My DIY single turbo Boxster journey thus far...
#61
There is one small issue though and that is the turbo is leaking oil through the turbine housing. I thought obviously Chinese cheapo ebay turbo is blown just like everyone said it would BUT upon further research it looks like Porsche and every tuner that deals with the turbo version(s) of these cars has 1 occurring theme and thats a small oil sump right after the turbo oil drain outlet and THEN the scavenge pump.
Hopefully this will end the oiling finding it's way out of the turbine housing and into the downpipe issue
Hopefully this will end the oiling finding it's way out of the turbine housing and into the downpipe issue
The problem is not likely the turbo rather the oil pressure going into the turbo. You need to run nothing larger than -3 line and then you need a restrictor between the line and the turbo with an opening of around .050 or so.
Too much volume/pressure will blow the seals on the turbo and cause oil to leak from the housing out. If you ran -4 line then guaranteed that is the problem, some really good turbos can take -3 without a restrictor. My Turbonetics 60-1 on my Talon ran with a -3 alone and was fine. Though to do that I pull off the oil releif valve which is a valve after the oil pump the bleeds pressure off back to the pan at higher RPM and I ported it (in the same manner you port a 2 stroke engine) so it opens sooner and bleeds the pressure off. The new garrett ball bearing turbos need a really small restrictor on the oil feed line so the pressure is really low, they are very sensitive to oil pressure.
I have a lot of turbo and racing experience had have been through a number of turbos on my talon (trannies too) through my racing years.
Regards,
#62
The problem is not likely the turbo rather the oil pressure going into the turbo. You need to run nothing larger than -3 line and then you need a restrictor between the line and the turbo with an opening of around .050 or so.
Too much volume/pressure will blow the seals on the turbo and cause oil to leak from the housing out. If you ran -4 line then guaranteed that is the problem, some really good turbos can take -3 without a restrictor. My Turbonetics 60-1 on my Talon ran with a -3 alone and was fine. Though to do that I pull off the oil releif valve which is a valve after the oil pump the bleeds pressure off back to the pan at higher RPM and I ported it (in the same manner you port a 2 stroke engine) so it opens sooner and bleeds the pressure off. The new garrett ball bearing turbos need a really small restrictor on the oil feed line so the pressure is really low, they are very sensitive to oil pressure.
I have a lot of turbo and racing experience had have been through a number of turbos on my talon (trannies too) through my racing years.
Regards,
Too much volume/pressure will blow the seals on the turbo and cause oil to leak from the housing out. If you ran -4 line then guaranteed that is the problem, some really good turbos can take -3 without a restrictor. My Turbonetics 60-1 on my Talon ran with a -3 alone and was fine. Though to do that I pull off the oil releif valve which is a valve after the oil pump the bleeds pressure off back to the pan at higher RPM and I ported it (in the same manner you port a 2 stroke engine) so it opens sooner and bleeds the pressure off. The new garrett ball bearing turbos need a really small restrictor on the oil feed line so the pressure is really low, they are very sensitive to oil pressure.
I have a lot of turbo and racing experience had have been through a number of turbos on my talon (trannies too) through my racing years.
Regards,
I'm currently running a 1/8th inch line, not sure how big is that compared to the -AN lines.
Update:
Well I got into testing boost and figured out just where all my exhaust leaks are and so the turbo isn't making boost for shiznits. After a few runs, wide band and motor are looking good. Not much boost is being produced and turbo is making a very unfamiliar sound, something like a high pitched spool and not the regular turbo howl. One more run and car starts producing a pretty nice sized cloud of smoke. Shut down: culprit blown turbo
However if one were to ignore all the other BS that was happening, the car actually was running fine which was my biggest worry. It idled fine, no misfires on what little boost I did make, coolant temp remained the same. Octane used was 93.xx .
I'm pretty sure these cars are running much higher oil pressures then my DSM ever did, so an oil restrictor I gotta buy now. Also I found a decent deal on a GENUINE Garrett t04e 50trim. Now I gotta bug my exhaust guy to fab up the 4 bolt flanged downpipe.
#64
Thanks Gary
I actually need to retract my statement now on the blown turbo. The cheap-o chinese turbo didn't blow, it was the AOS. The separator died a spectacular death sending basically half the oil from the crank case into the intake manifold. Man that was fun cleaning up. I also took Jim's advice and put a restrictor on the new turbo just in case.
