Hello all! Pleasure to be part of the community! I bought a 2014 Flying Spur in what I thought was spanking new condition (remarkably only 1000 miles on it), from what I can tell serviced well and no worn parts. Thoroughly checked common issues I found online and looking at other used ‘14 FS in the 35-45k mile range including making sure all buttons working, no trunk issues, no suspension problems etc. I found only an issue with the rear passenger side shade not working that was easily fixed. I had it delivered to TX and super excited about it, wanted to protect the Glacier White factory paint in pristine condition (kept in an indoor showroom for 9 years) so sent it for PPF but just prior we noted the trunk wasn’t opening appropriately with key, driver side button or trunk B. This required a $400 “module reset” and then the PPF guys broke the R rear window taking the handle off so was sent to the shop for replacement. There they found the trunk struts were getting weak and a new issue with the L rear window up/down and no lights to the L rear window. The rear remote thing also now is just a black screen but was functional. I replaced the struts myself but now the motor doesn’t seem to take the trunk up on its own but at least the B, key and driver side button will initiate the latch, hopefully not a motor issue I was fearful of.

1. Is this just another “module reset” that I need to do and can someone knowledgable point me to resources to be able to “hook up” the vehicle to the “computer” and do this myself so I don’t have to take it to the shop and pay $400 every time ?

2. is this going to a constant issue with constant resets ? Do I need to fix something electrical-wise in this vehicle?

3. should I sell the car before I lose my a**? Engine-wise it’s still a beast and super fun but if I can’t fix these small issues may not be worth the long haul and just go back to Mercedes?

4. In a car largely sitting in a showroom like this, what do you think I should replace? I’m limited in my abilities right now so replaced a lot of the basic fuses. Should I be replacing some of the bigger fuses, spark plugs, other electrical? New tires and new batteries on it even though I still need to trickle charge every time. $500 “inspection” (they didnt drop the engine which I was hoping they would do) didn’t yield anything except spark plug and steering fluid replacement suggestions but we don’t know if these were replaced before.

thank you guys so much and excited to be a part of the community and will contribute back in whatever ways I can

 

It’s a great car but surely a money pit 😂. Some things that failed on mine include the trunk struts. The trunk would have to be pressed twice to open. The dealer replaced them for $400 in November but now the trunk has trouble closing. It springs back up when I close it. Other issues include suspension. I had both front struts replaced in September for around $4,000. Generally, if you go to the dealership, you can expect around $10k-$15k per year in repairs but as I have recently decided, I will most likely be going to a good independent shop due to the amount I have spent at the dealer. ($45k) you can check out my other threads for more info on the car. Hope you enjoy the car!

 

Hello,

Congrats on the 14 Spur!! As to your recent post and comment below regarding boot/ trunk struts:

" I replaced the struts myself but now the motor doesn’t seem to take the trunk up on its own"

Did you use the factory replacement struts or aftermarket? Aftermarket is fine IF the units are of the correct pressure rating.


Also most here use RossTech VCDS as a diagnostic tool. Check that out on line. I think $400.00 for a module reset is out of line. You can get the RossTech set up for less and be self sufficient.

 

When I replaced the trunk struts in an '09 they were too stiff till I lubed the struts and hinges with FluidFilm lubricant.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluid-Film-AS-11-Accessories/dp/B01FSYYB8O/ref=sr_1_5?crid=247QOH9LKKA36&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.qTs dijrZ6ZMsY4G5QfetXoc1sYg716bLWqB0_OadZ5ysJCf4OXaa6 B6fBHbgPtticc5zN9yTEqVKIcukGepOfGTCeKmVrj8Zyl9AHBI uFVq4_15uxFxD8LOyk_fMxWCOmU0mbFa5I5cfmAD6qQMbsYoiX LlhyJ5ZbuDbrG0dW9ehnEScBEguot1xT-c8CJ_tW72LN2xYTOcz8ZBpBgPxkQaR61OobDyhRhi1WdX4RdSu wQajN8HoFUTO_rkVDkPUKRIqhZAzV-J0l9XHFdKhDHCd4zlVfZz-d6glJW8LEQI.68FWWYBrulBRMvaoDDQX3Mmf2pqiS_eDGiBzhA 3-hGU&dib_tag=se&keywords=fluid+film&qid=1711646697& s=automotive&sprefix=fluid+fil%2Cautomotive%2C2136 &sr=1-5

 

yeah - on one side it is super cool to get so short-millage car (probably it looks like brand new from the dealer exposition) on the other when you get 100k+ one is obvious - there should be a lot of stuff already fixed (and you with your 1000miles care have all this in front of you).

