So I was working on my headlight (corner light was out). The light kept off for a while. Decided to crank out the durametric.
Scanned for errors and noticed that there is a turbo charger underboost error. Did not recall the number but said that underboost condition observed.
Will scan for code number but wanted to know where do I start. Never PDd turbos before. Easy? Hard on this car?
What components are involved checking this?

Attached is a pic of the error in Durametric:
Error: P2B01

Next clip is a vid of the boost pressure I see when in accerleration (WOT) from stop and from rilling 55mph, to show the boost needle vs speed/rpm. Hope someone can comment if normal....does not feel like it since I was able to see the full .8 bar on the needle from what I remember. Given the error, there is something amiss for sure.

Click Here for Vid

Here are my questions:
1. From the did, pic and info, do I have a problem that needs looking into?
2. Where do I start now? Have of done any turbo PD, so want to understand where the areas of interest/possible issues are first.
3. Provided that there is something in need of replace, what would be parts/part numbers that would be first candidates to change?
4. Can someone show me what areas of interest are from a diagram, etc? Would like to know better where in car these parts are and how difficult they are to access (for example, to verify hoses, seals, tubes - which ones and where are they to verify)?

Appreciate any help you can give.


UPDATE (May 26):
WTF -
I decided to go to Durametric and download/install their latest version of the Durametric SW.
My old one was v.6.2.1.2 Beta from June 2012. The latest version I installed today is v.6.3.1.7 Official Release.

After I connected the car, noticed that I was not getting the underboost error.
Cleared the error from this module. Tried again, same, no errors at all.
Cleared ALL faults from all modules.
Went for a drive and out of the community, with PSM off just floored it to see if the error will come back.
On the way back home, did same - hard acceleration.
When came home, connected again to the newest Durametric. NO FAULTS. No turbo charger fault of any kind.

So I am stumped. Could it be the sw was using wrong parameters?
Based on the vid, is it expected to see boot at this level? I am no longer 100% confident that I saw .8 bar on boost gauge, but I think it could be due to what I am observing.
Those of you in the know, please let me know your views. THANKS!!

 

Can someone help and assist in pinpoint area (parts) that I would need to make sure are plugged in right and not leaking air? Here are some pages with parts, which I hope are a part of the picture...

 

Ciaka,

First of all, I just wanted to say that finding a vacuum leak (if you have one) is one of the most difficult things to get sorted out on a turbo charged car due to all the hoses. Literally any of the connections could be the culprit or even cracked hoses. So unless you get lucky, this can be a really frustrating issue to DIY. So with that said, I would recommend most people take it to a good indy.

If you are like me and very determined to resolve it yourself, I am sure you can with a lot of patience. I recommend that you look into building a " intake pressure tester adapter" that would connect into the intake tube to pressure the system to around 1 bar (16 - 18 psi) to check for air leaks. There are plenty of DIYs on the VW and Audi boards since they also have a lot of turbo charged applications. Note you will need atleast 1 adapter and 1 "plug" since you have two intake tracts to make sure it properly pressurizes. Here is an example:



This will be a good start for you.

 

I may be determined like you but need some guidance to get the basics down so that when I poke my hands into there, I know exactly what I am touching and how it can be affected.

Questions:

1. Can you tell me of the 3 diagrams I posted, which are in the area that can be affected (all of them? which one to start with)?
2. Should I just start at the intake distributor (Part #10 on first diagram - first from left) and disconnect and verify fit for each component? That would be before doing any vacuum leak check (pressurized).

My plan was to:

1. Go in there, and disconnect parts 10, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 and clean and put them back in to make sure they are nice and snug.
Then,
2. Check 21, 22, 23, 24 for same.
Then, from diagram 2 (middle one)
3. Check 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26 for same,
Then, do similar with parts in diagram 3 (right one), checking connections for intercoolers.
Then, if all connections are checked, start doing pressure testing (If I choose to go this way, what hoses need to be involved - plugged and which need to be connected to pressure system)?

Is this approach even possible? Are these parts very hard to access? What would be a better way to go about it?

I took a brief look (without taking anything apart), just flashlight, and noticed that parts in diagram 3 (right), at part 38, when I moved the plastic tube coming out of intake distributor - the flattened, angled down plastic tube on driver side, labeled 13 on that diagram), when I moved it with my hand, the screw I could see on top of it, seemed to shift slightly, giving me indications that the screw may be not tight, helping a leak to come out.

Recently checked some videos I managed to shoot before I noticed boost leak, that under WOT, I was hitting .8 which of course was decreasing as gearing changed, but I was hitting it.
Now, hitting .6 under WOT. Is that a big leak or a small leak? Would the above be a possibility for the cause, based on what I saw and the symptoms I see?

Again, I am capable in checking this, but would need some help in setting direction, etc. Thanks again.

Many questions here, but hope you fine folks on here can chime in and set me straight.

 

Focus on the 2nd and 3rd diagrams, the first one is for a non-turbo model. I'm chasing down some sort of air leak between the MAF and the TB myself right now, but didn't have any time to focus on it this past weekend.

 

See? Already saved me some time, probably a couple hours worth of time. Tons of thanks already. Do you have similar symptoms?

I have been reading that some observe leaks from diverter valves.
Trying to see where the common areas of issues are. Not sure where the DVs are to check (and if I do, how would I check they work)?