This is the cutter. Any bending I did, I did by hand

 

Thanks !
So I looked under the hood pictures on @Stevieshutts
post , looks like the only line he connected to was #1 on my picture , what about #2 and #3 intake lines , do they remain untouched ?

 

Any advice ?

 

Leave 2 and 3 alone

 

So I removed the passenger side wheel well and it's different from Steve's picture , there is a manifold pressure sensor sitting on the vacuum line that's going from the engine bay to the back of the car.
Should I connect my bypass line before the sensor ?

 

That's the line to the muffler. Include a T there to allow air to go to the controller AND to the firewall

 

Well , it looks different , Steve didn't have that sensor
Here is his picture:

 

OK I did have the sensor. Either bypass it, include it or remove it. Your choice

 

It looks like it's working !
I haven't driven it yet , but rough idling is gone , pump doesn't activate with brake , no leaks , no CEL.
I've done it a shorter way though , instead of using a T and running a new line all the way around the subframe , I ran a new line directly from the pump to where the bulkhead hose connects through the steering rack cavity , connected a new line with a T and continued the new line to a passenger side wheel well through the steering rack cavity, connected a new line before the sensor , I used about 7 feet of the line , one T and two straight fittings.
That's it.

Driver's side connection to the pump




New line going to the engine bay




New line connection on the passenger side




T connection to where the bulkhead hose was

 

Awesome!

 

It was a great experience , appreciate everyone's help !

 

Nice work. I did a version of this mod myself and it's held up for almost 2 years so far. The only issue that I had/have was that with the bypass line fully connected, upon acceleration (and only acceleration, not braking) the vacuum pump would turn on very briefly.

Assuming that this was because my bypass line added more length to the system, I disconnected the part of the line that goes to the exhaust valves and the evap purge valve I believe. This solved my problem, although I do get a CEL every so often (500 miles? Not sure) for the purge value being inoperative. I'm not sure how to fix it yet.

Do you have no more vacuum pump noise, even under acceleration?

 

No more vacuum pump noise , I guess because I did it a different way without adding any extra length , I only used about 7 feet line for my bypass and it's basically the same length as a factory hose.
Thanks for your help !

 

If I'm reading this correctly, you ran a new line behind the steering rack, parallel to the original line? Mine is a bypass route that goes below the engine, then back up to the wheel well. I then capped off both ends of the old leaky line that ran behind the steering rack

 

Correct , beside the steering rack , then installed T , connected to the engine instead of the old hose and continued to a pass. side wheel well beside the steering rack.