Also the car (especially B) does not like no driving - to have it in good health it must be driven.

 

A more likely issue is the struts not being of the correct cylinder pressure. I went through 4 pairs of eBay after market struts before getting ones that were the exact correct length and correct strut cylinder pressure.

 

Possibly, but I tried two sets from different suppliers with the same result. Could also have been that the motor was weak but the Fluid Film lube on both the struts and hinges got it working.

 

Hello @EightFunds ,
Welcome to 6speedonline !

As to your acquisition of your 2014 FS with 1000 miles, congratulations, post some pics when you have a chance.

As to your questions, I am not sure if you are pulling our leg, or being serious, or maybe you are not mechanically inclined, as your comment of the "$500 inspection" and " they didn't drop the engine as I was hoping they would do", you can not be serious, for $500, more like $5000 - $6000 at an indy to drop and reinstall...

As to fuses, fuses are either good or bad, blown or not, nothing in-between, maybe some corrosion at the connection points, but only if the vehicle water damaged or stored in a very damp environment, but this vehicle was stored in a showroom, so a non issue, the issue is, by your pulling of the "basic fuses", you are creating issues, as you are interrupting the power to certain items/modules, don't do that.

Spark plugs, again, a non issue, they only have a thousand miles on them, Spark plugs do not go bad from a vehicle sitting in a showroom.

You say the batteries are new, how new, you say you still have to "trickle charge", did you mean to say that you use a battery maintenance charger like the CTEK 7002, if not, that is what you need, not a standard trickle charger for use on any battery, remember, if you do not daily drive the vehicle, you need to have the battery tender plugged in.

As to your paying "$400 for module reset", there is really no resetting of said module, there is reading, clearing of faults, or coding, your issue would have likely worked itself out with use of the vehicle, as these faults happen whenever you have low / weak / dead battery/batteries, or even by disconnecting the battery or batteries, I have the same with my trunk lid, soft close doors, seat positions, steering column up down, in out, windows stop points for up and down on the GT when I forget to hook up the battery tender, or someone else unplugs it to use the cord, or I disconnect the house battery for any reason, I just go through the standard use of each item to reset, the trunk lid by raising it to it's highest point by hand, then using the power close button on the lid, sometimes I may have to use a screwdriver to simulate the striker, the press the B, then the latch mechanism goes through it's calibration procedure, and all is good.

As others have said, get yourself the Ross-Tech VCDS, it will save you lots.

As to your left rear window and switch (lighting) not operating as should, was this before or after the PPF, if after, most likely a plug connection was missed while reinstalling the door panel.

What I would do is an engine oil/filter change, and a brake fluid flush, possibly the power steering fluid also, depending on color and level, hopefully all fluid will be full, that would be a great sign of no seepage after sitting for 9 years.

Johnny

 

In troubleshooting the same trunk lid issue, it turned out to be the module. I ordered the module and installed it myself. As Johnny said, it did NOT require any settings or programming to work properly. I also replaced the struts with OEM parts to avoid issues. Again, worked perfectly after installation. VCDS is a must if you want to perform some of the basic maintenance (other VAG vehicles in the family made it an easy decision). Enjoy!

 

Welcome aboard, you will definitely want to get the RossTech VCDS https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS/ I originally got the V2 Enthusiast version with the cable, but after using it some wish I would have gotten the wireless model just so I don't have to mess with the cable or limit or keep the laptop connected if checking something when I am not sitting in the car. Pretty much IMHO if you see something posted by Johnny, take it as the official "word" since he has disassembled his car and has a wealth of knowledge. The rest of the board is also very knowledgeable and are really into the technical end of these cars and this is the best board I have seen on cares. Here is Johnny's rebuild and it is fun and informative reading to look at https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-pictures.html

I also recommend getting the IETIS view which has tons of information on the older Bentley's if you are going to do your own work, even though it may not be completely current for your newer model year https://www.flyingspares.com/parts-workshop-manual-usb-stick-cgt-gtc-flying-spur-models-wt01000-usb.html

Read through this forum, there is a ton of information and you should be able to pick up some pointers. Note some of the parts can be crossed to VW parts which will save you a considerable amount at times 99% of the time over Bentley parts. Same part, different box in many cases. Read the forums to get examples.

