Egt special tool
#1
Egt special tool
Hi all
Would anyone be able to help with the dimensions of the EGT special tool so I could make one.
I know it's 17 mm nut but what are the dimensions etc if I were to try and make one.
The tool dosnt look that hard to make and Bentley want some where near £300.
Bit of a rip off if you ask me.
Any drawings etc would be greatly appreciated.
Would anyone be able to help with the dimensions of the EGT special tool so I could make one.
I know it's 17 mm nut but what are the dimensions etc if I were to try and make one.
The tool dosnt look that hard to make and Bentley want some where near £300.
Bit of a rip off if you ask me.
Any drawings etc would be greatly appreciated.
#2
Hello @Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
I have some pictures here of the tool that @pupdogg posted back in 2021.
What is odd is that the Bentley illustration only shows it in use on the passenger side (LHD) in the vertical position, and it looks like it may only be for use on the one side, unless one were to lay it flat horizontally and use a long 3/8 extension on the other side, because the passenger side is at the 9:30 ish position, therefore easy to put the tool on the sensor head with the tool in the vertical position, but then the drivers side is at the 1:00 ish position, therfore no vertical position of the tool, unless you bend a 90 at the socket end and use an adjustable wrench on the flat bar itself, after doing the first side... 🙄 😉
EDIT: 💡 went off, the oem tool can not be laid flat horizontally for the drivers side (LHD) and used from above, as the tool has both the 17mm sensor socket and the 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet socket on the same side, so, both facing down, possibly insert the ratchet and extension from the underside of the vehicle ?? End EDIT.
When making the tool, I think that I would make the socket a little bit deeper, to give a little more clearance for the sensor tubing sleeve, as it's looks like the oem tool may be cutting it a bit close, wouldn't want to bend or put any pressure on said tube.
May I ask your reason for removal, if for fault codes, I would be cutting open the offending box and re-soldering the 5 points on each board.
Johnny
.
I have some pictures here of the tool that @pupdogg posted back in 2021.
What is odd is that the Bentley illustration only shows it in use on the passenger side (LHD) in the vertical position, and it looks like it may only be for use on the one side, unless one were to lay it flat horizontally and use a long 3/8 extension on the other side, because the passenger side is at the 9:30 ish position, therefore easy to put the tool on the sensor head with the tool in the vertical position, but then the drivers side is at the 1:00 ish position, therfore no vertical position of the tool, unless you bend a 90 at the socket end and use an adjustable wrench on the flat bar itself, after doing the first side... 🙄 😉
EDIT: 💡 went off, the oem tool can not be laid flat horizontally for the drivers side (LHD) and used from above, as the tool has both the 17mm sensor socket and the 3/8 or 1/2 inch ratchet socket on the same side, so, both facing down, possibly insert the ratchet and extension from the underside of the vehicle ?? End EDIT.
When making the tool, I think that I would make the socket a little bit deeper, to give a little more clearance for the sensor tubing sleeve, as it's looks like the oem tool may be cutting it a bit close, wouldn't want to bend or put any pressure on said tube.
May I ask your reason for removal, if for fault codes, I would be cutting open the offending box and re-soldering the 5 points on each board.
Johnny
.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 07-22-2024 at 05:02 PM.
#3
Thanks Johnny,
I should be able to make one of those from your picture.
How long is the socket bit welded to the bar and is the slot in the socket a specific width.
I see the dilemma as to drivers side v passenger.
As to faults, no nor at the moment. However I now have a nearly a full set of engine sensors in the boot incase I get a problem driving Europe. I could be 3000 miles from home at the furthest point so a full set of sensors is a feel good think. I do though, have to be able to change them on the hoof so to speak. The EGT looks exceptionally pesky..
I should be able to make one of those from your picture.
How long is the socket bit welded to the bar and is the slot in the socket a specific width.
I see the dilemma as to drivers side v passenger.
As to faults, no nor at the moment. However I now have a nearly a full set of engine sensors in the boot incase I get a problem driving Europe. I could be 3000 miles from home at the furthest point so a full set of sensors is a feel good think. I do though, have to be able to change them on the hoof so to speak. The EGT looks exceptionally pesky..
Last edited by Frank ( Sunnyside ); 07-23-2024 at 12:52 AM.
#4
Hello @Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
Sorry, but in case you missed it, I do not have the tool, the pictures of the tool are from @pupdogg back in 2021.
I have to work on mine soon, maybe this weekend, but I am going the re-soldering of the 5 points on the board approach, no sense pulling the probe when it is not the cause of the fault, as if you recall, someone here had a shop break their exhaust manifold where the probe screws in, you certainly do not want that to happen on the road away from home, it may be better to re-solder the board prior to your road trip, or install the replacement boards, or board, as it always seems to be the left side facing the engine as the one to fail, it must be hotter at the rear of the engine compared to front, as the one in the front never seems to fail, at least that I have seen here, it's always the black box one, not the brown one.
