Hi all. My 2013 Continental is having an AC issue. It intermittently stops working and blows regular outside air. Then works great for a while with cold air, and then suddenly blows outside air again. I had the level of coolant checked and the mechanic says its full. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

Could be the blend doors need to be reprogrammed. Happened to me on a 2009.

 

i dont have knowledge about ac system in gt, but there are two common issues in cars besides coolant:
1. worn flap gears, they are blocked or sometimes do not open / close fully - so this requres flap gears, or the flaps itself to replace
2. callibration issues - you need to use computer to do the adaptations - gt should have it / not checked on my own so far.

 

Great Thanks all. I will let the mechanic know

 

​​​​​​Hello @lalaw5000 ,
I understand that you had the level checked, and that the mechanic says it's full, and by coolant, I believe you meant refrigerant, and by level I believe you meant pressures, as one can not check the exact level of refrigerant without evacuating the refrigerant and weighing said refrigerant to determine the amount of charge, which should be between 580-620 Grams (20-22 oz), you can find the amount of charge for your 2013 under the hood, as the grams/oz's I quoted above are for the 2009 to 2011 range, older GT/FS had 630-670 Grams (22-24 oz), your 2013 may have less than the 580-620 Grams/20-22oz, so be sure to check your label under the hood.

As to checking the pressures with gauges, your mechanic should have informed you as to if the compressor was running at the proper pressures according to ambient temperature, meaning that the high side was somewhere between 150-200psi, and the low side around 30-40ish psi iirc, if the high side is running higher and rising, and the low side is sucking down below 20psi or lower, like I had 380+psi and 10psi, then the orifice is must likely clogged or on it's way to being clogged, and that is the sign of a failing compressor, see my pics, or if the pressures are to close together, that could be a failing N280 solenoid, the N280 is located on the compressor itself, and requires at total refrigerant evacuation to be able to remove said n280, as does the orifice.

As to you saying that the air keeps switching to outside air, I take it that you mean that the air temperature out of the vents just get warm/cool as the temperature of the inside of the vehicle, not that the recirculation of the air keeps switching from inside (recirculated) air to outside fresh air, do you have it set for always recirculate, or automatic recirculation, when this problem happens, do you notice that the "econ" is on, and can not be turned off ?

A faulty G65 high pressure sensor switch could also cause the compressor to kick on and off, giving you the scenario you have.

Johnny