Is there anything special with a CGT ? 2004 ? Any tips ?
I have a ezy bleed pressure kit and used it before successfully on other cars .Yeh DOT 4 , 2 L start at the furthest corner and work to the shortest .But what about the ABS pump ?
Do I need the ignition on ( to activate some valve ) or motor running while flushing through??

No symptoms just overdue according to good practice = every 2 years or so irrespective of milage or marque .

 

IETIS defines a very convoluted procedure involving doing front left and rear right simultaneously, and pumping foot pedal whilst doing so, then repeating with front right and rear left.
Subsequently it also calls for VCDS/ODIS to be used to exercise the EPB whilst doing both rears, but not touching brake pedal.
The procedure has no requirement to have the ignition switched on.

 

That sounds like bleeding air out of a newly fitted ABS pump .

Reading and watching u tube around the subject , most using a pressure bleeder ( which I have ) just conventionally follow the std practice of furthest first etc ,but no brake peddle action .
This leaves a tiny insignificant amount in the ABS valves .The reason for a flush is the hygroscopic nature of the fluid means as water absorption occurs the boiling point reduces gradually.There is risk how ever tiny of corrosion internally as well if the water contamination is significant.

Some with Audi / Vw do indeed turn the ignition on and gently pump the peddle a few times for each corner .This allegedly flushed the new fluid through the openi valves in the ABS pump ?

On balance I think I would not bother as 2 % old and 98 % new should be ok boiling point wise .

Interested to hear from anyone who’s done a flush on a BGT .

Cycling the EPB or backing the motors up is just reducing the piston vol and thus fluid vol .Again not really an issue as once a container is opened might as well pressure it through the lines as you can’t really store the stuff not used .

A lot of guys just do not bother with the ABS valves with a flush .
Air bleeding that’s a different story .

 

You asked a question. I took the trouble to read and absorb IETIS, and to post an admittedly précised, answer. A little gratitude would not have gone amiss.

I do understand the difference between bleeding the brakes, and "bleeding air out of a newly fitted ABS pump", hence I started with the IETIS procedure entitled "Brake fluid - to renew" which calls up "Brake fluid - To bleed".

I agree that the procedure as described in IETIS sounds unnecessarily complex, what with stamping on the brake pedal then side stepping it to release, and repeating that five times, with two nipples open simultaneously, but presumably VW have their reasons.

If you don't like it then you are more than welcome to do the other thing...

 

Hi DG Tnx for the efforts thus far much appreciated as always .

I was fishing for previous experiences(s) if any you know hands on .As u tube and other social media platforms although extensive the odd one mentions the ABS thing , ie plugging in a VCDS ( for VW , VAG ) a few touch on the subject like I have telegraphed it’s hardly worth phaffing for the extra 2 % .
Talking pressure flushing here btw .*
Most say “ any car “ most are professionals in the sense they run a shop / garage .
All start at the furthest corner and work back to the shortest line .

Any how I was waiting for a few more responses before sending out accolades in a kinda summary.
You have got yours now if it helps .

One follow up Q if I may ? - * Does the IETIS mention specifically pressure flushing ?

Also the local VW dealership are advertising £69 all in for a flush so further food for thought ……inc a gen brake check they say ?

 

Yes, and I quote from IETIS: "Proprietary pressure brake bleeding equipment must be used at a reservoir pressure of between 2-3 bar."

For £69, if you book it in as a Phaeton...

 

Hello Gentlemen,

This is how I bleed mine. Agreed that the minimal amount in the ABS isn't worth the hassle. Yes there's a procedure for running the ABS pump with vcds. Can always go out and drive the car on loose gravel and activate the ABS. Then back to the shop and bleed again.

Agreed starting at the farthest corner and working towards the front left. Put a hose on the bleeder nipple. The other end of the hose in a bottle with a small amount of brake fluid. Make sure the hose is submerged in the brake fluid in the bottle. Open the bleed nipple pump the brake pedal 1/2 to 2/3 strokes. Keep refreshing the fluid in the reservoir, keep it full. Check the condition of the fluid flowing out until it is perfectly clear. Now, close the nipple, pump the brakes till firm and move on to the next wheel and so on. Have done this frequently on my B no problems works well. Takes about an hour.

 

Thx , Reassuring.It’s what I kinda distilled from previous experience and the volumes of recent social media .
It just with longer winter nights I don’t mind working on it .
Done disks ( rotors ) + pads , and oil + filters etc . As said no symptoms it just occurred to me “ when was the last time “ ?

 

I don't know why Bentley bother to produce IETIS when you guys obviously know better....

 

I have a 16 750ix and needed to change the compressor. ISTA instructions have you removing the rear bumper, exhaust and many other items which was $2500 at the dealer. One of the forums said remove the wheel well, loosen splash panel and remove compressor which was a 30 minute job for me. Go figure.

 

I rather think that it's you who needs to "go figure" out the difference between the fairly benign implications of deviating from the DA-approved dismantling sequence to gain access to a component, and choosing to ignore the DA's procedure for maintaining a complex safety critical electro-mechanical system.

 

I used the Autel HT200 (about $30 or so on eBay) and bought the Bentley software (another $20 in app purchase, or free if you have no other OEMs already loaded in the app) which is capable of cycling the ABS pump for brake bleeding. Easy job.

 

Oh and the HT200 will do nearly everything the $500 units will do. OK maybe not everything but it does a ton for what it costs. I've reset service intervals, changed tire sizes, clear ABS codes that were caused by battery but won't go away without a reset, etc.

 

Just to wrap this up .Used a pressure bleeder / flush “ EZY” bleed .
Very simple I started at the nearest to the master cylinder to basically empty it the shortest route .
Then started the conventional furthest to nearest so 5 openings in all .
Its under pressure from a spare wheel so when say 1/2 L has gone through you just nip up the nipple while it’s still coming out .
Size 11 mm .
Thoughtfully you can deep socket on to crack them open .Some callipers you need a thin rimmed spanner as the nipple is too close to the body .
Not Bentleys .The nipple is big enough to leave a ring spanner on it as well as the clear tube .This makes nipping up a doddle .

Some nipples on other cars callipers are tiny and you have to 1/4 or worse still 1/8 th turn them with the open ended side , it ends up messy as it’s easy to knock the tube off .Not Bentley.

Having done the disks ( rotors ) and pads I find theses VAG Teves brakes very easy to DIY on .
A refreshing change for the GT (c)

 

This thread demonstrates arrogant cognitive dissonance at its finest:

You ask how to do something, you’re told how to do it properly iaw the Design Authority’s instructions, then you simply carry on regardless in your own sweet way.