Hi,
I had to play a little bit with my house battery - so connected and disconnected few times.

After connecting Ive always had the side glass calibration stuff to do - but that was normal and all worked fine.

But at one time, I had the rear driver side glass half open and disconnected the battery, then connected it again and... the car "started to think" the half open position is "fully closed" - I tried different tricks with calibration (all done via switches) but I was unsuccessful. All the time I could move the window fully down, but when i pressed switch (or used the button on RC) to move it up - it always stopped half way.

decided to do kind of "hard reset" - i was hoping it will help:

- Ive opened all the glasses - moved all to full low position by holding the "open" on my RC.

- all went down as expected

- disconnected the house battery

- wait 15mins

- connected again

- retried the calibration

effect:

- all doors are working ok, except the rear driver side glass, but now I have it even worse because it is fully open, and there is absolutely no reaction to switch, or button on RC to move the glass up

can anyone help me?

a) of course how to fix it, how to diagnose, any vcds tricks maybe? can i trigger callibration / reset via vcds?

b) how can I - as emergency procedure - move the window up to close it fully (any wires to short, any relay to short, or best - any vcds adaptation channel maybe to use? or any way to close the window mechanically?

what i noticed is that having the glass fully open, when I press the switch down, I hear relay clicks but when i press the switch up, i got totally nothing.

@Johnny Hotspur GT - have you had similar issues? do you have any idea for a or b? As always thanks in advance for any support!!!

 

Hello @sazam ,
Yes, I have had the same issue in the past when I first powered up the vehicle electronics after installing all the replacement wiring harness and modules, I had the drivers rear 1/4 glass halfway down, then all the way down, repeated disconnections of both batteries for a period of time got the glass to come back up, I was like WTH, every time I disconnected the batteries for safety reasons overnight the driver side rear glass would drop an inch or so when I reconnected the batteries, this only happened a few times, iirc I would there after close all the windows either from inside by the switches, or by putting the key-blade in the door lock cylinder and turning it to the right to lock, arm, and put all the windows up, all this time the boot lid was open, then I would disconnect both batteries, I have never had this issue since, and I have disconnected both batteries multiple times since, I suggest trying the key-blade in the door lock cylinder to get the window back up, turn and hold the key-blade for every bit of 6-7 seconds, or more to try.

As to A), none that I know of, my VCDS does not communicate with my door modules on the GT, maybe I will check out my ODIS VAS 5054 for communication.

As to B), the only emergency way the roll the glass up would be to remove the inner trim panel to gain access to the widow motor/module, then remove said window motor / module (3 screws) to gain access to the gear drive socket, you can turn by hand with a tool of choice to fit into the spline socket to turn.

Johnny

 

hi Johnny! TY for response.

tried again with callibration and it finally went up and windows are callibrated all now.

thanks a lot for the emergency hint - good to know it is just the gear to move - thought it will be more locks to fight with

 

Good to hear @sazam !

Johnny