Hi all.
I am new to this forum having traded a Maserati Spyder for a 2007 Continental GT. So far I think it is a way more technical community than other sites.

I have looked but cannot find an answer to this perennial question(s)
Scenario: C E L light and check fuel cap warning
Vacuum pump cycling often
Rough idle at start up
P0455 gross evap leak code


The lights are intermittent and can be cleared

I took it to a local shop that has done some work for me in the past and they did a smoke test showing a vacuum line issue. I was prepared for that eventuality but the reason I bought the 2007 over prior models was my understanding that the lines were relocated on these models and no longer required a full engine out.

My shop is telling me that is not true and the engine has to come out to the tune of 40 hours of labor (seems that's a lot of time to drop and replace a sub assembly) and $2400 in parts: vacuum lines and a 'drop kit.'

Total will be in the neighborhood of $10K and a week plus of down time.

I have heard repeatedly that you can reach all the lines with a steering rack drop, but they claim the lines cannot be 'fished' about without breaking them with just the rack down.

Can y'all comment on this please as the preponderance of YouTube info relates to 2006 and earlier. What I have seen is that the major problem(s) are at the 'T' and other connectors where the plastic is expanded by the barb and splits not along the plastic hose itself. Seems to me if that is reachable a trim and clamp of the split is in order not a full replace. Again, nothing definitive on 2007 and later.

I really need a sanity check on this - which is true - is this really a full engine out job or can it be done without a full drop. In my mind lots of things can happen when you pull an engine out, MOST of them are NOT good.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

Jim

 

Hello @dangme55 Jim,
As far as the 2004-06 vs. the 2007 routing of the vacuum lines, your 2007 has the same routing as the late 2006 GT's, as shown in @Adrenalinejunky 's thread linked below, he did all repairs without dropping the engine transmission package, he did the steering rack procedure, if you read the complete thread, you will see that @Stevieshutts did a rerouting of his own that required no removal of the rack or engine transmission package.

As to the quote of $2400 for parts, that's absurd, you do NOT want the same factory style plastic lines from Bentley, you want to make your own out of metal tubing, otherwise you will be in the same situation down the road, the engine and gear lowering bolt kit ranges from $250 - $500 depending on way you source it from.

As a comparison of cost, Jason Giannetti now in North Carolina does the job in the $5000 range, and that's with him dropping the engine transmission package and making all of the metal lines, some people like to drop the package, others goes the rack route, the rack route is possible as shown, maybe show the thread to your shop guy.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...any-input.html

Johnny

 

Johnny,

Thanks for the sanity check. Not sure I can convince the shop I am using to not drop the engine. Right now realistically my road is probably a lot shorter than the life expectancy of the vacuum lines. Not being morose, just at 76, shall we say realistic. This is as I mentioned my YOLO car. I will look at the thread you mentioned. Right now I am kind of stuck with the shop I have. But I might be able to shop the job as the parts are really slow coming from Bentley.

Still not sure why it takes 5 days to drop an engine and replace it (40 hours labor) but I stopped doing my own wrench bending years ago.

Thanks again.

 

See if they can show you exactly where you have a leak.

The most common leaks on 07+ seem to be at the T connectors of a very thin plastic line that runs behind the steering rack.

With a bit of work, maybe half a day and about $30 in parts, you can make your own tubing to completely bypass that horrible line, keep your system 100% intact, and free of leaks.

I have had this setup for 1.5 years and I have had no issues.

The only downside is it is highly doubtful that you can find any shop that would be willing to do this. You'll have to have someone DIY

Here's a thread that further details this
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...gh-idling.html

 

Thanks to all -

I will check under the hood to see if the solenoids are there. From what y'all have said that is the determinant on whether most of the lines are accessible from steering rack??

As I mentioned this was on my radar from the beginning of the search. The car I found is very clean with 40K miles. I purchased it from a nationwide dealer which does a 100 gazillion point inspection. They noted a bunch of misfires and changed the plugs which I thought was a good deal. They also did a number of other reconditioning. In retrospect the misfires were probably from the vacuum although this did not show up for over 600 miles of driving. So I presume they, not being a Bentley dealer, were not aware.

So bottom line - this is a cost benefit issue. Pulling the engine does have the benefit of inspecting/refreshing everything that is hard to install - alternator, etc. the car is a keeper at present.

I do have the Bentley Service Manual but it is very hard to navigate to say the least. Does anyone have a BIN reference for the engine out or vacuum line replace? I sure can't find it.

Also does anyone have realistic numbers on the labor hours required to do steering rack vs engine out? What are reasonable numbers for those jobs? Everyone has to make a living and I don't mind paying someone fairly for their time and expertise. I just need to know what is reasonable.

Doing this myself is something I would have tackled 20 years ago but not now. I do have a friend with an open pit but not a lift. He is a gear head too so he would help but not sure you could do the rack from a pit with jack stands?

Again thanks to all you have been incredibly helpful.

Edit: the last 5 of my vin: 49289 - where do the new vac lines start??
I am finding that there are a lot of anomalies in Bentley builds, Almost like Lear Jets which I am familiar with no two are the same . My car for example has CD Nav, not DVD, a button for the Passenger Air Bag instead of key, and no release for the driver knee roll to get to the fuses. Would be nice if there was a reference as to when certain 'service/build' changes start and end by vin. Anyone know of such? It seems that it is Bentley policy to make everything as arcane as possible.

