Hello Everyone!

Thanks a million to the awesome guys who contributed to the vacuum leak threads for Bentleys...amazingly helpful stuff with pics and arrows and new fittings. The whole procedure. Somehow I suspect my mechanic F'd it up tho. My 2005 has the grey vacuum solenoid behind the top of the engine so my understanding is it's the updated vacuum lines routing...no spider web vacuum lines on top of the transmission. I didn't think they made 2005's with that update but who am I to know. My mechanic pulled the steering rack out and accessed a bunch of broken vacuum T fittings. A previous mechanic had simply run a new line to the top of the engine from the reservoir so the situation was a bit of a mess. My 2005 GTC FS has 59,000 k so almost every vacuum line was cracked of course.

Mechanic comes for a test ride with me after all is said and done. We bury the pedal and before the transmission would shortly kick into neutral under heavy acceleration...going into limp mode until restart. That's fixed and the car accelerates real fast! Good News! However on every upshift the turbos kick off and a split second later come back on again. I'm suspecting the mechanic missed a few vacuum connections as there are no idiot lights coming on. He'll run a diagnostics to see if there is anything tripping the computer and turning them off. I also wonder if the shifts are a bit slower than I'd expect. Seems like it to me...but the car is new to me so I don't know what's its normal shift speed when operating properly.

If anyone has any tips it would be much appreciated. I'm in a far away place to any specialist and my mechanic is a VAG specialist but it's his first Bentley. Gotta be baptised sometime right!
Thanks!

 

Hello @CanadianJames ,
I believe that you are talking about the same vehicle that you posted on back on 10-21-2022, so, you may want to make corrections in both of your threads, as in this thread, you say it is a "2005", in the other "2006", also, there is no such thing as a "2005 GTC FS", nor a "2006 Flying Spur GT",
the GT is the 2 door hardtop coupe, the GTC is the 2 door convertible, and the Flying Spur is the 4 door you have pictured in your other thread, I state all this because of your confusion of the grey solenoids at the rear top of the engine, that is because only the early GT's had the vacuum lines and solenoids over the top of the transmission, the Flying Spur never did, as the Flying Spur first model year is 2006 (for NA), and therefore automatically came with the newly redesigned location of the vacuum lines and solenoids that the 2006 GT and future GTC would get.

As to the turbos and the shifting of the transmission, are you sure that you are not feeling the ignition spark cutoff during shifting, I ask @BWings to confirm my thoughts on this, I know that I read that my GT Supersports engine and transmission do this between shifts, also the FS like the base GT'S has the ZF 6HP-26 transmission, not the ZF 6HP-28 "Quick Shift" that the 2010 Supersports and later models came with, my 2005 Audi A8L W12 has the ZF 6HP-26, although no turbos, I always felt that shifting while using the paddles or the stick was a bit too delayed for spirited driving, and in automatic D mode and on the pedal a bit, it has that calming felling for a split second between shifts, whereas with my Supersports engine and transmission package, the shifts are fast, non delayed, and what a beautiful sound of the exhaust.

A scan would definitely help us help you, if you plan on keeping the FS for yourself, I suggest that you purchase the Ross-Tech VCDS, so you can scan, and code anytime for yourself, and not relying on, or driving to the indy for every issue that might arise.

Johnny

 

Thanks!
Yes it's the Flying Spur 4 door but it's from Japan. I think it is a 2006 but the local customs guys made the local paperwork in 2005 thus my change in years. It's the Mansory edition as well.
Great to hear the vacuum lines were never over the transmission for the Flying Spur! You're an awesome fountain of information!
You are likely right and it's simply the normal shift style as everything was apparently fixed up. It's just very noticeable with that much power getting cut off for the shift and then the turbos kicking back on afterwards. There is definitely a shift, power comes back online and then a second power jump with the turbos kicking back on. I might not notice the pattern in other cars I've driven.

If you've got any thoughts on the sound system....

I've just replaced the center console with the Chinese Tesla style tablet. It's ok but the UI looks cheap. Anyway it works, I swapped all the speakers, 3 per door area, but the Amp seems really underpowered. I guess I have to change that as well. Sad because it's a really clean Amp but modern systems have much more power so people expect a much louder top end. If you've heard of a solution that works great let me know.

Thanks again for everything! These cars are beyond amazing but your collection of how to information here is such a huge help owning one.

 

Hello @CanadianJames ,
As to your sound system, how did the original infotainment head unit sound volume wise before the change out ?

Did you use the RCA converter as others here have talked about, did you adjust the source inputs individually, as I assume that is what is meant by the posts screenshoted below.
Other have complained about the low volume, so I am curious how your original system sounded prior to install.

Johnny

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Thanks again! As usual more info that I've never heard!

My OEM screen was dead and wouldn't 'reboot' using the procedure I found here somewhere (fuses pulled and reset in a specific order). I did hear the radio but never got any CD working. It sounded clean but wasn't very loud. It had a bunch of antennae that really picked up radio signals great tho.

I haven't had the car since the Tesla tablet style radio was installed. Just that test drive to see if the vacuum problem was gone. The few minutes I was in it I did test the new radio it sounded fine but wasn't loud again. Seemed about the same max volume as before. I was thinking to replace the Amp or to add on a second Amp and run them front and back. I've upgraded the speakers to handle a bit more power. The front speakers are changed and the rears are still OEM. I didn't hear any real change in sound listening to the front or back speakers with the new radio/console. Both OEM and new speakers sound similar but I can't push them hard enough to really see the difference I'm expecting. I didn't adjust the source inputs inside the console at all...and didn't know you could even do that! More Gold!

Boosting the RCA signal seems odd to me. I'd expect them to output a standard signal. I don't know if there was a 'green converter' involved in the install. I'll have to ask now. The installer did mention a problem connecting the speaker level outputs to the Amp which had 'optical' inputs only he called it but he's Russian and said he'd fix it. I don't know what that fix was. Now I wonder if it limited the overall sound. My mechanic had to pull out a ton of electronics just like that other person who bought their car in Japan! Funny to read that as my mechanic was amazed at all the stuff in there he pulled out. HDD player and such.

Thanks for the info yet again! You carry a heavy load here and do it well...

 

Just an update for those that find this! I installed a cheap RCA signal amplifier and it solved the low volume problem perfectly! Even higher volume than with the old stock radio system now. The tesla tablet style solution is...well...ok. It's look isn't great but can be mod'ed to be a bit better. I find it more modern than the other solution tho and like that.

So much great info here for owners...thanks a ton to everyone for helping out!