What to look for in a used Cayman?
#1
What to look for in a used Cayman?
I'm considering a 2007 Cayman S. What are the items that I should be concerned about and look for in a PPI? Any specific codes to look at? What should I request from a dealership to get the most comprehensive look at its condition?
#2
All pre 2009 mid engine porsches can be hit with the IMS bearing failure. I don't know how common this was after the 986's but it's still a possibility. In the 2005-2008 models the only way to replace is to remove the engine and crack it open. So I would try to get them to tell you (assuming you haven't driven the car) if the clutch feels worn or is slipping etc... this won't indicate IMS but if the clutch was replaced already, usually people do bearing upgrade at the same time. History on the vehicle would be better. You want to get a sort of general feel for the clutch anyhow in case you are thinking of doing a replace or bearing upgrade yourself.
Also basic check for oil leaks etc..which they should do along with the general stuff like tire wear, brake pad/ brake rotor wear (get both), and interior wear etc.. Check the computer for any error codes, as well as over-revs if there are any. Check for any squeeks or rattles, battery level, and so on.
I never did this on my old boxster I had, but if you want to double the price you are paying for the PPI, you can pay for a Leak Back test of the cylinders...but I wouldn't do that unless something seems odd with the car and they recommend it, at which point I'd probably pass on the car anyhow.
Also basic check for oil leaks etc..which they should do along with the general stuff like tire wear, brake pad/ brake rotor wear (get both), and interior wear etc.. Check the computer for any error codes, as well as over-revs if there are any. Check for any squeeks or rattles, battery level, and so on.
I never did this on my old boxster I had, but if you want to double the price you are paying for the PPI, you can pay for a Leak Back test of the cylinders...but I wouldn't do that unless something seems odd with the car and they recommend it, at which point I'd probably pass on the car anyhow.
#4
Thanks - good info. This car is at a P-car dealer, so it will be a CPO. It's got a few serious dings that they say will be repaired pre-sale, and it has clear bra. Otherwise good shape, ~30K miles, interior looks perfect.
I'm a bit concerned, though, about the history of the car. I asked if they would provide the DME code print-out, and they acted as if it was a strange request, and unnecessary for a CPO car. Red flag, or just sales guys being sales guys? Is it reasonable to tell tham that I want to see the full history on the car before making an offer? Given that most PPIs would be at buyer's cost, I can see why they may balk a bit, but it would seem reasonable for the local dealer to want to "play nicely"....?
Bottom line - it's not a perfect match for what I want to begin with, so I have no problem with walking away...but it's pretty darned close, so I want to give it a fair chance.
I'm a bit concerned, though, about the history of the car. I asked if they would provide the DME code print-out, and they acted as if it was a strange request, and unnecessary for a CPO car. Red flag, or just sales guys being sales guys? Is it reasonable to tell tham that I want to see the full history on the car before making an offer? Given that most PPIs would be at buyer's cost, I can see why they may balk a bit, but it would seem reasonable for the local dealer to want to "play nicely"....?
Bottom line - it's not a perfect match for what I want to begin with, so I have no problem with walking away...but it's pretty darned close, so I want to give it a fair chance.
#5
By history I just meant vehicle history. Like if there is paperwork from prev owner(s) of work done, or if the car has been serviced at that dealer, if they can tell you what work was done, and when so you can see frequency of regular service. That's if they have that stuff. If not, then you rely on CarFax or such for just basic info, which I would check.
A few serious dings, do you know what caused them?
As for CPO and dealer sale, I didn't realize that. I would say if it was a private seller or non-porsche dealer I would take it to a porsche dealer to do the PPI. But since it is as at dealer and under warranty they effectively already did their own PPI or they wouldn't have taken the car. If it looks good, go ahead. But I -would- have the dealer give you basic info like Tire Tread wear, Brake pad Wear, time recommended to service and what that service will be/cost.
One last piece of advice especially with dings, when you see the car again, rub your finger between all the of the body panels. There are two things. 1. visually check to see if the body panels look clean and aligned well and paint colors match. and 2. all the areas where the panels go together should feel smooth to your fingers. If it is rough, it means it was repainted. Could be because of someone wanting new paint, or because of accident. If you're not sure its smooth, it probably is. If it is rough you can easily tell the diff and it should be really noticeable. You just rub your finger gently along the panel creases of both panels in the crease, one first and then the other to compare. Any panels with rough are repainted... I learned this one the hard way when I went to sell my car... :\ You should open the door and go around the door edges and also inspect the door jam area for any signs of painting or damage as well.
But again if it's CPO from a Porsche dealer you are probably fine. I would be more on the cautious side from a private seller or from a smaller independent dealer. So I'd just get basics so you know what sort of service or replacements will be coming up. And then just move forward from there if it looks good. One last rec is if you are a PCA member contact them to see if there is another member that could go with you who is familiar to provide any second opinion if you are really worried.
