Another day, another Engine pull
#16
Hello @Zaos ,
Not to pour salt in the wound, but I have to ask what happened to cause a second drop of the drive train, as I had asked back in 2017 in your pulled my engine thread if you had taken care of the plastic lines at the back of the engine itself, but I never saw a response, I sincerely hope that was not the issue now..
Johnny
.
#18
Yeah, I removed all plastic lines and they are holding just perfectly see picture below: I replaced the plastic lines with metal brake lines
No leaks here. If this was leaking I would not been a happy camper....
But here is the leak!! Looks like I tightened the hose clamp little too much and the rubber sheared over time. Here too you can see plastic is replaced with metal lines and tees
Here, you can really see the value of having a smoke tester..
Arrow shows clearly the rubber sheared here below the steering rack. Only way was to pull the engine again All labor and less than 25 cents worth of parts. Maybe I'll create a longer rubber line to give it more flexibility
No leaks here. If this was leaking I would not been a happy camper....
But here is the leak!! Looks like I tightened the hose clamp little too much and the rubber sheared over time. Here too you can see plastic is replaced with metal lines and tees
Here, you can really see the value of having a smoke tester..
Arrow shows clearly the rubber sheared here below the steering rack. Only way was to pull the engine again All labor and less than 25 cents worth of parts. Maybe I'll create a longer rubber line to give it more flexibility
Last edited by Zaos; 07-16-2021 at 11:42 AM.
#20
Johnny
.
#22
Dunno if I agree,
I would say a severe shear like this is more that just solving it with an Oetiker style clamp (thin or not). Never was a fan of them anyways, since they only provide 1x use and difficult to remove (because only due to low cost to manufacturer and quick to install). I could just as easily over clamp them as anything else. Thinking the hose did not have enough flexibility being too short, likely when remounting engine and deteriorating over time. Remember, I went from plastic to metal lines. This changes a lot! since they are much harder than the plastic ones. A metal line, could easily cut the rubber, after vibrating over time as lines flexes. This particular line connects directly from the chassis to the engine, unlike the others.
None of the other clamps, showing nothing and seems solid.
Loosely Goosely seems like the path I am going at the moment. I am all ears to hear from you, since, I am not about to pull my engine 3x....lol
~ZaOs~
I would say a severe shear like this is more that just solving it with an Oetiker style clamp (thin or not). Never was a fan of them anyways, since they only provide 1x use and difficult to remove (because only due to low cost to manufacturer and quick to install). I could just as easily over clamp them as anything else. Thinking the hose did not have enough flexibility being too short, likely when remounting engine and deteriorating over time. Remember, I went from plastic to metal lines. This changes a lot! since they are much harder than the plastic ones. A metal line, could easily cut the rubber, after vibrating over time as lines flexes. This particular line connects directly from the chassis to the engine, unlike the others.
None of the other clamps, showing nothing and seems solid.
Loosely Goosely seems like the path I am going at the moment. I am all ears to hear from you, since, I am not about to pull my engine 3x....lol
~ZaOs~
Last edited by Zaos; 07-17-2021 at 11:49 AM.
#23
Hello @Zaos ,
I see it as the one time use Oetiker clamps will only clamp to a certain clamping force when the proper tool is used to install them, whereas the worm type that you have used will not stop at the correct tightness, which can and have been overtightened, I have done it myself in the past, then the thin band cuts into the hose.
It also appears to me that some of your clamps may be to tight, like in your picture attached below.
Just my observation 😀
Johnny
.
I see it as the one time use Oetiker clamps will only clamp to a certain clamping force when the proper tool is used to install them, whereas the worm type that you have used will not stop at the correct tightness, which can and have been overtightened, I have done it myself in the past, then the thin band cuts into the hose.
It also appears to me that some of your clamps may be to tight, like in your picture attached below.
Just my observation 😀
Johnny
.
#24
Hello @Zaos ,
I see it as the one time use Oetiker clamps will only clamp to a certain clamping force when the proper tool is used to install them, whereas the worm type that you have used will not stop at the correct tightness, which can and have been overtightened, I have done it myself in the past, then the thin band cuts into the hose.
It also appears to me that some of your clamps may be to tight, like in your picture attached below.
Just my observation 😀
Johnny
.
I see it as the one time use Oetiker clamps will only clamp to a certain clamping force when the proper tool is used to install them, whereas the worm type that you have used will not stop at the correct tightness, which can and have been overtightened, I have done it myself in the past, then the thin band cuts into the hose.
It also appears to me that some of your clamps may be to tight, like in your picture attached below.
Just my observation 😀
Johnny
.
#25
I'm intrigued by this because I've got my engine out at the moment, to change the transmission, and am going to replace all the vacuum hoses whilst I'm at it.
What you haven't mentioned is changing all six vacuum solenoids whilst you're doing everything else.
I appreciate that one has to stop somewhere, but for the price it seems a no brainer to do them.
What you haven't mentioned is changing all six vacuum solenoids whilst you're doing everything else.
I appreciate that one has to stop somewhere, but for the price it seems a no brainer to do them.
#26
@Johnny Hotspur GT You could not be more correct. I totally over tightened my vacuum lines, causing their failure. Wish I learned earlier, but they always worked. However, if I weren't such a tight A$$ like I am, it would be fine. I am still not a fan of the Oetiker clamps, but learned not to screw them too much .......
Definitely making me a tight A$$
Definitely making me a tight A$$
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 08-17-2021 at 12:17 PM. Reason: Word
#27
Those vacuum solenoids on the other hand are, I think, essential to change.
#30
Spent the weekend finally putting it together. Had some issues with the exhaust studs shearing, so I had to buy an acetylene torch and knock them out. I took my time being much more rewarding doing it slowly.
Only got the wheel arches to put back on and hopefully all works. Pulling a w12 Bentley engine, is probably one of the most difficult engines ever had to pull lol....
Only got the wheel arches to put back on and hopefully all works. Pulling a w12 Bentley engine, is probably one of the most difficult engines ever had to pull lol....
Last edited by Zaos; 08-16-2021 at 10:42 AM.