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Hello @Cervezax ,
Being that you say you jumped both relays, please be clear, did you jump one at a time to prove that the main fuel pump is working, and that you are not just running on the secondary pump.
I would pop the covers off of each relay and verify the voltage is being sent to the relay to energize it when cranking the engine over.
Hello @Cervezax ,
Being that you say you jumped both relays, please be clear, did you jump one at a time to prove that the main fuel pump is working, and that you are not just running on the secondary pump.
I would pop the covers off of each relay and verify the voltage is being sent to the relay to energize it when cranking the engine over.
Johnny
Hi Johnny,
Big thanks for your help!
I will test it later.
Will keep you informed what i will find out.
Hello @Cervezax ,
Being that you say you jumped both relays, please be clear, did you jump one at a time to prove that the main fuel pump is working, and that you are not just running on the secondary pump.
I would pop the covers off of each relay and verify the voltage is being sent to the relay to energize it when cranking the engine over.
Johnny
Hey Johnny!
now I have tested one relay after the other.
And I have some new results.
Car shuts down after some time
Car runs.
next step I will open the relays and have a look if they get the signal when I crank the car.
just wait for a second man to test it.
EDIT!!!: I testet it with a second person.
on the right side we have 12V coming to the relay
and on the left side we have 10.8V
Hello @Cervezax ,
Ok, being that you proved that one fuel pump is actually keeping the engine running after the 20 seconds with the jumper, but the other it dies, then take the 12 (line) volts from the good side relay socket and jump it to the other relay (load) socket, or just feed it 12 volts right from the battery, this is to prove that the fuel pump is functional, as IIRC, both pumps run on start up, then switches to one pump, that is why you are getting 20 seconds of run time, most likely it is a failed main pump.
As to the 12 volts vs 10.8 volts, please clarify, is that on the big blade sockets for pump feed, or the smaller blade sockets for the energizing of the relay ?
Johnny
.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 07-26-2024 at 06:29 PM.
Hello @Cervezax ,
Ok, being that you proved that one fuel pump is actually keeping the engine running after the 20 seconds with the jumper, but the other it dies, then take the 12 (line) volts from the good side relay socket and jump it to the other relay (load) socket, or just feed it 12 volts right from the battery, this is to prove that the fuel pump is functional, as IIRC, both pumps run on start up, then switches to one pump, that is why you are getting 20 seconds of run time, most likely it is a failed main pump.
As to the 12 volts vs 10.8 volts, please clarify, is that on the big blade sockets for pump feed, or the smaller blade sockets for the energizing of the relay ?
Hi Johnny,
the 12volts vs 10.8 volts is on the small sockets for the energizing.
We will now work on the car again to jump the 12volts from the good side to the bad side of the energizing pins.
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 07-31-2024 at 06:29 AM.
Reason: Fix quote
the 12volts vs 10.8 volts is on the small sockets for the energizing.
We will now work on the car again to jump the 12volts from the good side to the bad side of the energizing pins.
Hello @Cervezax ,
It is not the jumping of the energizing (small) pins for the relay, it is to apply 12volts + to the big (load) socket of the fuel pump in question, the one that you say the vehicle shuts down, I believe that is the relay slot to the front as shown in your picture, just as you jumped one slot at a time, and one jumper allowed the vehicle to run, but the other jumper the engine died, so you should apply 12+ from the battery to the big (load) socket in question to supply power to said pump, which brings to question, are both 20 amp fuses (F34 / F35) in the boot for the fuel pumps good, do you have 12 volts at the big (line) socket on each relay slot, you must on one of them, as that one jumper allowed the engine to run on, whereas the other it died after 20 seconds, the one that died is the one we need to verify 12 volts from it's fuse to (line) socket, then jump or feed 12+ volts to it's (load) socket, this is to simply verify that this pump actually is in working order, by removing the relay and jumping or feeding power to the big (load) socket to feed power directly to the pump in question, therefore you are taking the relays and ecm out of the equation, and strictly running each pump manually.
So when you said that you had 12 volts and 10.8 volts, you were only talking about the energizing power feeds to the relay small sockets, as the diagram shows, there are actually 4 fuses to run the fuel pumps, F6 in the E-Box under the bonnet to energize one relay, and F33 in the luggage fuse box to energize the other relay, the F34 and F35 in the same luggage fuse box to power each fuel pump, so let's verify all fuses, then jump or power the pump in question to verify it is operational, and not a dead pump, then after if it works and the engine runs on, then let's check the ecm and fbcm after, if the engine doesn't run on, then the pump is bad.
Johnny
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 07-31-2024 at 07:42 AM.
Reason: Spelling
Hello @Cervezax ,
It is not the jumping of the energizing (small) pins for the relay, it is to apply 12volts + to the big (load) socket of the fuel pump in question, the one that you say the vehicle shuts down, I believe that is the relay slot to the front as shown in your picture, just as you jumped one slot at a time, and one jumper allowed the vehicle to run, but the other jumper the engine died, so you should apply 12+ from the battery to the big (load) socket in question to supply power to said pump, which brings to question, are both 20 amp fuses (F34 / F35) in the boot for the fuel pumps good, do you have 12 volts at the big (line) socket on each relay slot, you must on one of them, as that one jumper allowed the engine to run on, whereas the other it died after 20 seconds, the one that died is the one we need to verify 12 volts from it's fuse to (line) socket, then jump or feed 12+ volts to it's (load) socket, this is to simply verify that this pump actually is in working order, by removing the relay and jumping or feeding power to the big (load) socket to feed power directly to the pump in question, therefore you are taking the relays and ecm out of the equation, and strictly running each pump manually.
So when you said that you had 12 volts and 10.8 volts, you were only talking about the energizing power feeds to the relay small sockets, as the diagram shows, there are actually 4 fuses to run the fuel pumps, F6 in the E-Box under the bonnet to energize one relay, and F33 in the luggage fuse box to energize the other relay, the F34 and F35 in the same luggage fuse box to power each fuel pump, so let's verify all fuses, then jump or power the pump in question to verify it is operational, and not a dead pump, then after if it works and the engine runs on, then let's check the ecm and fbcm after, if the engine doesn't run on, then the pump is bad.
Johnny
Hi Johnny,
we now put 12V direct from the battery to the big pins.
First the left one - everything okay
then the right one - everything okay
then we start with checking the pins from the ecu.
We checked the wire of Pin 119 to the fuse box - We have electrical connection
ON PIN 65 - we have NO electrical connection.
So we will put in a new wire from Pin 65 to the fuse box tomorrow and have a look if it will work.
keep you updated.
rgs
CerVeZaX
Last edited by Johnny Hotspur GT; 07-31-2024 at 10:01 AM.
07-25-2024, 05:29 AM
