Maintaining/keeping my E46 ///M
#1
04-20-2008, 05:52 PM
Maintaining/keeping my E46 ///M
Hey gang,
I have an 02 M3 and she's showing her age clocking at ~76K miles. I'm desperately wanting to keep the car and drive her to the ground, so to speak. So my question is how long could I keep the car running, realistically? How much would that cost? Is it better to get rid at certain miles and just simply buy a new car (that new 4 door ///M doesn't look half bad).
My initial thought was that I would switch when it hits 100k miles, however I like that car too much and want to keep it running for as long as I can, but I really have no clue what the maintenance would be like. I guess I'm asking about something that hasn't happened yet, but it's still a valid question I hope.
Oh, it is my only car at the moment. I had even thought about getting a daily driver to preserve the miles on this car, but the next thing I know, it got up to ~70K and has become my very enjoyable daily driver.
I have an 02 M3 and she's showing her age clocking at ~76K miles. I'm desperately wanting to keep the car and drive her to the ground, so to speak. So my question is how long could I keep the car running, realistically? How much would that cost? Is it better to get rid at certain miles and just simply buy a new car (that new 4 door ///M doesn't look half bad).
My initial thought was that I would switch when it hits 100k miles, however I like that car too much and want to keep it running for as long as I can, but I really have no clue what the maintenance would be like. I guess I'm asking about something that hasn't happened yet, but it's still a valid question I hope.
Oh, it is my only car at the moment. I had even thought about getting a daily driver to preserve the miles on this car, but the next thing I know, it got up to ~70K and has become my very enjoyable daily driver.
#3
04-21-2008, 01:29 PM
This is not directed at you, but I don't understand the rationale people use when it comes to keeping a car vs. getting a new one (when money IS an object).
I knew a doctor that had just finished paying off a 330 bmw. The next month it needed $600 worth of maintenance, so while at BMW, he traded it in for a 'new' 323 as long as they could get his payments the same as they were on the 330. So yeah, he got a newer car, but a lesser model. I don't understand why he got a new car payment to avoid a $600 repair. The 330 only had about 50-60k on it, if I remember correctly. His rationale was "I don't want to deal with repairs". I know that repairs are a pain, but he thought the fact that the car needed a repair meant that the car was now somehow 'unreliable'.
He had JUST gotten rid of a car payment. Nada, zip. Then got faced with a $600 repair where his solution was to get another car payment for a few years. Doesn't make sense financially when the car runs fine. Even though he was a Dr., he would rather NOT have gotten a new car payment.
That said, I have an 11 year old M3 that puts a smile on my face and enjoy driving every day (only car). Yeah, I have put money into it for repairs/maintenance and usually upgrading parts along the way. But I have spent a LOT less money than if I had gotten a new car payment every time I started needing repairs. I have replaced pretty much every bushing and moving part on the car (water pump, pwr steering pump, tranny, clutch, etc.) except the engine. I bought the car with 79k on it and didn't think twice about it. It was a one-owner, all records car, from a BMW driving instructor that had 3 M3's (e30 racecar, e36, and at the time a brand new E46). The mileage didn't scare me one bit. I knew the car was well maintained, and that I planned on 'driving it into the ground' or eventually making it a dedicated track car.
If what you say is true, that you really like the car and WANT to 'drive it into the ground', then you should keep it.
With today's synthetic lubricants, 100,000 miles is nothing. If you take care of the car, you can EASILY see 200-300k out of these cars. Yeah, you might have some 'expensive' repairs in there (tranny, clutch, SMG, etc.), but they are much less than having a 'new' car payment. Even with an M3, you will NOT have repairs that will be more expensive than a years worth of car payments (assuming 500-700 payments...and huge repairs usually only come around every few years if at all).
Cars are machines where parts wear out and need to be replaced. Take the money you are saving by NOT having a car payment and set aside some of it when you do need to make repairs. When you do have repairs, upgrade the part or modify the car at that time. It will maintain your interest in the car, and each time the car will usually 'drive like new'.
Just my 2 cents, and for people that have budgets. If you have sig's like some members of this forum with multiple lambo's, ferrari's, 911's, etc., then this rationale doesn't apply.
SoCal
I knew a doctor that had just finished paying off a 330 bmw. The next month it needed $600 worth of maintenance, so while at BMW, he traded it in for a 'new' 323 as long as they could get his payments the same as they were on the 330. So yeah, he got a newer car, but a lesser model. I don't understand why he got a new car payment to avoid a $600 repair. The 330 only had about 50-60k on it, if I remember correctly. His rationale was "I don't want to deal with repairs". I know that repairs are a pain, but he thought the fact that the car needed a repair meant that the car was now somehow 'unreliable'.
