So here is another coolant pipe thread.

I was hoping to do a preemptive strike when the weather gets warmer, but as always nothing ever goes according to plan. The stupid lower pipe broke on my way home during snow storm. I got stuck about 1/5 miles from home. Guess I was lucky since I was able to get coolant from home, fill and drove home within 1 minute time. Can't believe that 2 inches slit (I can barely see) on that evil lower plastic tube would drain the coolant out that quickly, guess when high pressure the coolant will gush out.

Anyway, I already took everything apart and waiting to put back the new aluminum pipes. I have to add that this job was way difficult for the average car guy. I changed my brakes, rotors, air suspension on a Jag and even power steering stuffs on an Audi, but this job was way more difficult. It was not complex, just hard to work with very little room and stubborn parts. If I knew exactly what I was getting into I would have just towed it to the dealer. The plastic venting tubes were like week old cookies, super brittle. I don't think is possible to not crack the venting tubes that needed to be removed. The tube to the back of the intake manifold was also a nightmare to remove. I think thats the tube from the brake booster or something. It was suppose to be squeeze and tube will release, but that part was brittle also it didn't release. Took me a good 30 minutes yanking that out. There were other snafu that almost made me give up but I will detail it later with pictures.

My question is about the 2 rubber hose in the back (for the CTT), how the hell do you change those? There is just no room to get my hands in there or even able to see the whole connections hidden behind. I was thinking since I am here might as well do these too, but It doesn't seem like is possible. If someone has done it and has good advise I would be greatly appreciated. Very disappointing if I can't change these stupid hoses, so close but yet so far...

Thanks in advance, Lou

 

this comes in handy.... plus 20% discount..


http://www.harborfreight.com/digital...era-67979.html

cheers!

 

Lou - My guess is you mean the ones in this picture (the top rubber hoses coming from between the firewall and the back of the engine)



If those are the ones, then UGG! If you use the inspection camera that pakundo posted, you might be able to trace them down the back of the engine and then disconnect them there. BTW - I am pretty sure you can buy an inspection camera from home depot - I saw one there 2 weeks ago). Otherwise, I have not seen anyone report a failure of these hoses if that gives you any solace.

While you are at it and if you have not yet, make sure you register to throw your weight behind the class action suit which is now in it's early stages. You can do so here: https://www.smartsheet.com/b/publish...652d1240be51ad

 

Hey Lout - you have to do them. So either now, or later when they really leak. T2 did the pipes at around 100K, and now this tee at 200K. My tee was pretty crusty at the compression joints when I got it out. And the techs (Firehawk?) say definitely do them when you do the coolant pipes on the Turbos.

PM me if you want me to talk you through it. Or tow it to Sacramento and I'll help you do it... ; )

 

I do want to do them, I really do... but I'm a scare man... I picture me tearing that hose 1/2 out or even completely to shreds, but then unable to put the new hose back. In shame tow car to dealer. Make up a story about friend trying to do the job... I am gonna carefully think about this one before I rely on my limited skills to finish this T job. At this point right now I can still put everything back, hopefully.

Wish I live near you. Gladly treat you to the best steak dinner to resolve my headache, X 3

 

If it's any consolation, I also sat there an hour into it and almost gave up. Had the exact same thoughts as you - how quickly can I put it back together and tow it in. Could not believe that the stupid tee had even a remote possibility of coming out without dropping the engine. But it did - though one of the harder mechanical things I've ever done. Really big sense of accomplishment when finished. Neighbors probably wondered what the cheering was at 2:00 in the morning.

And FYI, I only replaced the tee connector, not the hoses beyond it. No clue about those, and I had not heard of needing to replace them.

I think if you take it to the dealer, you'll be probably $1000 out of pocket on labor just to get where you are now. And their tech will just grunt through it instead of you.

If you have the replacement part in hand, you know the shape and what it feels like. It drops back and down to the right slightly. As I recall, getting the hose clamps off was pretty tricky, even with the spring-loaded tool. But the real work was again, forcefully removing the tee from the pipes inserted into it. slicing the rubber up the length of the pipe worked for me, and I literally had to jam a wide flathead into the slice to pry off the fused rubber. Once i ripped a big enough piece out, I doused with some sort of lubricant and worked it off like crazy.

Not a lot of help, but click "enlarge" on these pics and you can see it sort of:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Cayenne-Turbo-S-COMPLETE-Engine-Motor-w-tranny-/260727713293?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Model%3ACayenne%7CSubmodel%3ATurbo&hash=item 3cb4952e0d

I'll try to attach an image - not the exact same part, but best I can find in 5 mins with Google. You're literally going to want to slice into the curve of the "S", from the end to close to the metal compression bands (which is where it leaks, BTW). Sharp blade, held in your fingers... with glove on to keep from slicing fingers!


(The alternative is to drive it hard with the clamps off, until the pressure pops it off... wish I had thought of that when i did mine)