A few serious dings, do you know what caused them?
As for CPO and dealer sale, I didn't realize that. I would say if it was a private seller or non-porsche dealer I would take it to a porsche dealer to do the PPI. But since it is as at dealer and under warranty they effectively already did their own PPI or they wouldn't have taken the car. If it looks good, go ahead. But I -would- have the dealer give you basic info like Tire Tread wear, Brake pad Wear, time recommended to service and what that service will be/cost.
One last piece of advice especially with dings, when you see the car again, rub your finger between all the of the body panels. There are two things. 1. visually check to see if the body panels look clean and aligned well and paint colors match. and 2. all the areas where the panels go together should feel smooth to your fingers. If it is rough, it means it was repainted. Could be because of someone wanting new paint, or because of accident. If you're not sure its smooth, it probably is. If it is rough you can easily tell the diff and it should be really noticeable. You just rub your finger gently along the panel creases of both panels in the crease, one first and then the other to compare. Any panels with rough are repainted... I learned this one the hard way when I went to sell my car... :\ You should open the door and go around the door edges and also inspect the door jam area for any signs of painting or damage as well.
But again if it's CPO from a Porsche dealer you are probably fine. I would be more on the cautious side from a private seller or from a smaller independent dealer. So I'd just get basics so you know what sort of service or replacements will be coming up. And then just move forward from there if it looks good. One last rec is if you are a PCA member contact them to see if there is another member that could go with you who is familiar to provide any second opinion if you are really worried.
#6
The IMS bearing failure seems to be more related to manual transmission. My '05 Boxter had not such a problem but it experienced an oil leak from the valve cover. That was the only issue I had during eight years of ownership.
[Note: As a private seller, I provided all the maintenance records. A good seller should at least do that]
[Note: As a private seller, I provided all the maintenance records. A good seller should at least do that]
#7
This is a manual car, so it's relevant.
I'm getting the impression that IMS failure is not as much of an issue with the 3.4l engines from '06-08, but still can happen. Do I have this right?
I'm getting the impression that IMS failure is not as much of an issue with the 3.4l engines from '06-08, but still can happen. Do I have this right?
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#8
Yes, I think you are right. I wonder whether you can still search the archives of the old Porsche Pete's Boxster Board. That was where Boxster/Cayman refugees used to feel comfortable hanging around. Oh, the good old days. lol
#10
The dealership will provide you with a carfax history report at your request (most simply include the link to the report when a customer inquires about a car). The carfax will state most info you'll want to know; are they fail-safe, no but pretty thorough.
Drive the car. Since it is a CPO it should be in great shape, track straight, have new to newish tires/brake pads and the engine should be free of leaks and sound as it should.
Hopefully the dealer has a good body shop to match the panels and also do a clean job on any wheel rash.
Good luck!
Mark/Pelican Parts
Drive the car. Since it is a CPO it should be in great shape, track straight, have new to newish tires/brake pads and the engine should be free of leaks and sound as it should.
Hopefully the dealer has a good body shop to match the panels and also do a clean job on any wheel rash.
Good luck!
Mark/Pelican Parts
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#11
Request for a DME is a bit strange, I had requested one when I bought my CPO CS not long ago and they said they could do it for $100 as it's usually only reserved for the track model cars. Previous documentation for maintenance is always a good thing, I was able to find out my front pads/rotors were replaced within the last 5k miles and the waterpump as well.
#12
Are you still in the hunt or did you end up purchasing this one?
#13
Drove it and did not buy. Nice car at a fair price, but just not quite what I'm looking for. At this point, I'm thinking I may just order one; my tastes appear to run different from the run-of-the-mill.
#14
I can understand... I spent over a year before finding the car I wanted.
I will say, double check the Carfax for wreck damage, etc.
And instead of Dealer PPI... maybe try to find a good local independent shop. I got the feeling the dealer PPI was a generalized washover... and an indy would have been more in-depth... as long as they knew what they were talking about and were experienced on Porsches.
Just my 2 cents. It was important, since I flew halfway across the country to pick it up, and drive it back.
But can't complain... Tail of the Dragon was on the way. ;-)
I will say, double check the Carfax for wreck damage, etc.
And instead of Dealer PPI... maybe try to find a good local independent shop. I got the feeling the dealer PPI was a generalized washover... and an indy would have been more in-depth... as long as they knew what they were talking about and were experienced on Porsches.
Just my 2 cents. It was important, since I flew halfway across the country to pick it up, and drive it back.
But can't complain... Tail of the Dragon was on the way. ;-)
Last edited by kaiser; 11-07-2013 at 05:14 PM.
#15
So do you think you'll go the new Cayman route or continue to search for a lightly used example?
Mark/Pelican Parts
Mark/Pelican Parts
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