He had JUST gotten rid of a car payment. Nada, zip. Then got faced with a $600 repair where his solution was to get another car payment for a few years. Doesn't make sense financially when the car runs fine. Even though he was a Dr., he would rather NOT have gotten a new car payment.
That said, I have an 11 year old M3 that puts a smile on my face and enjoy driving every day (only car). Yeah, I have put money into it for repairs/maintenance and usually upgrading parts along the way. But I have spent a LOT less money than if I had gotten a new car payment every time I started needing repairs. I have replaced pretty much every bushing and moving part on the car (water pump, pwr steering pump, tranny, clutch, etc.) except the engine. I bought the car with 79k on it and didn't think twice about it. It was a one-owner, all records car, from a BMW driving instructor that had 3 M3's (e30 racecar, e36, and at the time a brand new E46). The mileage didn't scare me one bit. I knew the car was well maintained, and that I planned on 'driving it into the ground' or eventually making it a dedicated track car.
If what you say is true, that you really like the car and WANT to 'drive it into the ground', then you should keep it.
With today's synthetic lubricants, 100,000 miles is nothing. If you take care of the car, you can EASILY see 200-300k out of these cars. Yeah, you might have some 'expensive' repairs in there (tranny, clutch, SMG, etc.), but they are much less than having a 'new' car payment. Even with an M3, you will NOT have repairs that will be more expensive than a years worth of car payments (assuming 500-700 payments...and huge repairs usually only come around every few years if at all).
Cars are machines where parts wear out and need to be replaced. Take the money you are saving by NOT having a car payment and set aside some of it when you do need to make repairs. When you do have repairs, upgrade the part or modify the car at that time. It will maintain your interest in the car, and each time the car will usually 'drive like new'.
Just my 2 cents, and for people that have budgets. If you have sig's like some members of this forum with multiple lambo's, ferrari's, 911's, etc., then this rationale doesn't apply.
SoCal
#4
04-21-2008, 04:12 PM
This is not directed at you, but I don't understand the rationale people use when it comes to keeping a car vs. getting a new one (when money IS an object).
I knew a doctor that had just finished paying off a 330 bmw. The next month it needed $600 worth of maintenance, so while at BMW, he traded it in for a 'new' 323 as long as they could get his payments the same as they were on the 330. So yeah, he got a newer car, but a lesser model. I don't understand why he got a new car payment to avoid a $600 repair. The 330 only had about 50-60k on it, if I remember correctly. His rationale was "I don't want to deal with repairs". I know that repairs are a pain, but he thought the fact that the car needed a repair meant that the car was now somehow 'unreliable'.
He had JUST gotten rid of a car payment. Nada, zip. Then got faced with a $600 repair where his solution was to get another car payment for a few years. Doesn't make sense financially when the car runs fine. Even though he was a Dr., he would rather NOT have gotten a new car payment.
That said, I have an 11 year old M3 that puts a smile on my face and enjoy driving every day (only car). Yeah, I have put money into it for repairs/maintenance and usually upgrading parts along the way. But I have spent a LOT less money than if I had gotten a new car payment every time I started needing repairs. I have replaced pretty much every bushing and moving part on the car (water pump, pwr steering pump, tranny, clutch, etc.) except the engine. I bought the car with 79k on it and didn't think twice about it. It was a one-owner, all records car, from a BMW driving instructor that had 3 M3's (e30 racecar, e36, and at the time a brand new E46). The mileage didn't scare me one bit. I knew the car was well maintained, and that I planned on 'driving it into the ground' or eventually making it a dedicated track car.
If what you say is true, that you really like the car and WANT to 'drive it into the ground', then you should keep it.
With today's synthetic lubricants, 100,000 miles is nothing. If you take care of the car, you can EASILY see 200-300k out of these cars. Yeah, you might have some 'expensive' repairs in there (tranny, clutch, SMG, etc.), but they are much less than having a 'new' car payment. Even with an M3, you will NOT have repairs that will be more expensive than a years worth of car payments (assuming 500-700 payments...and huge repairs usually only come around every few years if at all).
Cars are machines where parts wear out and need to be replaced. Take the money you are saving by NOT having a car payment and set aside some of it when you do need to make repairs. When you do have repairs, upgrade the part or modify the car at that time. It will maintain your interest in the car, and each time the car will usually 'drive like new'.
