understanding, there is a round clip that clip onto the cable (in blue arrow). Right of the round clip, there is a metal cylinderical object. Is the cylinderical metal part of the cable (red circle)? I'm thinking of trying to pry that part toward right side so I can grip the actual cable left of the cylinderical object.

 

I don't have XRay vision (nor am I faster than a speeding locomotive) but I visualize the problem as the latch being stuck somewhere between opened and closed. Pushing down hard may force a full closure which could then be opened. On the other hand, pulling up quickly might back it out so give that a shot too. Be careful handling the cable strands as they can be VERY sharp! Twist them a bit before pulling.

 

If pushing on the lid doesn't get it to work, then go the manual route. I would only pull the purple wire strands, if you move the sleeve ( red circle) so the strands disappear inside, then there is no way to get them back out. Like Johnny says, pull them out a little bit to see if you can get a good grip on them, maybe even get them to wrap around the end of the pliers to get a proper grip, then pull like mad whilst someone pushes on the boot lid. I think needle nose vicegrips would be the best thing to use. https://www.irwin.com/tools/locking-...th-wire-cutter

Good luck, an let us know how you go.