2006 Bentley Flying Spur won't start
#1
2006 Bentley Flying Spur won't start
I have an 2006 Bentley Flying Spur the motor turns over but it will not start there aren't any lights on the dash all the fuses are good. This car has been sitting for several years I got it from an estate sale the remote works the doors, trunk and turns switch. can someone please help.
#2
several years? drain the old fuel, tank fresh
change oil, filters, coolant fluid etc
check spark plugs and potentially change them with coils too
make sure the fuel pumps really run
then try to start
and run vcds scan - it is a must
change oil, filters, coolant fluid etc
check spark plugs and potentially change them with coils too
make sure the fuel pumps really run
then try to start
and run vcds scan - it is a must
#3
Hello @crazydavesr ,
Welcome to 6speedonline !
As to your 2006 FS, as Sazam stated, a scan is a must, as to the "several years", how many years are we talking, any other known issues, or the last time it ran ?
I recommend the Ross-Tech VCDS, they start at $199, you will need a laptop.
https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS/
As to the fuel in the tank, my GT sat for 8 years and almost 2 months with the same fuel in the tank, my cap was cap was in place the entire time, and the fuel was clean, clear, and had a great strong smell 8 + years later, I was shocked myself, I even went through pulling the pumps mounting rings off to inspect the inside of the tank as I also had a not start issue, but mine was 2 fold, first, I had no fuel to the engine, yet all fuses and relays were good, and power right to each pump connection plate on the top of the tank inside the boot, I even placed the spare pumps and connection plates in the boot and hooked them up, they worked, but, although my GT was a hurricane Sandy victim, the connections at these original plates had no corrosion, as they have water tight/resistant plug connectors, the issue for reasons unknown was that the power was not making it to the other side of each plate, yet they showed no signs of damage, I almost pulled both pumps out to swap, but a light bulb went on in my head to check for power on the other side of the connection plate, there was no power on the other side, so, I had spares from the parts vehicle so I swapped them over, now I had fuel, and each time I grabbed the drivers door handle to open, I could hear the fuel pump/pumps prime the fuel system, but my no start issue wasn't over...
My issue of the engine still not firing over after now having fuel, turned out to be the crank position sensor, located at the bottom of the transmission, this can be seen in my rebuild thread at post number 200, I had put a new one in, but it was a defect, once I swapped out the CPS and put the old broken connector CPS back in, she fired right up, although I then had my next issue of the engine dying after 2 seconds due to the immobilizer challenge kicking in, I fixed the IMMO next for full time running, then got another new CPS and all ran fine !
I would also check to be sure that both fuel pump relays are in place and working, do you hear the fuel pumps prime at all ?
Johnny
.
FUEL PUMP RELAYS
FUEL PUMPS AND CONNECTION PLATES, PLUS 8 + YEAR OLD FUEL IN THE JAR.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR, AND LOCATION
ROSS-TECH VCDS / LAPTOP SHOWING FAULTY G28 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR.
Welcome to 6speedonline !
As to your 2006 FS, as Sazam stated, a scan is a must, as to the "several years", how many years are we talking, any other known issues, or the last time it ran ?
I recommend the Ross-Tech VCDS, they start at $199, you will need a laptop.
https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS/
As to the fuel in the tank, my GT sat for 8 years and almost 2 months with the same fuel in the tank, my cap was cap was in place the entire time, and the fuel was clean, clear, and had a great strong smell 8 + years later, I was shocked myself, I even went through pulling the pumps mounting rings off to inspect the inside of the tank as I also had a not start issue, but mine was 2 fold, first, I had no fuel to the engine, yet all fuses and relays were good, and power right to each pump connection plate on the top of the tank inside the boot, I even placed the spare pumps and connection plates in the boot and hooked them up, they worked, but, although my GT was a hurricane Sandy victim, the connections at these original plates had no corrosion, as they have water tight/resistant plug connectors, the issue for reasons unknown was that the power was not making it to the other side of each plate, yet they showed no signs of damage, I almost pulled both pumps out to swap, but a light bulb went on in my head to check for power on the other side of the connection plate, there was no power on the other side, so, I had spares from the parts vehicle so I swapped them over, now I had fuel, and each time I grabbed the drivers door handle to open, I could hear the fuel pump/pumps prime the fuel system, but my no start issue wasn't over...
