EVAP System Purge Control Valve
#1
EVAP System Purge Control Valve
2008 Bentley Continental GTC
I had a small fender bender in December. I took my time finding the parts to fix it. I got it back a few weeks ago. Looks great but.....I have a code that is throwing the check engine light on.
The code is P0444:04/01092:004 It says it's the EVAP System Purge Control Valve 'A' Circuit Open-No signal/communication. Where is this located???And where do I get a Part # for it??
Also I now have a fault in the air ride system. The back is maxed out up the front ride height is normal. I have read that they my have something to do with each other. Seems like that would be odd, but who knows??
I had a small fender bender in December. I took my time finding the parts to fix it. I got it back a few weeks ago. Looks great but.....I have a code that is throwing the check engine light on.
The code is P0444:04/01092:004 It says it's the EVAP System Purge Control Valve 'A' Circuit Open-No signal/communication. Where is this located???And where do I get a Part # for it??
Also I now have a fault in the air ride system. The back is maxed out up the front ride height is normal. I have read that they my have something to do with each other. Seems like that would be odd, but who knows??
#2
Hello @chriswild ,
As far as the purge valve open circuit, first check that it is plugged in electrical wise, if someone was in there working on the front right fender area, they may have unplugged it for some reason, or depending on the severity of the fender bender, was the wiring or the purge valve itself damaged ?
It is located as pictured behind the headlight kind of under the coolant tank, iirc, remove the air filter housing to gain access.
My pictures showing it with the engine on the ground, are just for your clarity of what it actually looks like, it IS mounted to a tab on the body.
As far as the purge valve and the suspension having anything to do with each other, if that is what you meant, no they do not, check both rear suspension level rods at each rear sensor, along with their electrical connections.
Did you have any fault codes when scanning the suspension control module, and which scanner are you using, Ross-Tech VCDS ?
Johnny
.
As far as the purge valve open circuit, first check that it is plugged in electrical wise, if someone was in there working on the front right fender area, they may have unplugged it for some reason, or depending on the severity of the fender bender, was the wiring or the purge valve itself damaged ?
It is located as pictured behind the headlight kind of under the coolant tank, iirc, remove the air filter housing to gain access.
My pictures showing it with the engine on the ground, are just for your clarity of what it actually looks like, it IS mounted to a tab on the body.
As far as the purge valve and the suspension having anything to do with each other, if that is what you meant, no they do not, check both rear suspension level rods at each rear sensor, along with their electrical connections.
Did you have any fault codes when scanning the suspension control module, and which scanner are you using, Ross-Tech VCDS ?
Johnny
.
#3
Hello @chriswild ,
As far as the purge valve open circuit, first check that it is plugged in electrical wise, if someone was in there working on the front right fender area, they may have unplugged it for some reason, or depending on the severity of the fender bender, was the wiring or the purge valve itself damaged ?
It is located as pictured behind the headlight kind of under the coolant tank, iirc, remove the air filter housing to gain access.
My pictures showing it with the engine on the ground, are just for your clarity of what it actually looks like, it IS mounted to a tab on the body.
As far as the purge valve and the suspension having anything to do with each other, if that is what you meant, no they do not, check both rear suspension level rods at each rear sensor, along with their electrical connections.
Did you have any fault codes when scanning the suspension control module, and which scanner are you using, Ross-Tech VCDS ?
Johnny
.
As far as the purge valve open circuit, first check that it is plugged in electrical wise, if someone was in there working on the front right fender area, they may have unplugged it for some reason, or depending on the severity of the fender bender, was the wiring or the purge valve itself damaged ?
It is located as pictured behind the headlight kind of under the coolant tank, iirc, remove the air filter housing to gain access.
My pictures showing it with the engine on the ground, are just for your clarity of what it actually looks like, it IS mounted to a tab on the body.
As far as the purge valve and the suspension having anything to do with each other, if that is what you meant, no they do not, check both rear suspension level rods at each rear sensor, along with their electrical connections.
Did you have any fault codes when scanning the suspension control module, and which scanner are you using, Ross-Tech VCDS ?
Johnny
.
The only code for the Level Control System was 01400:001 Ride Control System-Upper Limit exceeded.
#4
#5
#6
Was it a good shop? Sounds like they jacked it up for some reason and didn’t put it in jack mode.
#7
@chriswild ,
Glad you found the broken wire !
As to the suspension, what TJ said, and or, I am not so sure as to your replacing the whole complete compressor assembly was the answer, as you previously stated that the front was at "normal height", and that the back was "maxed out up", so too high, as shown by the fault code, that to me means that the compressor itself was in working order and strong enough to produce the required pressure (16 bar/233 psi or there abouts) to raise the vehicle, which makes me think that you either had a connection issue at either of the rear sensors, or at the valve block itself, or a faulty valve block/ pressure valve, which is mounted on the compressor assembly, and is available separately.
A proper scan of the compressor would have shown operating pressure, which brings me back to the scanning tool being used, as the format in which the codes are given, leads me to believe that a generic scanner is being used, not a Ross-Tech, or VAS 5052/5054 ODIS, or another VAG specific scanner, I would encourage you to purchase a Ross-Tech VCDS, as it will save you time and money when diagnosing any faults, and you won't have to rely on others to tell what they think is the issue, you will have it first hand.
It would be interesting if you would hook up some power (12 volts) to your old compressor like I did here in my video, to see what kind of pressure it is making.
Johnny
.
Glad you found the broken wire !
As to the suspension, what TJ said, and or, I am not so sure as to your replacing the whole complete compressor assembly was the answer, as you previously stated that the front was at "normal height", and that the back was "maxed out up", so too high, as shown by the fault code, that to me means that the compressor itself was in working order and strong enough to produce the required pressure (16 bar/233 psi or there abouts) to raise the vehicle, which makes me think that you either had a connection issue at either of the rear sensors, or at the valve block itself, or a faulty valve block/ pressure valve, which is mounted on the compressor assembly, and is available separately.
A proper scan of the compressor would have shown operating pressure, which brings me back to the scanning tool being used, as the format in which the codes are given, leads me to believe that a generic scanner is being used, not a Ross-Tech, or VAS 5052/5054 ODIS, or another VAG specific scanner, I would encourage you to purchase a Ross-Tech VCDS, as it will save you time and money when diagnosing any faults, and you won't have to rely on others to tell what they think is the issue, you will have it first hand.
It would be interesting if you would hook up some power (12 volts) to your old compressor like I did here in my video, to see what kind of pressure it is making.
Johnny
.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 09-14-2022 at 09:03 AM. Reason: Add info
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#8
The compressor it self works. Like you said, it lifts the car. I replaced the Valve Block first and that didn't fix the problem. But it wouldn't throw the fault automatically it would take a little to come on, maybe like 3-4 mins. So I would be able to select high and low level before it would throw the fault. Then it just started to come on right away. Then it maxed out ride in both rear and driver front. So when I went to replace the unit It look like to me that the old pump might have been coming apart and the debris was fouling the new Valve Block. I found a used compete unit on Ebay a for Cheep price,($130) So I figured I'll throw that in and see if there is a change. After I blow all the lines back from each strut to make sure there was no debris left over in them, I plug it in and after a min or two the car came right up and has been driving great for the last few days!
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