Guys, loving the forum knowledge, and Jonnys rebuild just amazes me!

Anyway got a question to ask and hopefully someone can validate my thoughts.

I have a Gen 1 GT and I have the 2 button valet key fob and another original 3 button that came with the car. I’ve bought it from a friend and it’s had a massive refurb not long again so runs very well. But I’m in a key dilemma…..

2 Button (aka valet key) does the following:
Remote opens the car
physically opens the car using door lock
Keyless starts the car
physically can start the car with key in barrel


3 Button (aka master) does the following:
Doesn’t remote open car or boot
physically opens car using door lock with key
doesnt keyless start car
physically doesn’t start the car or disengage alarm using key in barrel

Car also has spec sheet of Keyless operation btw.

so what’s my best option with the dealer to get my master key back online? And I could also do wi5 another key so what’s my options (ps I’ve seen all the kessy and eeprom soldering options and don’t have the skills for that or a Ross tech but I’ll get one)

thanks
paul

 

Hello,

The 3 button key may not be the original key fob unit? Also there is a possibility that the transponder chip in the fob is bad. A bad transpotransponder chip in these keys isn't a practical repair.

Possibly, someone with advanced knowledge could try to pair your non functional key with your vehicle and valet key. That requires extracting the security key code. Unless you have the 4 Digit code in your car's records? A key fob coded to another car can not be married to a different car. Additionally the physical key that opens the door could have been transferred from the original key fob. Sorry to say that there isn't a streight foward answer.

 

Hello @CUE99T ,
Just for clarification of your comments.
The 2 button valet key/fob is doing what it should do, BUT, it also should not allow access to the boot via door panel switch nor the "B" on the bootlid, nor should the key-blade allow you to lock or unlock the glovebox, or the rear seat pass-thru if your pass-thru is equipped with said lock cylinder, So, I understand that the 3 button master fob is not working as far as the buttons ("remote"), nor keyless to start, or physical key-blade to start, but, is it allowing keyless entry to the doors and boot, otherwise, how are you opening the boot ?

Have you tried using the master key in the ignition switch by turning to the right and holding for 5 seconds or so, when you insert the master into the ignition switch, do you get any message in the DIS ?

Just to note, the ignition switch has no tumblers, so any vag key-blade will turn it, even a screwdriver..

Edit:
You could try inserting the valet key-blade into the ignition switch, turn the ignition on to power up the dash, then with the window down and the door closed, insert the master key-blade into the door lock cylinder then turn and hold to the left while holding the unlock button on said fob, the green light in the fob should flash faster iirc.

Also, please add your location to your profile, someone close by may help.

Johnny

 

this is true that the key might not be the master but I think it maybe worked at some time as my friend didn’t say it has never worked.

I’ve seen Jonny talk about 4 digit codes etc and I doubt I have that as I’ve seen what it looks like and don’t see it in my glove box or any of the manuals or service books etc written down or as a physical key type thing etc.

 

Jonny, I was hoping you’d have a comment as I have read a lot of your answers for other key posts and your build has impressed quite a few including myself so well done for that. I will have some other questions for you in due course but first the keys.

To answer your question - I can open the boot using the valet key when unlocking using the buttons on the remote to open the car. I can use both the boot open door switch and the press of the B on boot when using the valet key. My car is Spanish validated and I have the full build sheet, it was first registered in Andorra from new which is where it still resides.

So I tried your example of opening the car with the valet key, then putting the valet key 10ft away from the car, then putting the master key fob and barrel into the ignition and turning it for over 5 seconds and it turns over and starts but then dies and the image on the dash shows “immobiliser activated”. Funnily enough it worked and started and kept running once out of about 10 tries but overall it kills the engine after a start. Now if I lock the car using valet fob and then use the master to open the car with the key barrel physically and then try the master key in the dash and turn it for any length of time it simply kicks off the alarm, and the only way to turn the alarm off is to use the valet key.

Ps - I tried the 2 key approach as mentioned in your edit section but it does nothing. I was hoping it might bring the key back to life but sadly no.

ill update my profile btw. 👌

appreciate all the comments.

 

@CUE99T ,
Can you please post some pictures of the keyfobs you have, (are they 04-06 style, or 07 and newer), along with the year of your GT, I am guessing by your speedometer and shifter to it being an 04, possibly 05, also tell us if you replaced the battery in the master fob.