Just my 2 cents, and for people that have budgets. If you have sig's like some members of this forum with multiple lambo's, ferrari's, 911's, etc., then this rationale doesn't apply.
SoCal
I knew a doctor that had just finished paying off a 330 bmw. The next month it needed $600 worth of maintenance, so while at BMW, he traded it in for a 'new' 323 as long as they could get his payments the same as they were on the 330. So yeah, he got a newer car, but a lesser model. I don't understand why he got a new car payment to avoid a $600 repair. The 330 only had about 50-60k on it, if I remember correctly. His rationale was "I don't want to deal with repairs". I know that repairs are a pain, but he thought the fact that the car needed a repair meant that the car was now somehow 'unreliable'.
He had JUST gotten rid of a car payment. Nada, zip. Then got faced with a $600 repair where his solution was to get another car payment for a few years. Doesn't make sense financially when the car runs fine. Even though he was a Dr., he would rather NOT have gotten a new car payment.
That said, I have an 11 year old M3 that puts a smile on my face and enjoy driving every day (only car). Yeah, I have put money into it for repairs/maintenance and usually upgrading parts along the way. But I have spent a LOT less money than if I had gotten a new car payment every time I started needing repairs. I have replaced pretty much every bushing and moving part on the car (water pump, pwr steering pump, tranny, clutch, etc.) except the engine. I bought the car with 79k on it and didn't think twice about it. It was a one-owner, all records car, from a BMW driving instructor that had 3 M3's (e30 racecar, e36, and at the time a brand new E46). The mileage didn't scare me one bit. I knew the car was well maintained, and that I planned on 'driving it into the ground' or eventually making it a dedicated track car.
If what you say is true, that you really like the car and WANT to 'drive it into the ground', then you should keep it.
With today's synthetic lubricants, 100,000 miles is nothing. If you take care of the car, you can EASILY see 200-300k out of these cars. Yeah, you might have some 'expensive' repairs in there (tranny, clutch, SMG, etc.), but they are much less than having a 'new' car payment. Even with an M3, you will NOT have repairs that will be more expensive than a years worth of car payments (assuming 500-700 payments...and huge repairs usually only come around every few years if at all).
Cars are machines where parts wear out and need to be replaced. Take the money you are saving by NOT having a car payment and set aside some of it when you do need to make repairs. When you do have repairs, upgrade the part or modify the car at that time. It will maintain your interest in the car, and each time the car will usually 'drive like new'.
Just my 2 cents, and for people that have budgets. If you have sig's like some members of this forum with multiple lambo's, ferrari's, 911's, etc., then this rationale doesn't apply.
SoCal
Agreed, I've had my '03 A4 since new and plan on driving it to the ground. It's been a pleasure to drive and it's been my learning guide for the past 5 years. I learned to do a lot of maintenance/upgrades using this car as a template and gave me the technical fortitude to work on my other projects and toys.
It doesn't hurt that i paid it off within a year, but hell, that just frees up money for other depreciating assets, right? haha
#6
04-21-2008, 08:35 PM
Thanks everyone for the input (especially you CJ, those caps really come in handy for someone inexperience in dealing with sarcasm)...joking joking.
Anyway, my car has been a joy to drive in. I'm honestly not sure how much each or the major repairs might be since I've only been on the free maintenance schedule. I guess my question was more along the line of if these type of car are more susceptible to breaking down than others. I wouldn't want to change the car, but if I have to keep going back and forward to get my car fixed, it can get annoying very fast. Not to mention the rental car I have to drive in the mean time.
That's all folks, thanks!
Anyway, my car has been a joy to drive in. I'm honestly not sure how much each or the major repairs might be since I've only been on the free maintenance schedule. I guess my question was more along the line of if these type of car are more susceptible to breaking down than others. I wouldn't want to change the car, but if I have to keep going back and forward to get my car fixed, it can get annoying very fast. Not to mention the rental car I have to drive in the mean time.
That's all folks, thanks!
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#8
04-21-2008, 09:09 PM
If you can find a nice independent shop or do your own repair, you are more likely to keep your car longer.
How long you want to keep your car becomes a cost and convenience issue once you start counting the repair bills and times you get stuck on the road.
Those that trade-in often value reliability and new car experience more than money. I can understand that even if that's not me.
How long you want to keep your car becomes a cost and convenience issue once you start counting the repair bills and times you get stuck on the road.
Those that trade-in often value reliability and new car experience more than money. I can understand that even if that's not me.
#9
04-21-2008, 10:07 PM
Thanks everyone for the input (especially you CJ, those caps really come in handy for someone inexperience in dealing with sarcasm)...joking joking.
