I also thought... Well, its about $2400 to proactively replace the IMS bearings... Heck, that pays for a chunk of the warranty AND I only guarded against IMS.

I think I'll get my 3 years of ownership, refund the warranty (about $2300 I estimate this making the warranty about $2300) and upgrade to a 2009+ Boxster.

 

I asked the "UNKNOWN" as well. They told me that was to protect themselves from people who buy the contract and within a month or two, they claim a blown motor. I specifically asked if that's why they had mentioned "AT THE CONTRACT PURCHASE DATE", and they said yes. Then I asked them if a year later (knock on wood) something happens to my motor, they said thats not a problem. As that portion was for people who purchase the contract who already knows that there is a problem with their vehicle. Not really sure where to go from there as it might just be all sales talk...

I also spoke to my Indy shop and he recommended 3 different other companies, as he used to work for Porsche as a Service Manager before he opened his own shop. I called all three, however, they all sold through brokers.

Im about 75% sure I might purchase it just asking more people about it and sleeping through it over the weekend before I make my decision.

 

Remember, they are all salesman. NOTHING he tells you means ANYTHING... it's the WORD of the contract that rules all.

I don't make a dime or lose a dime based off your decision.

There is also wording like "including but not limited to....".... tread carefully. Section Vi. E. ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PARTS INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THROTTLE BODY, BATTERY, BATTERY CABLES, SHOCK ABSORBERS, STRUTS, MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS .....

George

 

Thanks George.

I just wish Costco would sell in California. Not sure who else to go with other than those that were recommeded by my indy shop. Ill call their brokers tomorrow.

 

shifterkartrace..... how much does a shifter kart cost???? THAT looks like SO much FUN!!!!!!! I guess you need a trailer, extra tires, .... what does a full get-up cost???? Is that a $10K initial purchase and a few thousand a year to maintain???

 

My bro and I started racing over 10 years ago. The prices on used karts just for anyone to start off on is anywhere fron $1k - $6k, which is still the same today as it was when I started. Brand new karts on the other hand now start close to almost $7k. Basically, we started with used karts which we bought for about $3k back then (chassis & motor). As we progressed then we just bought barely used chassis which could be had at a deal - most of the Pro guys would only use a chassis for 2-3 races then switch to a newer chassis. We bought a 6x10 trailer from Home Depot for about $1k. Karting is not as expensive to get into. Its once you start racing with guys with deeper pockets than you is when it gets expensive. We've cut down racing a lot, from when we used to race twice a month to about maybe 3-4 times a year when the recession hit lol! Plus other things got in the way...such as family, kids and stuff (lol jk).

Maintenance isnt too much depending on the motor you use. Crashing during a race and replacing parts is much more than motor maintenance. Plus if you know how to work on your motor, you'll save a lot more than paying a motor builder. You can start karting with less than 3 grand if you do it right the first time-depending of course on which kart and motor you select.

Go to ekartingnewsdotcom as they have a lot of info.

But you're right, karting is a blast thats why I dont feel the need to track my Cayman. But the best thing that my bro and I could always say that we got out of karting was that we were able to race (more like lapped us lol) against Scotty Speed, Graham Rahal, and some of the current pro drivers when they drove karts.

Sorry for sidetracking from the original topic

 

Let me know if you do go with Direct Buy.

FWIW, I did a quick search on Direct Buy on 6speed and saw some 911 owners who have bought it and had no complaints about them yet. There was one owner who had it on all three of his P-cars. Just take it for what its worth.

 

Those are similar to the numbers I got.

I would hunt down the dude with three p-cars covered with DBW and chat with him too!

George

 

I think theres always going to be a negative review on ALL companies/ Business, it really doesnt matter which field or area. People will always feel like they've been wronged in one way or another. But from reading a few on that link, the guy with the jag mentioned that his tranny failed within a month of the purchase, and I think thats what the guy I spoke with from DB referred to as people buying the contract knowing that an issue already exists. But as long as there are mixed feelings about it both positive and negative I might take a chance.

 

Bought Fidelity platinum exclusionary 5/60 plan with $100 ded for my 07 TT with 17,000 m for $3500. Hope that helps

 

Good to know!!! How long ago was this and any complaints so far?

Thanks!

 

sounds too good to be true. i will break even with a single repair on my vehicle! wow!

 

Before I went with Direct Buy, I spoke with everyone (I believe). Nobody had the deal they did. I guess someone has to be the best offer. No one still beat the 5 yr. 2,600 deal they made me. I've seen better rates on younger Porsches than mine. That said, it's not about the rate, it's about the coverage. For me, the best coverage - for the money - is a determiner for who I go with. When you compare apples to apples, would you rather spend $10 per bushel or $5 per bushel - assuming all other things are equal? If you buy the apples from a farmer's market, you'll pay the $5. If you buy them from the grocery store you'll pay the $10. When I was looking, the same exact policy from two different reseller's was $600 different in price. Why? One wanted more profit than the other. Was the cheaper one less because "it was too good to be true"? Nope. Just cheaper.

 

+1 to that and you know what they say about things that sound too good to be true ! Have looked at the Fidelity Warranty and then Googled their history nor is any other companies including Costco's. It's not pretty but then I didn't expect it to be given peoples tendency toward complaining over complimenting. What I did learn from all my searching is that wear and tear are commonly listed as an excluded item as are any parts that failed due to wear and tear. For example, piston rings can be considered wear and tear items so should they wear and cause excessive oil blowby in your engine, you aren't covered for any resulting repairs. So wear and tear covers a lot of potential repairs that won't be covered by your warranty. Over heating is not covered nor is any damage attributable to the over heating.
Also read Consumer Reports on it and their research suggests you're better off buying cars that are rated as reliable or above than buying unreliable cars and getting extended insurance.
As for what the sales person said, better get all that in writing as nothing they say before you buy the policy can be proven after you buy it.
As for 100 K mile warranties, is that including the mileage already on the vehicle or in addition to it ?
Guess none of this matters until you need to use the insurance. It all sounds too good to be true to me.

 

That's not really how "wear and tear" works. Most, if not all, automotive policies state that all engine internally oiled parts are covered. They have to "exclude" wear and tear specifics so they are not covering wiper blades, clutch plates, brake shoes, etc. However the specifically covered items, such as internal engine components - not specifically excluded - are included. Additionally, overheating is not a mechanical failure. It is a symptom of a problem and that problem is possibly covered thereby eliminating the overheating. Every policy excludes failures caused by a driver's failure to act prudently - such as continuing to drive after a hot engine light comes on, or driving after an oil problem surfaces without stopping and having the car towed to a repair facility. Certainly most, if not all, of these policies are not for the person who wrenches on their own vehicle as non ASE-Certified mechanics are generally required to diagnose and repair problems covered by these policies. Just like your new vehicle policy.

My policy specifies what is covered. It also excludes other items. Just as has been posted by several people, including myself, one or two small repairs validates the warranty. It's not for everyone, but it works for me. Each consumer has to vet a policy they are considering. I usually go with the company that has the longest track record and best coverage, for me, in the policy. Again - question, question and question to make sure the answers you are getting are the ones you need.

I to feel a little bad for folks that pay a lot more for less coverage from a company that simply resells policies for someone else. All the extra being paid is simply profit for the reseller. I also eschew companies that resort to scare tactics such as telling you how bad another company is instead of justifying their coverage and pricing. This, again, is done mostly by resellers as they aren't selling a product, but simply brokering one solely for middle-man mark up.