 

Thanks to you all for the wealth of information! Sorry for the delay as I guess it doesn't send me an email notice after a bit about when responses show up.
@Dgeedhar Thanks for the warm welcome! I usually try to avoid the dealership for everything but the idea was clinched when an indy helped me out more than the dealership when trying to figure out how to open the trunk manually when it wasn't working.

@1eapplebaum Thanks for the info. I bought the struts from: Come back ⚡ (alpineperformance.com). Seemed to match and even though I consider myself a noob, I thought a trunk strut replacement was simple enough for me. Are you and @BruceR @Randy V saying that I should still apply some FluidFilm lube to troubleshoot? I thought these were new struts but I guess the are considered aftermarket. Have I been duped and do I have to pay for official OEM from Bentley or do you guys have other suggestions? Thanks in advance for opening my mind.

@Johnny Hotspur GT Thanks for the information, I could tell from your other responses on other posts you are a Bentley Encyclopedia so thanks for helping me. I thought they would do a bit more for $500 than just visually inspect everything as a lot of the stuff in the engine I thought they had to be more thorough to see but I am not knowledgable enough to know exactly what they should check for. Appreciate your insight on the stuff I should look to replace, no one gave me any indication I needed to urgently replace any fluids, just a suggestion based on time but I will double check with a different indy.
As for the batteries, they are both NEW however I still even after a short drive have to come back and hook it up to the OEM Bentley trickle charger (similar to CTEK 7002 just with a Bentley logo) that came to the vehicle that shows it is below 25% but then rapidly goes to full charge within an hour. The first time I did this it took overnight to fully charge so I'm sure the faults I mentioned were due to weak batteries as you mentioned.
I do not entirely know what you mean by "work itself out" as for example the rear entertainment remote has a black screen and seems to pull out and in on its own (wasn't doing this when I first got it) so I feel if I do nothing it will just stay that way. Are you saying that may potentially autocorrect? The left rear door no one reportedly opened up and touched, and the window was definitely working, not 100% of the lights. I guess possible someone lied about opening it up, of note I did find what looks to be a door screw on the floor so maybe the a**holes did open it up and rushed to close it. I will try to DIY this to take a look, THANKS. Will try to play around with the trunk as you mentioned but seems a bit ghetto to do that for a $240k list price car

Thanks all and @DesotoJohn @Mars911 for the Ross-Tech VCDS recommendation and other info! Exactly what I was looking for from this forum !!!

 

Others and myself have had success with the attached struts. Your issue may indeed be a lubrication problem. So try some Fluid Film first...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37290574192...mis&media=COPY

 

Thanks @1eapplebaum so just rub the lube on ? If this doesn't work it would point to cylindrical pressure vs motor issue? I like the price you sent on the link. This is specifically for the 2014 FS I assume? Doesn't really seem to say car model fitment anywhere...

 

Fluid Film is a medium viscosity lubricant. You would use it on the hinges of the trunk. As to the struts on Ebay they are generic and not specifically for a B. The gas pressure is correct regardimg the attached Ebay listing. Make sure your struts are 10in center to center on the ball openings, a fully extended strut. Otherwise if yous are different than my recommendation won't be applicable.

 

Thanks @1eapplebaum . I would still think I have to apply it to the struts and hinges as @BruceR mentioned. Again the order was:

Trunk opening fine at dealer
Trunk started having issues opening intermittently with driver side button, B button and key
Trunk no longer opening, need to use manual cord to open
"Reset module" (from what they told me, I understood this to mean they connected it to the diagnostics and reset it)
Trunk opening but not staying open 100% of the time
(Struts replaced)
Trunk no longer able to fully open on own but will open with Driver side, B button, key push but then I have to manually keep opening

To me what makes sense is if the struts are incorrect pressure or not lubed or if the motor "burned out" when the struts weren't able to assist with the load or maybe an electric reset needed