Hey everyone,

TDLR: Trunk / Boot stuck shut, door switch doesn’t work. I have 2 3 button keys, none open, hazard lights flash like it’s unlocking but no sound. When B is pushed at back of lid it’s the same hazard flash. No valet or trunk opened icons in dash.

So I just got the car a month ago and aside from some minor issues it has been great, so far put about 5000KM. No problems. Prior it has been sitting a while.

This week I decided since I have no idea the age of the batteries that I would charge them since I ran the car through ODIS via 5054A and noticed a few electrical faults. I used a NOCO battery maintainer on the car batteries overnight and charged them up. Fast forward to today I closed the trunk lid and took it for a drive and I suddenly have Traction control light come on then my parking break light in the middle cluster.

Once I got home I ran it through ODIS again and noticed through Guided Fault Testing that the trunk lid wasn’t opening like it did the day before. That’s when I realized I had an issue. Another concerning thing is that there is now way more electrical codes including steering position sensors and other ABS brake related codes that were not there before.

Did I blow up my batteries by attempting to charge them? All I did was plugged the NOCO onto the contacts and put it on maintainer mode. I’m concerned for the worst right now but I do have some good troubleshooting tools at hand but looking for someone with some knowledge to possibly provide some input or help? My dealer is 2 hours away. Panic mode is setting in, I have just now read about the serious electrical caution to take with these cars when working with the batteries.

Any advice would be much appreciated. I am just hoping it’s a straight up battery / fuse issue…

 

It seems very unlikely that you have damaged anything, so I wouldn't fear the worst, yet

C

 

I would make a note of the codes. Save then on your 5054a then clear all the codes and go for a drive. Recheck for error codes again and note which ones have come back on if any.
These cars and many other modern cars are very susceptible to low voltage and throw all sorts of non related error codes.

 

Hello @1337group ,
How did you make out ?

Johnny

 

Johnny, thanks for asking. I cleared all my codes and bought brand new batteries from my Audi dealer as mine were 6 years old. I was able to get the trunk open by manual release but it’s still pooched, no change all, the same behaviours.

After charging it all back up and running a scan I had continuous faults for the rear body control module which I can’t locate still. The activation function on diagnostic test mode reads no communication.

Fast forward to last night. I noticed a fault in the left rear window module. I have basically ripped apart the whole rear end of the vehicle and pulled the connector to the window module… water damage corrosion. I cleaned it with 99% alcohol and the board, heat gun dry. Now I’m getting vehicle inclination sensor which I believe is in the middle of the Center console in rear seat area. There was a fast food cup in the back seat that had got so hot sitting in the car half it’s contents have leaked into the cup holder which I believe has now seeped into the wiring beneath.

So for now it looks like battery out and car stays off until I can basically tear all the wiring out and look for any trace of corrosion. My car is starting to look like your restoration pictures. Not a situation I want to be in.

Any and all advice is appreciated.

 

Hello @1337group ,
How did you make out after our last phone conversation ?

Johnny

 

I have been meaning to follow up on this thread. Thanks again Johnny for all your help.

So my original issue was that somehow the read lid part of CCM was coded incorrectly during diagnostics. It was set to 40 instead of 32. Once coding was corrected I was able to get power to the trunk lid area. However then the car would not physically latch and lock.

The manual release lever was wound way too tight and snug against the latch switch forcing it to stay open. I made the decision to remove the manual release assembly altogether. I drilled a hole through the lid cover to release the trunk in emergency scenarios as the cable was ruined anyways. Here is the part I was talking about.







Once again I would like to thank Johnny for personally taking the time out of his day to help and support me. Speaking with a likeminded individual with a wealth of knowledge certainly made my experience less painful. Having support resources like this makes ownership of these types of vehicles much more realistic for the DIY guys looking to maintain these cars.

 

Thank you @1337group for your very kind words !

I am happy to be helpful, and glad it worked out.

I like the job you did with the carpet and removal of the manual release mechanism, now in a dead battery situation you just pass a rod through the pass-through, pop out the carpet plug, and hit the latch release, and the emergency body stuck in trunk release still works, as it is electric.

Very cool work around, no more removal of lower and upper rear seat to reach the factory emergency release lever that hardly ever works, or brakes !

Johnny

 

This is great information,

I am having a similar issue, where my trunk (boot) does not open and found out that my manual release was broken. Now I an stuck, but trying to understand exactly how to do this. I am guessing, first step is to drill out the lining top of the trunk, but the rest of the pictures does not make much sense to me. Help would be greatly appreciated

~ZaOs~