As to the valet fob allowing access to the boot by both the door panel switch and the B on the bootlid, that is totally 100% wrong in the method of operation, the valet fob is to render those switches inoperable, makes me wonder if someone put the guts of a master fob into a valet fob case, I mean, it would fit perfectly, as the boot button is in the center on the master, but a blank center on the valet, what else could allow a valet fob to act as a master, something is not right with that valet fob.

As to the master working 1 out of 10 times, could be the fob battery, how does the led in each fob compare to each other in brightness, being that the master got the dash to power up and start the engine is a good sign, did the engine die just after 2 seconds, if so, that is as you saw, the immo kicking in because the fob lost signal or did not complete validation with the KESSY module fast enough.

Johnny

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Jonny thanks for the reply. I agree with everything you say.

i have the 2 button as you show in your first pic, then I have a 3 button version of the same design not the newer version as yes my model is a 2004 version.

ill have a look at keys tomorrow as just going to bed but thanks for the replies so far.

i might swap a battery and the insides between the fobs and see what that does.

both light up the same strength and I have some batteries to replace them so can do that for both.

it deffo starts the car then dies 2 secs later as you suggest.

IF we can get this working then the next question is WHY does my keyless entry not work as it’s in the build sheet!? 😂

 

@CUE99T ,
Have a good night's rest, it's almost 2AM for you I believe.

As to your keyless entry not working, that was one of my questions in post #3, but only as to the master, now, I take it that your keyless entry is not working with either fob, so I ask, is this with both doors, have you tried the passenger door for keyless entry, and more importantly, are your door handles wrapped, is the button on each door handle freely moving for a push in and return out, is the inside of the handle wrapped also, therefore blocking the reaction from your fingers as the grip the inside of the handle, as that is were the touch sensor is, on the inside of the hand.

Johnny

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Yeah just hit 2am here but I’m wide awake lol

yeah both doors don’t work. I do have that little push sensor as the car isn’t wrapped it’s a custom paint finish so hasn’t affected anything factory fitted.

I’ll do pics of the keys and insides of keys and also a set of pics for the handles inside and out and just double check both doors aren’t working. You’re right neither fob does it.

 

Paul,
Can you ask your friend if the exterior door handles were removed during any of the work performed in painting the vehicle, therefore the interior door panels would have had to been removed, and a possibility that someone forgot to plug in the little 7 pin green plug for each door handle, that would explain the keyless not working, but let's be sure, so tell me, does the button on either door handle do anything when pressed in, it should lock the doors, and if held long enough, put up all the windows if open.

EDIT: SKIP THIS PULLING OF THE EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE IN THE DARK, THIS HAS TO DO WITH PULLING THE HANDLE, THEREFORE THAT IS TESTING THE LATCH MECHANISM WIRING.

(another test would be in the dark, when you pull the handle while the vehicle is locked, do the 2 golden color LED's in the rear view mirror that shine on the console light up ?)

Johnny

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@CUE99T

Please see my EDIT to post number 10.

Johnny

 

Afternoon.

ok so here are some of my findings. I think the picture will tell the story. It looks like it has no match for the working valet key insides and when opened found it’s a 3 button circuit board as you suspected Johnny so I’ve swapped them over now and my boot can be opened by the 3 button master which in turn now renders the valet key not working. It will obviously open the car but how it got a useless circuit board inside the key I fob im not sure. It won’t really do what a valet key is supposed to do but it’s a backup for being locked out of it maybe for now.

 

Hey @Johnny Hotspur GT , just coming back to this. See pic attached. (Had a mix of T20/T30 Torx but fairly easy to take thee door card off, so will do stereo speakers soon I reckon, or at least clean up the connectors as I think I have a short or bad ground in passenger door.

Looked like all the cables were connected (See pic attached). I've not taken the door handles off. Is that still relevant? I deffo get nothing from my little black button.

I have VCDS now with the Hex-V2 so do I check anything in that?

Did anyone do a post about using the HexV2 in general and what good things are useful to check. Do we have a Wiki for it? I seem to have a few errors but nothing complex that I can't either check or have a local garage fix for me. How do you do a clear of all the data so I can get it to show any live errors if I take the car out a drive? Can you do a video? Your other one was great for me to change the dash language so thanks for that!!