Edit: I wonder if a tool like this would work for both sides, as a long 3/8 breaker could be used on the left side for the side position, but then a long 3/8 extension for this tool on the right side facing the engine.
Johnny
Sorry, but in case you missed it, I do not have the tool, the pictures of the tool are from @pupdogg back in 2021.
I have to work on mine soon, maybe this weekend, but I am going the re-soldering of the 5 points on the board approach, no sense pulling the probe when it is not the cause of the fault, as if you recall, someone here had a shop break their exhaust manifold where the probe screws in, you certainly do not want that to happen on the road away from home, it may be better to re-solder the board prior to your road trip, or install the replacement boards, or board, as it always seems to be the left side facing the engine as the one to fail, it must be hotter at the rear of the engine compared to front, as the one in the front never seems to fail, at least that I have seen here, it's always the black box one, not the brown one.
Edit: I wonder if a tool like this would work for both sides, as a long 3/8 breaker could be used on the left side for the side position, but then a long 3/8 extension for this tool on the right side facing the engine.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 07-26-2024 at 07:44 PM.
#5
Hi Johnny,
Thank you for the info and advice.
I did see something like that on EBAY, I might take a closer look. If I find something else I will post it on here.
As the the black box, I have 2 brand new egt sensors in my tool box in the back of the car, and I have gas soldering iron. As a last resort on holiday, I suppose I could change out the defective board and leave the old probe in place??
It's interesting that most car manufacturers use an egt with a 2 wire plug attached. The amplifier and processing bit is in the ecu.
I wonder if the probe wires could be extended and the black box moved to somewhere cooler and easier to get to?
Thank you for the info and advice.
I did see something like that on EBAY, I might take a closer look. If I find something else I will post it on here.
As the the black box, I have 2 brand new egt sensors in my tool box in the back of the car, and I have gas soldering iron. As a last resort on holiday, I suppose I could change out the defective board and leave the old probe in place??
It's interesting that most car manufacturers use an egt with a 2 wire plug attached. The amplifier and processing bit is in the ecu.
I wonder if the probe wires could be extended and the black box moved to somewhere cooler and easier to get to?
#6
Johnny, is it normally just the black circuit box that fails or is it common for the probe to fail also.
I ask because your suggestion of soldering a new black circuit box sounds like a good idea. At worse I could unsolder the new probe on the new egt sensor and solder the original probe back on leaving the old probe still in the engine.
Are the probes known to fail??
I ask because your suggestion of soldering a new black circuit box sounds like a good idea. At worse I could unsolder the new probe on the new egt sensor and solder the original probe back on leaving the old probe still in the engine.
Are the probes known to fail??
#7
Hello @Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
From what I have read, it is not the probe that fails, and quite a few have shown that the circuitry ( printed circuit, chips) on the board itself have not failed, it was simply the 5 solder points that solder the 2 pins/wires from the probe, and the 3 pins/wires from the plug to the board that fail, due to cracked/cold solder joints.
Some others have replaced the circuit board itself with an aftermarket replacement.
The pictures I took from the internet show the 5 points I highlighted, and others show the board removed for replacement, this way, you can clearly see the 5 points in question.
Johnny
.
From what I have read, it is not the probe that fails, and quite a few have shown that the circuitry ( printed circuit, chips) on the board itself have not failed, it was simply the 5 solder points that solder the 2 pins/wires from the probe, and the 3 pins/wires from the plug to the board that fail, due to cracked/cold solder joints.
Some others have replaced the circuit board itself with an aftermarket replacement.
The pictures I took from the internet show the 5 points I highlighted, and others show the board removed for replacement, this way, you can clearly see the 5 points in question.
Johnny
.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 07-29-2024 at 06:44 PM.
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#8
Hello @Frank ( Sunnyside ) ,
From what I have read, it is not the probe that fails, and quite a few have shown that the circuitry ( printed circuit, chips) on the board itself have not failed, it was simply the 5 solder points that solder the 2 pins/wires from the probe, and the 3 pins/wires from the plug to the board that fail, due to cracked/cold solder joints.
Some others have replaced the circuit board itself with an aftermarket replacement.
The pictures I took from the internet show the 5 points I highlighted, and others show the board removed for replacement, this way, you can clearly see the 5 points in question.
Johnny
.
From what I have read, it is not the probe that fails, and quite a few have shown that the circuitry ( printed circuit, chips) on the board itself have not failed, it was simply the 5 solder points that solder the 2 pins/wires from the probe, and the 3 pins/wires from the plug to the board that fail, due to cracked/cold solder joints.
Some others have replaced the circuit board itself with an aftermarket replacement.
The pictures I took from the internet show the 5 points I highlighted, and others show the board removed for replacement, this way, you can clearly see the 5 points in question.
Johnny
.
so soldering has got to be the way to go.
Thanks again.
Frank.
#10
This YouTube video among other things shows the Sid Motor Sports, Poland EGT pcb boards installation.
https://youtu.be/4RxkN3ve1Ng?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/4RxkN3ve1Ng?feature=shared
Frank.
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