 

Just had my 06 done (finally). No engine drop was done. Had the coil packs done and air filters and it was nowhere near 10k. Wasn’t even 5k and I got my lines from Jason G.

 

Thanks!
So you had the steering rack dropped? The problem I am having and the struggle is with the engine drop. The quote is for 40 hours of labor which seems like a lot of hours to unbolt a subframe and drive shaft and cooling lines etc. Not saying it is not possible but seems as if you could do what I have seen on YT in 20-30 hours.

Of course that is not the way the industry works with the profit coming from beating the flat rate time. I live near Atlanta so shop rates are upwards of $150 / hr. The two shops I have talked to are $170 and $180. So 30-40 hours is a chunk of change.

 

Hello @dangme55 ,
My responses in red.

I took your last digits and added the standard beginning of our vin's along with picking 0 through 9 for the safety restraint system and the one check digit, and I came up with this, is this your GT ?



My GT rebuild thread.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html


Johnny

 

Yes, that is my car. And THANKS AGAIN for all the info. Everyone, especially you, have been very helpful. I am now in a quandary as to moving forward with the shop I have been working with. Every review they have is sterling and I really like the service writer and the mechanic who is working on my car BUT they are apparently at the top end of the $$$ scale.

I cannot find a number for Gianetti everything points to New York - too far for me to go but I could limp a few hours up to Moore NC.

I know of two shops other than Bentley dealer in the Atlanta area - EuroFed and Rocco's. Both are well rated but charge $170-180 shop rate.

Anyone know of any other shops in my area? I live in Monroe about 30 miles east of Atlanta and 20 miles south of Athens { home of the #1 rated Dawgs ;} }

Wow, I looked at your project. Just amazing. You must know more about the Bentley than any B mechanic having taken the whole car apart. I am super impressed. One last nagging question how many vacuum sensors does the car have? Since I am getting evap system warnings is that a clue to the leak being in that 'sub assembly' of the lines are there sensors in each leg of the hose or just one sensor for the whole system?

 

@dangme55
Jason Giannetti
516-853-5210
Charlotte NC

You are about 230 miles / 3 hours 40 minutes from him.
I just spoke with Jason minutes ago.

Johnny

 

Great - thanks much! You get down my way - I big time owe you.

 

I would say find another shop your comfortable with. I was going to ship my car to Jason but he was starting his move a few yrs ago and looked for another shop. That’s one option for you if within your budget. But I would most definitely get the lines from him. I told him yesterday you might be reaching out to him.

 

Thanks, I spoke to Jason today. I was very impressed. Checked with another shop and they are even more expensive. I am withing driving distance to Jason but he is booked six weeks out. The current shop still does not have all the parts so I am still between a rock and a hard place. So a couple of more options to explore then I might just minimize the driving of the Bentley and wait for Jason. Have a lot to think about right now. Thanks for all the good info.

 

Hi Everyone,

So the saga continues. Well not really. I am posting this up for info for others who may follow. After a very heated argument with the shop I was going to use I got wise. The shop I have been talking to wanted to do an engine out on the car and charge 40 hours of labor. They kept telling my that there were lines on my transmission even though it is a 2007. I did check the threads here and my car does have the engine mounted solenoids.

I called Bentley Atlanta this morning to see what they would charge. WOW! The service manager said they do this no engine out by removing the steering rack. 12 hours of labor AND parts $3,800 out the door. Almost seems to good to be true but it more in line with the experiences of others who have done it on the forum.

I have a service appointment for next Wednesday so I will have some news the following week.

As an aside I have spoken to Jason Gianetti on several occasions and the car would go there if he was not slammed until December. Very impressed with everything he said and his knowledge is very ideep.

So now I guess I will have $2,400 in surplus parts to get whatever I can out of. Hopefully will not have to fight the shop over this or resort to credit card dispute. They way over charged for the parts. Same parts from Scuderia $1,300. Color me PO'ed.

 

I've posted this before, but it will help here.

Here was my engine out. Didn't need the lines replaced but did it anyway since the engine was out. Didn't use the stainless steel ones like I should have; I thought I was buying them but I just ended up replacing factory junk with factory junk.

The following repair bill was for getting the wing and the turbo fixed. Ends up that I lent the car to some students and a dime ended up in the cigarette lighter. They brought it back with several items blown, the infotainment and the wing were both inop. I really like the shop technician, he found the stupid dime which cost me a bunch of money.

One turbo didn't work right (the right one) and the module was showing faults. That was an engine-out job, since the engine was out I changed the O2 sensors (another engine-out) and both solenoids as well as the vacuum lines (which had been done by a previous owner) and a couple other parts I think Johnny recommended.

Insider hint: pay very, very close attention to Johnny. He is a world expert on these cars and has a personality that drives him to help others, we are very, very lucky he is here.

You'lll note the "engine out aluminum bolt kit' has a price of $0.00. That is because they need new bolts if they need new bolts but don't if they don't.

In this case the bolts could be reused, but they warned me that it might not be the case. I really like my independent, they don't seem to default to the expensive answer, they just like fixing things.

Lesson learned: you want to screw up your electrics, one really good way is to have some schmuck drop a dime in your cigarette lighter. I still have no idea how that happened.