I'm not going to purchase another AOS though, with this happening it's time to put on a breather and for go the AOS
#65
I blew my AOS prior to any forced induction.
There was a guy in FL a few years ago that had the 1st super charged 2.5 I had seen and blew his engine because a AOS blew on him.
I dont think the forced induction has anything to do with the AOS. Mine and many others have blown with out any mods to the cars.
So in other words I donr feel as if your project has anything to do with the AOS.
There was a guy in FL a few years ago that had the 1st super charged 2.5 I had seen and blew his engine because a AOS blew on him.
I dont think the forced induction has anything to do with the AOS. Mine and many others have blown with out any mods to the cars.
So in other words I donr feel as if your project has anything to do with the AOS.
#66
I blew my AOS prior to any forced induction.
There was a guy in FL a few years ago that had the 1st super charged 2.5 I had seen and blew his engine because a AOS blew on him.
I dont think the forced induction has anything to do with the AOS. Mine and many others have blown with out any mods to the cars.
So in other words I donr feel as if your project has anything to do with the AOS.
There was a guy in FL a few years ago that had the 1st super charged 2.5 I had seen and blew his engine because a AOS blew on him.
I dont think the forced induction has anything to do with the AOS. Mine and many others have blown with out any mods to the cars.
So in other words I donr feel as if your project has anything to do with the AOS.
1. I'm all for profit but this device is no BS 99% plastic+ 1 metal spring and they find a way to charge us owners $90+
2. The only thing that separates quarts and quarts of oil from getting into our intake manifold is a thin layer of plastic or latex (as thin as a regular condom).
3. Porsche didn't even bother to put some sort of filter or check valve where the diaphragm is. It's just an open spot thats just waiting for oil to get into it
Best
Joe
#67
interesting project... i subscribed on 6speed online just for it.... right now im doing something similar on my slk320 but with a supercharger instead of turbo! good luck and excited to see pics / videos!
#69
Oh yeah no doubt it was the device itself. This device has got to be one of those WTF were they thinking sort of things. I broke the thing open and discovered a few things...
1. I'm all for profit but this device is no BS 99% plastic+ 1 metal spring and they find a way to charge us owners $90+
2. The only thing that separates quarts and quarts of oil from getting into our intake manifold is a thin layer of plastic or latex (as thin as a regular condom).
3. Porsche didn't even bother to put some sort of filter or check valve where the diaphragm is. It's just an open spot thats just waiting for oil to get into it
Best
Joe
1. I'm all for profit but this device is no BS 99% plastic+ 1 metal spring and they find a way to charge us owners $90+
2. The only thing that separates quarts and quarts of oil from getting into our intake manifold is a thin layer of plastic or latex (as thin as a regular condom).
3. Porsche didn't even bother to put some sort of filter or check valve where the diaphragm is. It's just an open spot thats just waiting for oil to get into it
Best
Joe
Check an article on Caymanclub.net:
http://www.caymanclub.net/reviews/sh...duct=183&cat=4
a 2 chamber Porsche Motor Sport oil separator. (p/n 996 107 926 00) List price: $518
Not easy to install, nor cheap.
#73
OUCH!!
Listen to JP he is well respected here.
Sorry to hear about your problems brother, I know you've had issues for awhile and thats f***ing crazy. You have done allot of positive PR for that company.
Sounds like engine swap time.
Listen to JP he is well respected here.
Sorry to hear about your problems brother, I know you've had issues for awhile and thats f***ing crazy. You have done allot of positive PR for that company.
Sounds like engine swap time.
#74
Yep engine time and I will be building this one! Think Cams, heads, rings and pistons! I told you I will have the fastest Boxster by then end of the year. I am meeting with the guy who does a lot of Boxster/996 motor R&R and the things he was explaining to me about these motors is amazing. I want a BIG strong build then I will think about reinstalling the SC on strong motor with good rings and pistons. Total cost should stay under 8K. Win win!
#75
Yep engine time and I will be building this one! Think Cams, heads, rings and pistons! I told you I will have the fastest Boxster by then end of the year. I am meeting with the guy who does a lot of Boxster/996 motor R&R and the things he was explaining to me about these motors is amazing. I want a BIG strong build then I will think about reinstalling the SC on strong motor with good rings and pistons. Total cost should stay under 8K. Win win!
Bro