Hello @xclens ,
A few things, as I am now confused by your comments, you say that you can "see the green board, so it looks legit", yet in your next post you call it a "knockoff" after just saying that it looked legit, so please tell us which fob infact you are referring to, and maybe post pictures of all keys / fobs, with the fobs having their battery covers removed to show the part numbers, and the Siemens VDO on said boards.

As to the single loose key-blade, remember, that the ignition switch has no lock tumblers in it at all, one could stick any VAG key-blade into the cylinder and turn the ignition switch left or right, even a flat head screwdriver will turn the ignition switch, and in turn, give you the message you are receiving, so check that key-blade in your driver's door lock cylinder to verify it matches your vehicle, same goes for checking it to match the glovebox lock, it would be good to have as an emergency locked out key.

As to the valet key you show, that is not a factory Bentley valet key, the factory valet key is just as the main keyfob, yet it only has 2 buttons, therefore having no trunk/boot button to access same, the key-blade is also cut with a slight variation from the main key-blade as to not allow access to the glovebox by way of the valet key-blade after being locked with the main key-blade.

As to your question of the working keyfob being in the vehicle, and the loose key-blade not starting the engine, or even powering up the dash for that matter, as I said earlier, I found not chip in the key-blade, therefore your key-blade will not allow power, or starting, so try this to prove my point, hold your working keyfob right up to the ignition switch, with the key-blade stowed away inside the fob, so it is like the key-blade is in the ignition slot, but not, just to the left or right of the slot, at the same time, insert the loose key-blade and turn it to power up the dash, or start the engine.

Johnny
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Hello ​​​​​​@glh ,
That price, or thereabouts, will get you 2 new main keys and programming, plus any original keys you have, remember to bring all keys with you to the dealership for use during programming, as all working fobs need to be present during any programming, if not present, they will be removed from the KESSY module's memory for use after said programming, BUT, being that they are original paired to the vehicle fobs, they can be added back in by programming at any time, this is so if you lost, or had a key stolen, then at programming, all non present keyfobs would be removed, and made no longer functional to the vehicle.

Also, please do not let the dealership tell you that they must discard your original keys, that is not true, it's just an extra step for them to perform for each original key present, this happened to someone here or on Audiworld where the customer left having just the 2 new keys, instead of a total of 4, as he had 2 original with him...

Just a note, when I did my keys, I ordered a "key service kit" from Bentley of Edison, the cost was $620.00 for the pair, and I did the programming myself with the Ross-Tech VCDS because I had my SKC (secret key code) by way of reading the 93C86 eeprom in the KESSY module during my rebuild, so it was easy access, I later have found that the SKC can be read by reading the 95160 or 95040 eeprom on either of the engine ECU'S, I have posted on this a few times here, but one would need the proper equipment, Ross-Tech- $200 - $300 and up, Carprog - $80, Ponyprog - free.

So depending on the person, and the enjoyment of performing such a task or not, a trip to the dealership may well be worth it.

Johnny

 

My bad! It's coming up on 14 years since I lived in the States, so I'm not used to the daily communication in English these days. But you, good sir, are awesome with your attention to details!!

A couple of guys above my post said that it was probably just an empty case, one that you transfered the original circuit board and metal key to. And I see a lot of those on eBay, AliExpress, etc. But what I meant by 'legit' was that at least my 2nd unprogrammed FOB seems to be a better Chinese replica, with the board already installed inside of it. If it happens to be the 315 Mhz version (US & Japan) that I need, or the European version, remains to be seen.

On the inside of the original FOB, that I use to start the car, is the serial number KR55WK45032. It also states 315 Mhz. The Chinese copy has no serial number on the black plastic at all, so I will have to take both apart a little bit more to see if there are markings on the green circuit boards that can give me some clues. I will provide more pics!

And I will check the other keys more thoroughly!

 

@xclens ,
I wouldn't disassemble the keyfobs any further than just popping off the battery cover, and removing the battery to expose the green board and any writing on it, as shown in the attached picture.

EDIT:
I understand now as to you comment of legit, yes, as others have said, some are just the shells/case, but others are the whole complete keyfob with internals including, as shown in this $80 Amazon listing, 315mhz, 3 button fob, which is most likely what you have.

Keyecu Replacement Remote Key Fob 3 Button 315MHz ID46 for Bentley Continental 2006-2016
Johnny

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$1100 should be for 2 keys. If yours is a Gen1 they will have to get your Gen2 keys. It wont just be an extra key.

 

I bought the replica Bentley key and just ended up stealing the chrome edges and I think the buttons from it. The key was clearly inferior in quality but I was able to swap parts from it to make a perfectly good looking OEM key and fix a lock button that was jammed in. In fact I've done this on nearly all of my cars.

75% of the Chinese replica keys have been garbage or not fitting but they have enough parts on them to make a Frankenstein key so I don't have to live with a key fob with worn out chrome parts or something. And if you complain to them about the key not fitting or working properly from a swap, they refund your money in full and don't ask for the key back. It's weird. With one of my Mercedes I actually just bought a used oem key that was in great condition, but obviously that wouldn't work without an expensive dealer service. But I just swapped the entire housing and now I have a mint oem key for next to no cost.

 

Johnny: what's this: 93C86 eeprom in the KESSY module?

I'd like to get my "secret code" for future use as I understand you need this to program the keys.

 

...sounds easy enough...




Thanks Johnny for all your input... invaluable.