My CTT after a lengthy interior and exterior top notch detail.!!! W O W
#16
02-19-2012, 12:28 PM
Looks great. Nice garage to work in which helps a lot. It's looking worthy of your precious back seat cargos.
Acetone scares me though. I wouldn't think of using it on leather unless it had some substance that only acetone could dissolve. Which Sonax product? I see they have cloths, foam, Xtreme foam, wipes.
Acetone scares me though. I wouldn't think of using it on leather unless it had some substance that only acetone could dissolve. Which Sonax product? I see they have cloths, foam, Xtreme foam, wipes.
#17
02-19-2012, 12:32 PM
Regarding the jeans, George from Leatherique suggested the following:
"If you wear alot of jeans, chinos, or course fabrics I would suggest a small Klear Kote for the high wear bolster to keep it protected. We've had quite a bit of problem with dye transfer from the cheaper denims from china transfering indigo dye onto light leather. This permanent transfer is augmented by heated seats."
here's the link for Klear Kote: http://leatherique.org/detail.aspx?ID=18
"If you wear alot of jeans, chinos, or course fabrics I would suggest a small Klear Kote for the high wear bolster to keep it protected. We've had quite a bit of problem with dye transfer from the cheaper denims from china transfering indigo dye onto light leather. This permanent transfer is augmented by heated seats."
here's the link for Klear Kote: http://leatherique.org/detail.aspx?ID=18
that's why I referenced my steps. klear kote is in there. thanks for the info as well.
Those folks at leatheriq know me well. I order plenty from them from the prepping agent for dye, the custom dye itself, gallons of prestine clean, and a few of rejuvinator.
all jeans, cheap or expensive, will transfer onto CREAM.
believe me I know. I wear regularly, $40.00 jeans, and then some over $600.00. All are cheap and transfer, some maybe worse than others.
jeans are blue, seats are cream, it's inevitable.
#19
02-19-2012, 02:54 PM
It may protect a bit. Adds a wax type protectant over the dye.
But it also has a bit if a shine to it.
The bottle is just one of their normal bottles, the liquid looks like a watered down milk.
Applied with a brush as well, probably a sprayer would be best again.
But it also has a bit if a shine to it.
The bottle is just one of their normal bottles, the liquid looks like a watered down milk.
Applied with a brush as well, probably a sprayer would be best again.
#20
02-19-2012, 04:34 PM
Leatheriq cleaner and conditioner and sonax
Small bristle leather scrub as well as some acetone and some color matched dye on the high driver bolster from my jean marks.
Someone mentioned that cheap jeans leave behind dye coloring.
My levi's actually leave LESS dye which I love.
It's my rock and republics, sevens, or true religions that are $300/pair that leave behind terrible dye, even after one sit in and get out....
Oh well. I don't really care as long as I can always clean and condition and dye if necessary and still having it look brand new. It's when, I can't restore and it starts to look dated that I will be pissed, and probably just sell the car
But if after 17,000 miles on CREAM of I'm good so far with my knowledge of caring for leather, I think I'll be okay in time....
Small bristle leather scrub as well as some acetone and some color matched dye on the high driver bolster from my jean marks.
Someone mentioned that cheap jeans leave behind dye coloring.
My levi's actually leave LESS dye which I love.
It's my rock and republics, sevens, or true religions that are $300/pair that leave behind terrible dye, even after one sit in and get out....
Oh well. I don't really care as long as I can always clean and condition and dye if necessary and still having it look brand new. It's when, I can't restore and it starts to look dated that I will be pissed, and probably just sell the car
But if after 17,000 miles on CREAM of I'm good so far with my knowledge of caring for leather, I think I'll be okay in time....
Great info; thanks JACE.
#24
02-20-2012, 09:41 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Virginia Beach
Age: 55
Posts: 410
Rep Power: 38 
Jace - noticed you had the PCCB option and was curious if you feel that option is worth it? Any noise out of them? Are they expected to last longer that the standard Big Red brakes?
#25
02-20-2012, 09:57 AM
I will get ceremics on next car that has it as an option to purchase.
NO BREAK DUST, worth it.
should last longer than regular turbo breaks, if I don't get a rock or something in them. which in that case will COST A WHOLE LOT MORE to replace.
some minor squeaking when cold, but a non issue.
The main difference is they are 1/2 the weight of that of regular breaks! and there is NO fade.
they can take something like a couple thousand degrees in heat before any issues in breakdown.
more pedal sensitivity with ceramics.
they might be a little softer for the 1st couple stops when cold, but when I compare to the red breaks I previously had on my old cayenne, these are worth every penny to me.
NO BREAK DUST, worth it.
should last longer than regular turbo breaks, if I don't get a rock or something in them.
which in that case will COST A WHOLE LOT MORE to replace.some minor squeaking when cold, but a non issue.
The main difference is they are 1/2 the weight of that of regular breaks! and there is NO fade.
they can take something like a couple thousand degrees in heat before any issues in breakdown.
more pedal sensitivity with ceramics.
they might be a little softer for the 1st couple stops when cold, but when I compare to the red breaks I previously had on my old cayenne, these are worth every penny to me.
#26
02-20-2012, 10:24 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Virginia Beach
Age: 55
Posts: 410
Rep Power: 38
Thanks! The no brake dust is definelty worth it. It will be interesting to know how long they last and the associated cost to replace when compared to the Reds. I know I paid something close to 2k for the brakes to be done (front and rear) on the old CTT. Fronts would last for roughly 20-25k miles.
#27
02-20-2012, 10:50 AM
the ceramics are $2500-$3000 PER rotor if you need them replaced.
but a friend at the alabama test track said they should last the life of the car for the amount we drive them.
I put about 17,000 miles per year.
For ME, I am sure they will last the length of time I keep my cars...
but a friend at the alabama test track said they should last the life of the car for the amount we drive them.
I put about 17,000 miles per year.
For ME, I am sure they will last the length of time I keep my cars...
#29
02-21-2012, 11:46 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tampa Bay Area, FL
Age: 41
Posts: 257
Rep Power: 39 
#30
02-21-2012, 03:14 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Eastern Washington.
Posts: 1,656
Rep Power: 103
Nothing but the best would work for Jace and thats what we see in full display be it the vehicle or its upkeep/detailing. Well done my friend. BTW as **** as I am, I am still having some issues with the leather being damaged on the exact spot that you pointed out with your finger.