Vacuum Leak / New by pass pipe / Ver. 2.0 / pics
#17
@ Johnny
Yes, noise can be attributed to age, wear, condition, vac leaks, etc.
Most people have reported excessive run times or pumps running non-stop attributed to vac leaks. When they run for 15-30 seconds, occasionally, people have run them like that for years sometimes.
I try not to focus on the pump in driveway conditions, but rather in real-world conditions such as driving, as that is where 99% of the cars run-time will be done and where the pump run-time matters to me the most.
I saw the full borescope vid, it was like a month ago, don't have it any more. Saw the T-junction and the shiny trans under it. Could be that he's showing a vid from a GT and lying. I will run the camera myself.
If it's rack, I will probably have it done within 500 miles of LA and drive there myself.
If it's engine out, I'm sure I can find somewhere cheaper than $9k but closer than NC, thanks though.
Can't do it myself due to some incompetence, 1-year-old at home requiring my time, tools required, and apartment building wouldn't allow a project that huge.
I'll get with prior mechanic, new mechanic for 2nd opinion, do my own borescope, figure out what, where, how, prices, etc.
Will be in touch.
Thanks all.
Yes, noise can be attributed to age, wear, condition, vac leaks, etc.
Most people have reported excessive run times or pumps running non-stop attributed to vac leaks. When they run for 15-30 seconds, occasionally, people have run them like that for years sometimes.
I try not to focus on the pump in driveway conditions, but rather in real-world conditions such as driving, as that is where 99% of the cars run-time will be done and where the pump run-time matters to me the most.
I saw the full borescope vid, it was like a month ago, don't have it any more. Saw the T-junction and the shiny trans under it. Could be that he's showing a vid from a GT and lying. I will run the camera myself.
If it's rack, I will probably have it done within 500 miles of LA and drive there myself.
If it's engine out, I'm sure I can find somewhere cheaper than $9k but closer than NC, thanks though.
Can't do it myself due to some incompetence, 1-year-old at home requiring my time, tools required, and apartment building wouldn't allow a project that huge.
I'll get with prior mechanic, new mechanic for 2nd opinion, do my own borescope, figure out what, where, how, prices, etc.
Will be in touch.
Thanks all.
#18
@rsebastien1993 ,
What ever happened here, what was the outcome of the supposed solenoids and tee on the top of the transmission of your Flying Spur ?
Johnny
What ever happened here, what was the outcome of the supposed solenoids and tee on the top of the transmission of your Flying Spur ?
Johnny
#19
I am still driving with the vacuum leak / check engine with booster and misfire codes. I try to not drive much until I can fix it. I was not able to slide the borescope myself to verify. Every time I turn the car on, something new is broken (purge, spark plugs fouled, intercooler leak, valve covers leak, upper&lower oil pan seal leak, MAF plug fell apart, MAF fuse blown, headliner sag, battery dead, trunk water leak, etc), so I haven't had time or money to fix the vacuum yet. Especially given that I want to do a full service when I drop engine such as timing chains, oil pump chain, starter, o2, turbo sensors, gas temp sensors, PCVs, booster pump, engine mounts, etc etc.
I will let you guys know once engine is dropped and I will be there to witness/record. I've seen this guy drop at least 6 w12 engines, all with same problem, varying years. I've used him for 15k in labor thus far at least, without a single issue or untrustworthy moment. I believe my 06 spur does indeed have the T lines over the transmission like he says, despite the gray solenoids at the top of the engine. Probably an isolated incident, maybe Frankenstein car that someone messed with before, maybe an engine swap where they swapped solenoids to top and left lines at bottom, idk.
Sorry for the wait, I bought some other cars at the same time as Bentley (2012 XJL, 2013 LR4, 2015 Mini, 2023 Bmw 330e, etc) so lots of projects.
I will let you guys know once engine is dropped and I will be there to witness/record. I've seen this guy drop at least 6 w12 engines, all with same problem, varying years. I've used him for 15k in labor thus far at least, without a single issue or untrustworthy moment. I believe my 06 spur does indeed have the T lines over the transmission like he says, despite the gray solenoids at the top of the engine. Probably an isolated incident, maybe Frankenstein car that someone messed with before, maybe an engine swap where they swapped solenoids to top and left lines at bottom, idk.
Sorry for the wait, I bought some other cars at the same time as Bentley (2012 XJL, 2013 LR4, 2015 Mini, 2023 Bmw 330e, etc) so lots of projects.
#20
Applies to a 2014 GTC Speed as well?
I am extremely impressed with the collaboration on this forum.I recently purchased a 2006 Flying Spur. Prior to the purchase, I was very concerned about the common vacuum cracked pipe issue. It was @Stevieshutts earlier post showing his brilliant idea on the copper pipe by pass to abandon all of the plastic vacuum lines behind the fire wall that was my tipping point.
So I bought the car. This was largely based on my new confidence that I wouldn't have to do a full 'motor out' as the dealer suggested. I wanted to make sure I completed this vacuum project correctly and it was then @Johnny Hotspur GT GT video clip (motor out) view of this entire vacuum plumbing that was the second item that was so insightful in solving this expensive issue.
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJIFcur1OEM&t=14s
I took both of these posts and then jumped in on my own car. After removing the fender liners I disconnected the pass. side rack and pinion at the ball joint. I wired it up high to the ceiling and retracted the rack all the way to the right, giving maximum access into the vacuum plumbing connections behind the rack. With long nose hose pliers I was able to save the right angle elbow shown in the attached slides. This elbow is connected to "T" no. 2 in the attached slides. Then it was simply a matter of adding the new aluminum line under the subframe to two new “T”’s on the passenger side. This re-enabled all of the vacuum functions and fully abandons the original line that remains dormant behind the rack. After final fitting I smoke tested the entire system and had zero leaks. I created the attached slides for the next guy who has to confront this issue. Hope it helps.
A very sincere thanks to @Stevieshutts and @Johnny Hotspur GT GT for initiative and creativity.
What a great forum.
So I bought the car. This was largely based on my new confidence that I wouldn't have to do a full 'motor out' as the dealer suggested. I wanted to make sure I completed this vacuum project correctly and it was then @Johnny Hotspur GT GT video clip (motor out) view of this entire vacuum plumbing that was the second item that was so insightful in solving this expensive issue.
See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJIFcur1OEM&t=14s
I took both of these posts and then jumped in on my own car. After removing the fender liners I disconnected the pass. side rack and pinion at the ball joint. I wired it up high to the ceiling and retracted the rack all the way to the right, giving maximum access into the vacuum plumbing connections behind the rack. With long nose hose pliers I was able to save the right angle elbow shown in the attached slides. This elbow is connected to "T" no. 2 in the attached slides. Then it was simply a matter of adding the new aluminum line under the subframe to two new “T”’s on the passenger side. This re-enabled all of the vacuum functions and fully abandons the original line that remains dormant behind the rack. After final fitting I smoke tested the entire system and had zero leaks. I created the attached slides for the next guy who has to confront this issue. Hope it helps.
A very sincere thanks to @Stevieshutts and @Johnny Hotspur GT GT for initiative and creativity.
What a great forum.
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