My issue of the engine still not firing over after now having fuel, turned out to be the crank position sensor, located at the bottom of the transmission, this can be seen in my rebuild thread at post number 200, I had put a new one in, but it was a defect, once I swapped out the CPS and put the old broken connector CPS back in, she fired right up, although I then had my next issue of the engine dying after 2 seconds due to the immobilizer challenge kicking in, I fixed the IMMO next for full time running, then got another new CPS and all ran fine !
I would also check to be sure that both fuel pump relays are in place and working, do you hear the fuel pumps prime at all ?
Johnny
.
FUEL PUMP RELAYS
FUEL PUMPS AND CONNECTION PLATES, PLUS 8 + YEAR OLD FUEL IN THE JAR.
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR, AND LOCATION
ROSS-TECH VCDS / LAPTOP SHOWING FAULTY G28 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 06-09-2023 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Add information and pictures
#5
Please see my edited comment.
I added information, and I am not so sure on the Autel, many here use RT VCDS, or ODIS VAS 5054, I have both, RT is a very easy learning curve, and very in-depth diagnostic that is easy to follow, plus gives much more details and communication with the Bentley modules then other scanners, the ODIS VAS is dealer level and harder to get the hang of...
Johnny
I added information, and I am not so sure on the Autel, many here use RT VCDS, or ODIS VAS 5054, I have both, RT is a very easy learning curve, and very in-depth diagnostic that is easy to follow, plus gives much more details and communication with the Bentley modules then other scanners, the ODIS VAS is dealer level and harder to get the hang of...
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 06-09-2023 at 09:28 AM. Reason: Spelling
#6
@crazydavesr ,
Please clarify your comment of "there aren't any lights on dash", if the engine is not running, and the key-blade is in the ignition switch and turned to the right to start, or just the on position, you should have many lights illuminated without the engine running, are you saying that the Instrument cluster is dead ?
Are you using the key-blade in the ignition switch, or the push button start, how is the house battery, I would assume after several years of sitting, that you installed 2 new batteries, please confirm.
Johnny
Please clarify your comment of "there aren't any lights on dash", if the engine is not running, and the key-blade is in the ignition switch and turned to the right to start, or just the on position, you should have many lights illuminated without the engine running, are you saying that the Instrument cluster is dead ?
Are you using the key-blade in the ignition switch, or the push button start, how is the house battery, I would assume after several years of sitting, that you installed 2 new batteries, please confirm.
Johnny
#7
Please clarify your comment of "there aren't any lights on dash", if the engine is not running, and the key-blade is in the ignition switch and turned to the right to start, or just the on position, you should have many lights illuminated without the engine running, are you saying that the Instrument cluster is dead ?
Are you using the key-blade in the ignition switch, or the push button start, how is the house battery, I would assume after several years of sitting, that you installed 2 new batteries, please confirm.
Are you using the key-blade in the ignition switch, or the push button start, how is the house battery, I would assume after several years of sitting, that you installed 2 new batteries, please confirm.
When I turn the key nothing on the dash comes on the only thing that comes on is the radio no gear ID ABS light or anything.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 06-09-2023 at 10:53 AM. Reason: Fix QUOTE
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#8
How are the batteries, and the mega fuses in the boot on the house battery, and the fuses and flat blade fuses on the starter battery ?
Johnny
#10
as always johnny has the detective sense...
johnny asked right question and your answer is that you dont get any control lights after turning the key to ignition on - this is smth wrong
johnny asked right question and your answer is that you dont get any control lights after turning the key to ignition on - this is smth wrong
#11
@crazydavesr ,
Just for full disclosure, there are 4 locations for the fuses, dash, cowl under bonnet, both sides of the boot, have you checked all fuses in all four locations.
Do you have the fuse layout for each location ?
Edit, add attached fuse file.
Johnny
Just for full disclosure, there are 4 locations for the fuses, dash, cowl under bonnet, both sides of the boot, have you checked all fuses in all four locations.
Do you have the fuse layout for each location ?
Edit, add attached fuse file.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 06-09-2023 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Add attached file
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