Anyway, my car has been a joy to drive in. I'm honestly not sure how much each or the major repairs might be since I've only been on the free maintenance schedule. I guess my question was more along the line of if these type of car are more susceptible to breaking down than others. I wouldn't want to change the car, but if I have to keep going back and forward to get my car fixed, it can get annoying very fast. Not to mention the rental car I have to drive in the mean time.
That's all folks, thanks!
Anyway, my car has been a joy to drive in. I'm honestly not sure how much each or the major repairs might be since I've only been on the free maintenance schedule. I guess my question was more along the line of if these type of car are more susceptible to breaking down than others. I wouldn't want to change the car, but if I have to keep going back and forward to get my car fixed, it can get annoying very fast. Not to mention the rental car I have to drive in the mean time.
That's all folks, thanks!
I was just playin' with ya bud. As long as you stay on top of the preventive maintenance and treat her well, you should be fine for many, many more fun-filled miles without any major catastrophes. 
#10
04-22-2008, 10:01 AM
Of course I know you were playing CJ.
NMZ, I think my extended warranty expires sometimes in May.
djantlive, I think you hit the nail right on the head there. I would really hate for those to happen since I dont' think I could stand it if it happens to me more than twice a year.
NMZ, I think my extended warranty expires sometimes in May.
djantlive, I think you hit the nail right on the head there. I would really hate for those to happen since I dont' think I could stand it if it happens to me more than twice a year.
#11
04-22-2008, 04:41 PM
Torv,
keep it & add it to your collection. I'm in socal too. pm if u want my indy mech's contacts that i had for last 6,7yrs. He actually started out working for a BMW stealership as 1st job. His fees are lowest compared to other local shops i've checked around. The e46m3 just need reg. oil change/fluids & valve adj. every 60K. If u maintain it well, it'll last for long time. Just look at the e30m3 still running. Wait until u get a FI car then you'll know what i'm talking about.
keep it & add it to your collection. I'm in socal too. pm if u want my indy mech's contacts that i had for last 6,7yrs. He actually started out working for a BMW stealership as 1st job. His fees are lowest compared to other local shops i've checked around. The e46m3 just need reg. oil change/fluids & valve adj. every 60K. If u maintain it well, it'll last for long time. Just look at the e30m3 still running. Wait until u get a FI car then you'll know what i'm talking about.
#12
06-15-2011, 09:15 PM
Hey Torv,
What did you end up doing? If you kept the car, how was your experience? I purchased an '02 about a year ago with 76k and was surprised by $4k worth of repairs in year 1 and, with a faulty catalytic converter at 92k, am ready to give up on the car. Is there light at the end of the tunnel? Did you have good luck as your E46 passed 80, 90, 100k?
LOVE the car, but it just seems to love my indy shop more... Lemme know! And for all you guys with the (multiple) sweet cars in your garages, this probably seems like pointless whining - sorry, on a budget!
Thx
What did you end up doing? If you kept the car, how was your experience? I purchased an '02 about a year ago with 76k and was surprised by $4k worth of repairs in year 1 and, with a faulty catalytic converter at 92k, am ready to give up on the car. Is there light at the end of the tunnel? Did you have good luck as your E46 passed 80, 90, 100k?
LOVE the car, but it just seems to love my indy shop more... Lemme know! And for all you guys with the (multiple) sweet cars in your garages, this probably seems like pointless whining - sorry, on a budget!
Thx
#13
06-16-2011, 09:41 PM
Pre-purchase is key. I can find 4k worth of items wrong with the majority of these 3/4/5/6 owner cars. Why people cheap out when dropping a chunk of change, I'll never understand.
That said, I've seen E46 M3s go over 200k on a mainly stock parts, including water pumps!! Suspension items, and tires will always be in need of attention, very dependent on driving style/roads. As long as its kept up with, without allowing the "hole" to get to big you'll be fine. 70k is nothing. However, cars are unpredictable, and as such things can and will fail. SMG is a downside, as well as convertible tops, etc.
That said, I've seen E46 M3s go over 200k on a mainly stock parts, including water pumps!! Suspension items, and tires will always be in need of attention, very dependent on driving style/roads. As long as its kept up with, without allowing the "hole" to get to big you'll be fine. 70k is nothing. However, cars are unpredictable, and as such things can and will fail. SMG is a downside, as well as convertible tops, etc.
#15
07-19-2011, 06:15 PM
My 02 M3 has 43k on the clock and the belts and CPV need changing, happy to do it and part of the regularly scheduled program. The smile I get every time I'm behind the wheel is all I need.
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